The subject engine is a 2000 Triton v-8, 4.6L. The retention bolt for the coil on plug for no. 7 sheared (for reasons unknown) and the bolt remains in there. I had a problem with that C.O.P. that might have been due to the sheered bolt, and replaced it even though it was less than 3 years old. I stuck the new one on there hard and tight and went on with it. That has been about a year and a half ago, and I have not had a firing problem since or a code attributable to a misfire.

But I know it is there and it is not right, and I want to fix it. I had a dealer look at it when it was in for service. The dealer’s options in response were disappointing and ridiculous, I thought. The repair was a cray quote and replacement of the manifold was even crazier. I am not a mechanic or machinist but have know enough to know what bolt and screw extraction is in general, and even that there is a drill out process to essentially destroy a bolt and then retrieve the slight remnant with pliers and a magnet. Then there are reducers and sleeves like Time Serts and Heli Coils that can be installed if overdrilling is require and the thread is bad and nor repairable with a thread chaser. The service advisor made out like this would be much different and much harder to justify the price quote (which I believe was a $1,000 or more).

I own a Micro Pro Grab-It set, which is supposed to be a little better than the Easy-Out (I don’t know). It worked well extracting a stripped torx head bolt in the ABS control module I posted about. The set has a drill bit/extractor unit that will fit within the diameter of the C.O.P. retention bolt. However, the issue that I see is that the fuel rail and the injector and emissions related stuff will create a bit of an access challenge. I need to be able to get a drill down in there to the bolt and operate it in reverse (which is how the extractor works), and the extractor itself is small in diameter and no more than 2 inches long. Access/headroom clearance seems to be the only challenges to me, but I am concerned that I am oversimplifying or underestimating the issue since the dealer gave me such expensive and complicated repair solutions. And thus, I have questions.

1. In what is the bolt sitting within the manifold (I.e., a threaded sleeve)? Is there a solid metal flange that gives me adequate work space and distance from the manifold interior and ducted air?

2. What mistakes can I make (or others have made) in drilling and extracting the C.O.P. bolt that could cause a leak of ducted air and ruin the manifold?

3. What extensions are available (and from whom) for a drill with a chuck on the end to cinch down on the little extractor?

4. Has anyone bought the stainless bolt replacement kit for Ford C.O.P. bolts on ebay for $7.50 (postage included)? It is a cheap replacement kit if it works because it saves me from looking and running. But is the quality there?

 

I also have a broken COP bolt. I replaced all my COP's after I had 2 failures. Its been almost a year and I haven't had any issues. I, too was concerned about having a COP with no bolt holding it down. But I've had my truck for a little over a year. And I have no idea how long it was like that before I had the truck. I'm not worried about it anymore.

 

I simply drilled out the sheared bolt and then tapped the new, larger hole for a bolt I bought at the local hardware store.