Hi all -
Going back together with the 64. Original config (how I got it anyway) I don't find any circuit breaker and the "junction block" was nothing more than a bolt and nut! The wiring digram I have isn't quite matching the wiring harness I took out of the truck. Question(s) please:

1) This is an original generator with voltage regulator truck. It had no ammeter just a "GEN" light. I am almost definitely going to put a simple "1-wire" alternator in the truck, and I've changed the dash with new gauges which includes a voltage gauge - not ammeter. So, do I wire with a circuit breaker to the volt gauge? Probably good idea?

2) Whats with the junction block? Anyone have a pic of that or is it just a schematic and the "bolt and nut" is actually the junction block?

Thanks as always.

 

Cool looking dash cluster!! Diag. out of 65 wiring manual: Not an authority on automotive electrical circuitry, initially installed a 70 amp fuse block in the 65. If decide to go this route, suggest check with whether going with a fuse block with a less amp rating would be best?? Should have a few member's responding with pic's, there are a few variations in running the circuit, defiantly need to do the research!!

Member's have posted pic's using the 'junction' block, as opposed to the 'fuse block' and noted they have not has any electrical issues. When I installed the ALT circuit I did not have a clue, thought at the time best to fuse the circuit? Sorry, not a good pic. of the fuse block, it's the large black wiring coming off the alternator and connects to 1 side of the fuse block and the other side of the fuse block runs to the gauge, believe diag. is different than how I ran the fused circuit?

 

Thanks Dave. I read some of your posts from 2014 on same subject. My OEM harness is not in too bad of shape so I am re0using it, but going through it carefully as PO's added this or that here and there. So I am making sure any old wounds are corrected which is where my curiosity on the terminal or junction block and 70 amp breaker came in. I just don't have either one, and I've yet to see anyone with a 64 or older with a generator post theirs? I've posted the wiring as shown by Autometer for a voltmeter and also for ammeter. To me, the simplicity of the voltmeter which (to me) shows I've got a working charging system @ 13.8 volts, or I don't. Autometer says 18ga wire for the voltmeter, pick it up off the IGN switch (On Postiion) and that's it. For the Ammeter they want 10ga wiring and caution on fusible link. I do like the idea of a fusible link honestly, but I think I would put it between the system voltage supply and fuse block / ignition switch to keep from melting inside wiring...? Anyone else have any past experience with 64 and older? Trucks that is....(-:

 

Installed the gauge over 15 years ago with similar concerns regarding the amount of amps passing thru the gauge, thus decided to go with the 'fused block', so far, has not presented any problem? Believe reproduction volt gauges are now available same/similar to the original?

Book marked article quite some time after installing the gauge:

A voltmeter measures electrical system "pressure" in volts. Just like a fuel pressure gauge, a voltmeter only needs to tap into a circuit--the electricity does not have to go through the gauge itself. Voltmeter installation is easy, quick, and safe.

The alternator output used to recharge the battery must first route through the ammeter. This requires a heavy gauge cable and presents a possible fire hazard. The ammeter itself must be able to handle the current flow and have a higher current rating than the alternator's maximum rated output. This might be worth the hassle if the ammeter produced reliable information, but it can only measure the amount of current output to the battery for recharging purposes

 

Right on, thanks Dave. All great info and now helps me better with which way to go. As far as the "junction block", any ideas on repro units? To me I'd rather do a clean junction / terminal block mounted to firewall than a bolt and nut holding ring terminals together (my solenoid is on firewall not fender).

 

Posting pic as example only: similar to the fuse block installed in the 65 purchased from local NAPA auto parts store, should have mounting bracket. They come in a variety of flavors, suggest purchase block that is best for you application. I placed the fuse block on the inner fender where I could run the wires for the ALT and Electronic Ignition in a single flex harness.

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If decide to go with the Volt gauge I do not believe a 'fuse' or 'junction' block will be necessary, seem to recall requires tapping into a circuit within few inches of the volt gauge? As noted, not an authority of automobile circuity; hopefully, more knowledgeable members will chime in?