Hello,

I've a question about my '89 F350 10,25 Dually rear axle.
When I was taking of the drums for brake service, I noticed that there was starting to leak a thick gear oil from the axle itself onto the brake shoes.
Which contaminated the friction material and the drum.

Since I don't know much about these axles, I'm asking.
Is it possible there should be some sort of joint to keep the oils in the inside of the axle?

I did try to get to the wheel bearings, but I couldn't? do I need some special tool for that?

My axle is equipped with a limited slip differential, how can I test that it still works correct?

 

There is an oil seal between the hub and the axle housing.
You need to remove the axle and then use a special socket to unscrew the ratchet nut holding the bearing hub to the axle housing.
Bearing preload is critical on reassembly.

I'd reccomend the updated two piece 'Scotseal' style.
The ones I used were Timken brand, but SKF, & Federal Mogul also make them.
Clean the housing well, and check for scoring where the seal was riding.
The two piece seal rides inside itself and does not cause wear, but you don't want it to hang up when trying to get it back together.

First thing to check is that the axle breather hose is not clogged.
This hose connects to a hollow bolt holding the rear brake hose splitter to the axle housing.

I don't have any solid advice on testing the clutch packs.
I'm sure there is minimum allowable thickness if you were to remove them and check the stack with a Mic or caliper.

 

Since I'm in Europe, do you have any suggestion where to get these seals?

So it's a special tool I need for the undoing of the ratchet nut?
it looks like what?

My truck is only 8000 miles old, so the wear will be negligible I guess.
for testing the lsd I don't wanna go so deep, I thought more of a function test?

Thanks for the advice though

 

To test the limited slip you can jack both rear wheels up and with the trans in park (or manual in gear) try to turn one of the rear wheels. If the clutches are really worn out the tire will turn pretty easily, if not it will be difficult to turn. You can put a torque wrench on one of the lug nuts and get a number for how much torque it takes to slip the clutches (it won't be exact since the wheel will be turning around the axle center rather than the nut your are driving). But I don't know what torque reading you should be expecting.

 

I do not know what auto parts stores you have there in Europe.

I often order my parts from Amazon Prime unless I need them RIGHT NOW.

The spindle tool I use is Lisle #28000
This socket needs to be used with an extension....

Seals are SKF #34384 or Timken #370047A

It is a challenge to hot link images into a post from my phone, so I'm going to let you find a picture.

 

that should not be such a problem. Thanks for the numbers.
Yep, I had ordered the Timken #370047A actually already before I posted here, those were the ones needed according to Ro****to.
Now I have to find the correct tool to undo the ratchet nuts from the rear axle.
I think I have a look at the axle first, to determin the nut style, but since this "winter" I learned swimming (Ironical mode off) and I have no place with a roof where i can turn my wrenches, I'll have to wait until there is a dry 15 minutes....
Dang, I hate this kind of weather, didn't see the sun for over a month now!, and can't go in the meadow neither, if you do enter, you're goiing nowhere already after one meter! slippery mud all over.

 

OK, I had a look for the seals I had ordered (according to Ro****to) the Timken #370047A are the correct style.
Now I have to find out which style nut they used on my rear axle.
that might take a while, since it rains like hell here, didn't see the sun already for a month now!

 

I just did this job. Twice. There was a tiny groove worn at the bottom of the axle housing journal. It was a few thousandths deep, but enough to leak through the static seal. I got a cassette seal (where the sealing element is INSIDE the seal and the ID/OD of the seal will spin on each other. BUT the tiny groove was enough to make 'er leak after about a year. So I got another seal, did that side again. This time I used a VERY thin coat of permatex #2 the nasty black stuff that gets real thick and gummy but doesn't harden. I wiped that over the groove and assembled it. I got my parts at O'reilly but their 10.25 axle parts list is a complete mess. I had to tell THEM the part number I wanted. My seal had a press fit to the hub, and a static rubber squeeze fit to the axle housing, and the seal action is inside the seal cartridge. Don't get a seal that tries to seal on the axle housing. It is likely to leak. I have done this before, and shame on me for not laying on my back to really check the journal closely! That axle dope is SO NASTY after it runs through the brakes!

 

And this one is just as the SKF one that has two moving parts, and seals within the joint.

 

Ok, Today I got the massive steel axle with a flange out, to determine the ratchet nut style. it's the one with the four notches.
When I took out the flanged axle there came with it quite a bit stinky gear oil, is that normal?

And I noticed that those bolts holding the flange were sort of Locktited in place, do they have the tendancy to come loose? (I bought the truck with about the 2500 miles so I assume that they were never before undone.)

I recherched the lisle 28000 tool, and it said: Two tools in one small end fits Ford 1986 to 1994 light trucks with Dana 44 front axle. Large end fits 1985 and newer Ford F150 - F350 trucks with the Dana 80 full floating rear axle.

I can't find any measurements for the diameter of those four pins, that's a pity. though I'm in doubt, because I have the Ford/Sterling 10.25 axle here.
Any advise?