several years ago I bought a set of lectra-glide power window pushers...now I'm ready to put them in and there are no instructions in the box and i cans't find anything on the net

think I bought them from Springfield Street rods booth... but don't think they are in business any longer

anyone uses these and can copy me a set of the install sheets ??? I could probably figure it out but I've learned that reading the instructions speeds the process and cuts down on profanity and spare parts

thanks

 

John,
Does your motor and track look like this?


TractormanBill

 

hey Bill... sent you a pm... here's what I got.. it's similar but not the same

 

John,
Looks like the same unit.
I tried for several months to get this unit to work in my 52 one piece and gave up.
Went to New-relics and it was pretty much a bolt in deal using the original holes.
Some of the problems with the old unit which I paid through the nose from Ball's Racing? is they could not tell me what my problems were. It came with about a 12" window lift bar and I had problems with the window rocking forward and backwards in the channels. They recommended a roller bar for more money and I think it made it worse.
The New-relics has a long lift bar and is about 2" shorter than the window on both ends and bolts solid where it cannot rock.
With your unit the motor & track has to be mounted at about the same angle as the channel on the latch end of the door. This takes a Hell of a lot of shimming and I used tubing to space the motor.
I never could get the angle to work right and I worked on it for months! The top edge of the glass was pressing too hard on the inside of the opening.
The old units had a vertical channel that screwed or riveted into the vent end of the door. It was not counter-sunk so you could use a flat head screw and a regular screw head would hold the window felt out some and they furnished no screws. To rivet the channel in you have to grind down your rivet gun on both sides to fit in the door channel.
The other main problem you have to solve is the placement of the bracket to hold the bottom of the new channel in the correct place while holding the glass snug against the other side felt with the correct distance from the inner door panel so the angle is the same as the rear channel.
Ball's unit had no good instructions to do this where as the New-Relic unit gave you the dimensions of where to drill, etc.
The New-relics came with a longer channel, counter-sunk with a flat head screw.
I am attaching an old door with some of the holes I drilled trying to get the old unit to work.
Sorry I rambeled a lot but my cell is 210-219-6130 for more on my suggestions.
TractormanBill

 

ok... now we're making progress...

but questions...

the top picture you sent
1. is that the '53 door, hinge side to the right ?
2.. the distance you have for the bottom guide bar screw 15-5/8?
from the edge of the door ??

3. the 4 screws marked are the motor screws right ??
4. how much spacer between motor and inside of door ??


picture I attached (your other picture)

how far down is the top mounting screw from the window sill ??
and I"m assuming it's centered between the window tracks ??

I don't think I ever heard... you using flat glass or curved one piece

thanks

 

He has a F-1 John, different door, don't get too excited...lol

 

--My door is a 52 and the pictures will do you no good. Don't go by any of these figures as they may have been old attempts at fitting the track. I will be happy to talk with you and offer suggestions if you try to use your set-up.
210-219-6130
TractormanBill

 

Our friends at Mid Fifty sell a window kit that looks like the one your attempting to install.

They happen to have an install kit that covers 48-66 trucks according to the install instructions.

Here is the link.

Instructions - Mid Fifty F-100 Parts

 

Is this instructions for a vent window model? I don't see any mention about mounting the metal channel for the front felt if it is for a single window pane.
TractormanBill