OK, thanks. I am going to try aligning the gasket with the bolts and not use any sealer first. If that fails, I'll resort to a small amount to hold it in place.

 

I have a throttle cable on my F4, which makes perfect sense for a farm truck to control speed while following alongside other equipment or for operating a PTO device.

This truck has no throttle ****. And I have yet to determine what the extra ***** do or did.

 

I asked the PO for more info on what was done to the truck while he owned it. Here's the list he gave me. I understand some of this, but will need to research some more to gain full understanding of what I now own.

Rebuilt 352, 60 over pistons
352 cu in (5.4 L) FE 4.0000 in (101.60 mm) 3.300 in (83.8 mm)
FE FORD Valve Spring Kit, Drop in Fit, High Performance, 7 Degree.
• 1.460" Outside Diameter
• .980" Inside Diameter
• 110 Lbs @ 1.815" Valve Closed Installed Height
• 262 Lbs @ .500" Lift
• 300 Lbs @ .600" Lift
• Fits FE Ford w/ std 3/8" stem valves
• Spring seat machining not required
• Fits common stepped spring base iron heads
• SS VALVES, FE FORD, W/ 2.03/1.56, HIGH PERFORMANCE VALVES
o IN- 2.03" X 3/8" stems X 5.445" w/ .321" tip length. Std O.A.L
o EX- 1.56" X 3/8" Stems X 5.435" w/ .321" tip. Std OAL
o 3/8" Stem Diameter
o IN- 45 degree face angle (OEM spec)
o EX- 45 degree face angle (OEM spec)
o Undercut - Jet Flow under head area
o Swirl Polished
o Exhaust Valves, 21-4N material
o Intake Valves, specially alloyed steel
o Hard Chromed Stems
o Suitable for high spring pressures
o Brand: Silvolite Pistons
Part Number: 1129-60 Condition: New
Silv-O-Lite Pistons for 1958-66 Ford 352 5.8L V8 Oversize 60
stage 2 racing camshaft
Flat Top Piston, Four valve relief
Crankshaft Main Bearings FORD 352, flange o/s .010
Bore Size: 4.060" / 103.124mm
Compression Height: 1.816"
Pin Diameter: 0.975
Piston Ring Thickness: 5/64" x 3/32" x 3/16"
o rebuilt 5 speed 1985 Mustang transmission and fly wheel
o Dual Friction; Size 11 in.; 10 Spline By 11/16" Incl. Pressure Plate / Clutch Disc. Throwout Bearing
o factory 67 Ford F250 power steering gear box
o new water pump, oil pump, fuel pump
o Edelbrock intake
o Edelbrock 750 double pumper carburetor

 

Beautiful old truck !!!!!

 

Thank you sir.

 

I see I haven't updated this in 5 months.

We moved from Southern California to Virginia at the end of November. I had the truck shipped back, as I didn't want to spend a fortune on gas and couldn't afford the possibility of a breakdown due to our time crunch between closing on one house and closing on the other.

I'll post some pics of the next stage in changes to the truck soon. I can't see well enough with the stock round mirrors, so I'm going to change them. I'm expecting arrival today of some mirror arms so I can mount the 5"x7" rectangular mirrors I got from Speedway. Shipping was free and they arrived in 2 days. I ordered the arms from Raney's at the same time, and they aren't here yet, 10 days later. That was my first and will be my last order from them.

I have a real task ahead fixing the wiring mess left by the PO. I'll update my progress with that here as well. Wish me luck.

 

Awesome truck !

 

Thank you sir!

And, pictures or it didn't happen...

Here's the mirror installation. I took it for a spin to check the adjustment and see if I like them. I do. They're staying. I'll probably put some convex dots on the bottoms later. At least I can see what's behind me now.

 

Nice truck! I read your entire thread. I'm new and learning too. Keep the updates coming.

 

Thanks.

Yes, I'm new to this forum since I just got the 65 in September. I was working on a 51 F4 for over 5 years before that. It stayed in CA with my son when we moved to VA in November. So I have started the learning curve over with the 65.

 

And so it begins. I don't see an end in sight.

