Fixed one problem, found another...
So, I had been having an issue with my bed lights (which turned out to be bad sockets) but while poking around under my truck looking at wiring I found this....
Broken tcase mount.
I'm sure this is a sign that other mounts (motor/trans) have gone bad. But I'm having difficulties finding a replacement mount. Is this something I should just weld back together or should I get a new piece of steel and bend it into shape? Or better yet if somebody knows where I could find a replacement mount that would be ideal.
All I seem to be able to find are poly bushings, not the mount it self. I've checked my local yards but 4x4s are a rare find and they're usually robbed of parts with in days of hitting the yard (large 4x4 presence in my area).
I've gotta do my clutch before winter comes so taking care of this at the same time would be ideal.
Thanks for your help!
If a JY one can't be sourced, remove it take it to a professional welding shop, unless you have the welding equip and skills to do yourself? I would weld in on the outside only so the back side is still flat to not change the angle of the bracket.
If a JY one can't be sourced, remove it take it to a professional welding shop, unless you have the welding equip and skills to do yourself? I would weld in on the outside only so the back side is still flat to not change the angle of the bracket.
I do have a 220v arc welder for the job of putting it back together. Ideally somebody will be able to point me to some sort of replacement bracket (unlikely).
Thanks for your input 77&79, any information/opinions are valuable to me!
I would grind an angle...maybe 30 degrees.....on all four pieces then fillet (multiple passes) weld it.
Clamp it as best you can. First, a root pass on both sides. Then fill in both sides with weld material. If you're using the 7018 rod (stick), chipping and grinding between passes is advised. If you're using a mig with gas, use no less than 0.030" solid wire.
You can grind down the welds later. The interior weld can be ground down flat if you have good penetration - hence the angle on all four sides.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ml#post1812190
Turn and Stop Lamp Diagnosis for 70's Ford Pickup - Ford-Trucks.com
I have 2 parts 78/79 Bronco that might still have one...I just have to bust some weeds and probably get Jake the snake out from under there to go ck.
I am sure ND, mike o0o0o0 might source a NOS location on one or some other FTE member might have one on a parts truck that is more readily available than mine. At least you found poly replacements. Also remember to ck the bottom of the trans cross member mount also.
I don't know its history other than it was used as a farm rig/fire wood hauler by the PO (only has this truck about 2 years and only been driving it about 8 months). So its likely been broken the whole time I've owned it.
Clamp it as best you can. First, a root pass on both sides. Then fill in both sides with weld material. If you're using the 7018 rod (stick), chipping and grinding between passes is advised. If you're using a mig with gas, use no less than 0.030" solid wire.
You can grind down the welds later. The interior weld can be ground down flat if you have good penetration - hence the angle on all four sides.
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ml#post1812190
Turn and Stop Lamp Diagnosis for 70's Ford Pickup - Ford-Trucks.com
I have 2 parts 78/79 Bronco that might still have one...I just have to bust some weeds and probably get Jake the snake out from under there to go ck.
I am sure ND, mike o0o0o0 might source a NOS location on one or some other FTE member might have one on a parts truck that is more readily available than mine. At least you found poly replacements. Also remember to ck the bottom of the trans cross member mount also.
I'm hoping numberdummy or mike can chime in with a nos part somewhere too. Or another FTE member with one that's in one piece would be awesome too. I'm not opposed to welding, but I do prefer things to be in more original condition.
Thanks again!
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. I'm making a couple of assumptions here, you didn't describe your truck so I'm going on whats listed in your profile.Bracket, transfer case steady rest.
75-up F100-150 w/ part time 4WD
D3TZ-7B051-B
Used with New Process transfer case
Green Sales, Cincinnati, OH has 3 (800) 543-4959
Bob Allen Ford
, Overland Park, KS also has 2 but you'd be better off welding the old one back together than trying to deal with them.EDIT:!! WRONG P/N!! BRB!
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. I'm making a couple of assumptions here, you didn't describe your truck so I'm going on whats listed in your profile.Bracket, transfer case steady rest.
75-up F100-150 w/ part time 4WD
D3TZ-7B051-B
Used with New Process transfer case
Green Sales, Cincinnati, OH has 3 (800) 543-4959
Bob Allen Ford
, Overland Park, KS also has 2 but you'd be better off welding the old one back together than trying to deal with them.You are correct and my apologies for not listing my vehicle in the op. I'll edit it into the post and leave it here.
76 f150 with 360 np435 and NP 205.
You are correct and my apologies for not listing my vehicle in the op. I'll edit it into the post and leave it here.
76 f150 with 360 np435 and NP 205.
DON'T ORDER YET! WRONG P/N!!
The illustration was off a little. It shows basic p/n 7B051 OR 7A444 as the bracket I didn't catch the 7A444. It also shows 7B051 as the basic p/n for the bracket that bolts to the transfer case, that's what this P/N is for. That's the bracket that bolts to the transfer case, not the frame.
The P/N you need is actually D3TZ-7A444-B. That bracket bolts to the frame.
Unfortunately, no dealer or obsolete supplier shows having any.
Again, sorry for posting the wrong number.
The illustration was off a little. It shows basic p/n 7B051 OR 7A444 as the bracket I didn't catch the 7A444. It also shows 7B051 as the basic p/n for the bracket that bolts to the transfer case, that's what this P/N is for. That's the bracket that bolts to the transfer case, not the frame.
The P/N you need is actually D3TZ-7A444-B. That bracket bolts to the frame.
Unfortunately, no dealer or obsolete supplier shows having any.
Again, sorry for posting the wrong number.









