So the backstory to all of this:
In mid August my 89 F250 with a 351 started having some stalling issues which has progressively gotten worse. Now it's not really driveable. I had to have it towed to the shop last week cuz I cooked the starter trying to start it at AutoZone where I went to have any codes read. That cost me $242 just to get the starter done. So I'm back to square one. Below is a pic of the codes they found. I figured it was a fuel problem. It would normally start up 100% the first time. I'd be driving it and it would just cut out with no warning. Sometimes while accelerating and sometimes just idling. I can hear the fuel pump turn on when I turn the key. The shop that didnthe starter said it's stalling cuz of a leak in the intake manifold. And said I'd might has well change all of those other items listed in that middle section in the pic if I'm going to have it torn down that far. I would think if there was a manifold leak it would throw a code regarding too lean or something. I've been trying to find a good video or write up on doing the intake manifold gasket but there's nothing real specific. Does anyone know of a write up or video? And does this sound like something an intake manifold leak would cause?? I just don't have $800 to put into this truck. The truck has 159k on it but up till August was completely 100% dependable.

 

Code 14:
Continuous Memory code
Ignition profile pickup (PIP) circuit failure.

There's the stalling issue. I'm betting it's failing and its needs replaced.

 

I'll sell ya a set of wires for 100, save ya 14 bucks.

How well do you know the people at that shop? 160 bucks for a starter? 2 hours for a brake booster?? 5 hours for intake and valve cover gaskets?!?

 

They used to be just a small shop. Now they have a huge 8 lift garage. They own a tire shop, quick lube oil change and an automatic car wash. They've become kind of ridiculous. I priced starters on Rockauto for a third of what they charged me. But I just wanted the thing done and back to me. I want to do the job myself but I'm nervous should I break a bolt off or something. How long should a shop take to do the valve and intake gaskets? It will probably take me a week lol.

 

Code 14 (CM): PIP circuit failure

As previously noted the PIP signal is dropping out.


Code 33 (CM): EGR valve opening not detected


Code 87 (CM): Primary fuel pump circuit failure
Code 96 (CM): Fuel Pump circuit open - battery to EEC processor

Both indicate an issue with the fuel pump circuit while the truck is running. Could be a bad fuel pump relay, inertia switch, tank selection switch or other open circuit issue.

You have two issues to troubleshoot. Spark and fuel.

 

Valve cover gaskets...about an hour. Intake gaskets...add another 1-2 hours labor tops.

 

Am I reading this right? Just upper intake gasket is quoted?

You can buy all those parts substantially cheaper almost anywhere, especially if you order them online from rock auto or similar. Have any friends with some tools? YouTube university is full of great tutorials.

 

You can get the plug wires from autonation ford white bear lake for $35 (last time I checked).

 

You can do most of those things yourself, at least I would. The only shop I've ever had do work on any vehicle I've ever owned are tires, exhaust and some welding. Get a couple good manuals, watch a couple YouTube videos if you need and get your hands greasy ��

 

I can totally relate. My truck is at a shop right now because I couldn't figure out what's wrong with it. The prices they quoted you are about the same as the ones around my area. I've already put A LOT of time & money into this truck this year. I would try to do as many of those repairs myself as I can, & have a shop do what I can't. That still costs a lot of money though, I know, paying for another tow or 2, plus you still have to pay them for all the diagnostic stuff they've done. Best wishes & good luck.

 

I was told by the previous owner that the rear tank fuel pump was bad. Could the fuel pump codes be due to that? I've never even heard of that PIP thing. From some research it sounds like it's in the distributor?? Would the entire distributor need replaced?

 

I don't mean to come across as harsh, but this is one of those "fish or cut bait" moments. (Or come to Jesus, for that matter)

With the age of your truck, the system/parts failures & amounts of money for repairs are never going to stop completely or go down. Rust never sleeps & entropy don't quit.

You've got to resign yourself to either taking on as much as you personally have skills, tools & location to work with or paying the ever increasing cost of having someone to do it for you. Understand also that when another person or company does work & it doesn't solve your problem, there is not going to be a refund or a fix for free. And that's assuming those people are competent to work on a near 30 year old truck in the first place.

I sincerely wish you the best in your endeavor.

 

Get your truck home and have someone else look at it. That ticket is BS. They're trying to get you for all they can it looks like. Just like the lube shops do, They try to sell you crap you don't even need or have no business being around. If you have a stall out condition, What does your brakes have to do with it? Or your tires? Even your battery? Get her home and ask around for a reputable shop. Places like that is what makes the good ones look bad.

 

Scndsin has the right idea. Our trucks are ancient and for the most part, the old geezers who knew everything about working on these trucks are not working 40 hrs a week anymore. If you go in for service you will encounter nothing but newer techs (like myself) who have been trained on nothing but new model lines and stare at code readers all day (I'm not like that, I dig the old stuff ). So with all that said, if you want to keep your truck but don't want to pay a ****-ton of money to keep it afloat, then learn about your truck and start fixing stuff on your own. We're here to back you up.

 

Older is better anyway. Simplicity is the key to longevity. Especially Diesels now.....