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Idle variation, unknown cause

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Old Sep 27, 2016 | 09:33 PM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by ExPACamper
If the alternator had a direct short to ground with that many amps...I'm wondering if it is messed up and causing your problems?

Wow, you were lucky.

"see if Craftsman would exchange it"

Great pics

I just wish I could find it. I don't have any clue. The check valves in the HPOP is the only thing I could think of. But it makes a whole lot of no sense to me.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2016 | 12:02 AM
  #17  
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You need to check the alternator for ac voltage output. The "full wave bridge rectifier" inside the alternator cannot handle the kind of current that melted that screwdriver. I would bet some of the 6 diodes are no longer acting like diodes, i.e. they are allowing alternating current to flow into a direct current system that is not designed for it. Find a multimeter and use the A.C. scale to check from a positive terminal to ground. Report back! You may have damaged the wire windings inside the alternator or blown out the voltage regulator which cannot handle the surges of voltage change.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2016 | 12:08 AM
  #18  
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Also, if that were my truck, I would not drive it until that alt. is checked out or replaced. You can fry all the important electronics with an alt. putting out unregulated voltage, or AC voltage.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2016 | 01:37 AM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by retiredsparky
You need to check the alternator for ac voltage output. The "full wave bridge rectifier" inside the alternator cannot handle the kind of current that melted that screwdriver. I would bet some of the 6 diodes are no longer acting like diodes, i.e. they are allowing alternating current to flow into a direct current system that is not designed for it. Find a multimeter and use the A.C. scale to check from a positive terminal to ground. Report back! You may have damaged the wire windings inside the alternator or blown out the voltage regulator which cannot handle the surges of voltage change.
So I am checking from the positive cable off the alternator to negative battery post using a/c setting instead of d/c? Just making sure I am testing it right.


I did test from the negative battery cable to the cable coming of the alternator in the d/c setting and was getting 14.6V.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2016 | 07:48 AM
  #20  
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It's called a Ripple Test. Here's a simplified pic.

 
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Old Sep 28, 2016 | 02:04 PM
  #21  
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Thank you sir. I appreciate the pic. I will do that in a few min.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2016 | 02:35 PM
  #22  
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Okay, good. If you can, have someone rev it up to about 2k rpms while you measure, too. Just to be sure

Be careful of the belt and spinning pulley and all that jazz
 
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Old Sep 28, 2016 | 05:42 PM
  #23  
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Alright. At idle is first. Then 2,000 rpm.




 
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Old Sep 28, 2016 | 07:52 PM
  #24  
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Looks like you found a problem

As your rpms increase, so does the AC/interference, which can cause all kinds of things to act strangely.

I'd replace the alternator. The findings coincide with the mode of injury, so that increases the likelihood that this is the "main" problem
 
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Old Sep 28, 2016 | 08:01 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by ExPACamper
Looks like you found a problem

As your rpms increase, so does the AC/interference, which can cause all kinds of things to act strangely.

I'd replace the alternator. The findings coincide with the mode of injury, so that increases the likelihood that this is the "main" problem


Am I missing something? Test you sent me said below .5V. Am I brain dead or even at 2,000rpm reading am I still below that?
 
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Old Sep 28, 2016 | 08:14 PM
  #26  
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Originally Posted by Firefighter 1406
Am I missing something? Test you sent me said below .5V. Am I brain dead or even at 2,000rpm reading am I still below that?
Well, looks like YOU aren't the one who is apparently brain dead this eve

I glanced at your pics and thought the scale was showing .5 and 1.3

Well, that is NOT the case apparently. Glad you questioned it, sorry.

I'm remoted into a computer, tackling a virus on it at the moment and bounced back to check my email.

Doesn't meant the alternator is okay, just that Ripple isn't your problem
 
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Old Sep 28, 2016 | 08:24 PM
  #27  
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Honestly I wish that it was the problem. At least I would have a fix instead of still being in mystery land somewhere.
 
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Old Sep 28, 2016 | 08:32 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by Firefighter 1406
Honestly I wish that it was the problem. At least I would have a fix instead of still being in mystery land somewhere.
Well, 14.6v is pretty high, unless you have low batteries.

There are some alternator gurus on here (not me), hopefully they will chime in?
 
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Old Sep 28, 2016 | 09:35 PM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by ExPACamper
Well, 14.6v is pretty high, unless you have low batteries.

There are some alternator gurus on here (not me), hopefully they will chime in?

Are you convinced that the alternator is the issue? I thought while running 14.6 was what the alternator and batteries were supposed to show?
 
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Old Sep 28, 2016 | 09:59 PM
  #30  
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Originally Posted by Firefighter 1406
Are you convinced that the alternator is the issue? I thought while running 14.6 was what the alternator and batteries were supposed to show?
I don't know enough to make that call on these 7.3s.

In my experiences, 14.2v, 14.3v tops, once it crosses 14.5 and heads upwards to 15v, it's trouble.

That's why I'd like to hear from some guys who know these beast-er-nators better.
 
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