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If the alternator had a direct short to ground with that many amps...I'm wondering if it is messed up and causing your problems?
Wow, you were lucky.
"see if Craftsman would exchange it"
Great pics
I just wish I could find it. I don't have any clue. The check valves in the HPOP is the only thing I could think of. But it makes a whole lot of no sense to me.
You need to check the alternator for ac voltage output. The "full wave bridge rectifier" inside the alternator cannot handle the kind of current that melted that screwdriver. I would bet some of the 6 diodes are no longer acting like diodes, i.e. they are allowing alternating current to flow into a direct current system that is not designed for it. Find a multimeter and use the A.C. scale to check from a positive terminal to ground. Report back! You may have damaged the wire windings inside the alternator or blown out the voltage regulator which cannot handle the surges of voltage change.
Also, if that were my truck, I would not drive it until that alt. is checked out or replaced. You can fry all the important electronics with an alt. putting out unregulated voltage, or AC voltage.
You need to check the alternator for ac voltage output. The "full wave bridge rectifier" inside the alternator cannot handle the kind of current that melted that screwdriver. I would bet some of the 6 diodes are no longer acting like diodes, i.e. they are allowing alternating current to flow into a direct current system that is not designed for it. Find a multimeter and use the A.C. scale to check from a positive terminal to ground. Report back! You may have damaged the wire windings inside the alternator or blown out the voltage regulator which cannot handle the surges of voltage change.
So I am checking from the positive cable off the alternator to negative battery post using a/c setting instead of d/c? Just making sure I am testing it right.
I did test from the negative battery cable to the cable coming of the alternator in the d/c setting and was getting 14.6V.