Removed and resealed HPOP and fuel bowl. Now she won't start. Ran fine before pump & bowl was serviced. I had leakage that I wanted to clear up. I have made no less than eight 15-20 sec start attempts with out even a cough. Reservoir is full, fuel in bowl and over 140 RPM when cranking.

AE info:
IPC duty cycle - rises to over 60% during cranking
IPC voltage - .18 all the time
IPC psi - 0 all the time

I did verify I placed the ball between the pump face and the "non serviceable" pin. I did leave out the spring and check valve seat from one of the output connectors. That has been corrected.

 

IPR% and ICP indicate no pressure being generated. How about the Springs and Discs in the Feed Ports. There should have been a spring and disk in each. the disc goes in first, followed by the spring. 99% of the time they don't come out. But, then again, there is always that 1% that gets us.This will cause the pump not to make pressure.

 

I did forget one, which was subsequently put in. I even double checked the shaft nut on the gear. Used a long bar against the floor to keep the engine from turning.

 

I feel your pain. Although, your going to have to remove it and check everything unless someone else has any ideas.

 

There's the chance you still have air trapped on the HPO system.

 

Something somewhere is bleeding HPO, or your IPR needs service/replacement.

 

Service as in remove and clean?

 

I was under the impression that the springs and discs (check valve) were not required based on information stating that upgraded HPOP's do not use them and parts like what RiffRaff offers at the link below.

HPOP Outlet Hose Fitting - Non Check Valve - Riffraff Diesel Performance

I only ask because I am about to replace my fittings and HPOP lines and bought the fittings above thinking that they would be better since the check valves were not required.

 

I am sorry but this is incorrect. The check valves have no bearing on the pump operation and are removed from all aftermarket pumps like the Adrenaline, Stealth, T500, Honey Badger etc. Just don't want to mislead the OP, you can always take these out without any ill affects.

 

did you removed the ICP sensor to make sure an air bubble is not trapped under it? Also may have to fill the oil rail with oil which helps. Good luck I am going to be doing the same task soon if the rear plug fix does not stop my leak.

 

Yeah. "Stinky" died and wouldn't start in the driveway after new injectors and a short drive. The IPR was a bit sticky, and cleaning it got me running again. I then ordered a new OEM IPR from Riffraff Diesel.

I have no check valves in the fittings on my T500 - this eliminates the need for a HPX.

 

Is there any reason I need to keep the springs in fitting. Can I just remove them? I may have to replace one of the fittings. Should I just remove both springs? Should I replace fitting with the lorger port style?

 

You can remove the springs and discs. If you decide to replace the fittings instead of rebuilding them, then go with the set I linked above from RiffRaff. They are slightly larger internal than OEM and half the price.

 

That was exactly the answer to my question. Thanks!

 

Most times they remain in the pump and no issue. Some times they come out with the fitting. Without the engine will not start or have no acceleration above idle. They're required to maintain pressure while cranking. I am not familiar with bored out type RiffRaft Sells. We used Ford OEM on everything.

In a hurry, I once dropped a spring and put it back in and forgot all about the disk on one feed. the truck barely ran at all. Then I slapped myself in the forehead when I remembered I should have checked for the Disk which was in the valley. I don't forget anymore about the spring and disks.