What doesn't work on my truck? Heater, wipers, washer, horns and turn signals.

The heater does not come on. I don't know yet if it's the blower motor or wiring. The 20A fuse looks good, but for some reason has been bypassed by another fuse holder???

The wipers do not come on. The circuit isn't fused directly. The motor switch gets power from the ignition switch. So I don't know if it's the motor, the switch or the wiring.

There is no windshield washer motor or bag in the truck. The button is on the dash, and the plumbing's in the hood but that's it for now.

The horns would work if I could get the steering wheel down far enough on the shaft to make contact. See earlier in the thread.

The turn signals work... on the outside. The left indicator works correctly. The right indicator works but the left comes on at the same time. The flashers work correctly... on the outside. But with the flashers on, only the right turn signal indicator flashes. The wiring diagram shows 2 flashers in the truck, one for signals and one for emergency. My truck has only one flasher that I can see under the dash in the rat's nest. Film at 11:00.

When I first went through the truck, I found extra Buss fuses in the door panel. No big deal right. Thoughtful, right? The fuse panel has two 20A fuses, one for the heater and one for the stop and emergency lights; one 15A for the dome light and cigar lighter; one 14A for back-up lights, turn signals and windshield washer; and one 2A for the dash lights. The spare fuses? Six 30A, ten 20A, five 15A, seven 14A and one 9A. So, I can't use the 30A or the 9A. And the fuse holder slot for the 2A is empty which is, I'm hoping, the only reason the dash lights don't work. I'm a little paranoid to see if there are 30A fuses used somewhere in the truck.

And, if anyone is still following this thread after all that... thank you.

 

Hey Joe, know the feeling. I put a fuse in the dome light, and immediately blew out. Found that the light switch had a broken rheostat switch for lack of a better term, and was shorting out. You guessed it, new light switch. I have been very lucky with the wiring because it is pretty much unmolested. My question is, you have a backup light circuit in a 65. They weren't available until 67 I thought.
Keep your head up, it always seems to work itself out. Good Luck. Bob

 

Hi Bob,

I don't have back-up lights, that's just what the fuse box is labeled "B/U lamp, Turn sig, W/S Washer". I don't even know if there's a reverse switch on the Mustang T5 5 speed the PO put in here.

But now that you mention it, I wonder why the fuse box is labeled that way. Probably used the same fuse panel in cars for 65. I bet Bill N-D can tell us.

EDIT:

Correction! I was reading the face of a diagram of a fuse panel for the fused circuits because I can't yet read the face of the panel in my truck. As it turns out, my fuse panel is not labeled "B/U lamp" etc... I'm not sure yet how it is actually labeled, but I can see that I was wrong in quoting that diagram.

And Number Dummy did post in my other thread about fuse panels with the correct part number for my truck's fuse panel. Also, Dave Engelson posted some helpful pics of a 65 fuse panel that will be very helpful in my troubleshooting once I can actually reach the fuse panel (after I pull the seat out so I can contort into position under the dash).

 

I was able to read the fuse panel today. I don't know if this will help anyone else, but here's what I have on my 65 F250.

The top fuse is 20A for the Heater. The heater blower doesn't work, but the 20A fuse AND the one the PO bypassed it with are blown. Maybe a shorted blower motor? Maybe something jury rigged.

The next fuse is 14A for the Radio, Stop and Turn Signals. The radio doesn't work, but I didn't expect it to. The turn signals operate, but I think the brake lights do not. I need to check the switch on the M/C.

The next is an unknown (assumed 2A) for the Instrument panel lights. I assume because the rating is not marked on the face of the panel. Does anyone know if the rating for the instrument panel lights is 2A? Mine don't work since the fuse is missing (obviously) and I'd like to be sure before I plug a fuse in. I'm pretty sure those three lamps are all that's in that circuit, unless the PO has tapped into it for some other thing he added.

The bottom left is 9A for the dome light. The bottom right is 14A for the Cigar lighter. The dome light and the cigar lighter work. Yay for things that work!

 

Jolly Roger, you have to be happy with the little accomplishments. From your other post, the 2 amp is right for the dash lights. Bob