Oh sure, tell us 'Whatcha got under the hood'......... maybe we'll all learn something new.

BarnieTrk

 

Well, you probably won't learn anything new, but maybe you can explain some of it to me...

FE FORD Valve Spring Kit, Drop in Fit, High Performance, 7 Degree.
· 1.460" Outside Diameter
· .980" Inside Diameter
· 110 Lbs @ 1.815" Valve Closed Installed Height
· 262 Lbs @ .500" Lift
· 300 Lbs @ .600" Lift
· Fits FE Ford w/ std 3/8" stem valves
· Spring seat machining not required
· Fits common stepped spring base iron heads
· SS VALVES, FE FORD, W/ 2.03/1.56, HIGH PERFORMANCE VALVES
o IN- 2.03" X 3/8" stems X 5.445" w/ .321" tip length. Std O.A.L
o EX- 1.56" X 3/8" Stems X 5.435" w/ .321" tip. Std OAL
o 3/8" Stem Diameter
o IN- 45 degree face angle (OEM spec)
o EX- 45 degree face angle (OEM spec)
o Undercut - Jet Flow under head area
o Swirl Polished
o Exhaust Valves, 21-4N material
o Intake Valves, specially alloyed steel
o Hard Chromed Stems
o Suitable for high spring pressures
o Brand: Silvolite Pistons
Part Number: 1129-60 Condition: New
Silv-O-Lite Pistons for 1958-66 Ford 352 5.8L V8 Oversize 60 stage 2 racing camshaft
Flat Top Piston, Four valve relief
Crankshaft Main Bearings FORD 352, flange o/s .010
Bore Size: 4.060" / 103.124mm
Compression Height: 1.816"
Pin Diameter: 0.975
Piston Ring Thickness: 5/64" x 3/32" x 3/16"

 

I decided to see if I could get the horns to work today. I think the passenger side horn is kaput, but the drivers side horn works with 12V applied to its connector.

The troubleshooting is because the horn(s) don't honk when the ground is applied to the relay from the steering wheel. I first checked the wire from the steering column to the first connector. Here I met my first surprise. The wiring diagrams I have seen show wire #1 is blue with a yellow tracer all the way from the steering column to the horn relay. I have mentioned before that this truck's wiring is a mess, but I was surprised to find the other side of that first connector is not only a different color, but all the wires in it are different colors from the steering column side. So I ran a jumper with my meter from the steering wheel contact to the connector on the horn relay. The connection is good. But the horn relay doesn't energize.

Well, since the relay needs 12V to energize, I checked for voltage at the connector. No 12V on the yellow wire. That supposedly comes straight from the junction block connected to the battery and starter relay, but there is no continuity from the horn relay to the junction. I applied a 12V jumper directly to the relay, and it still would not energize.

I removed the relay and discovered the contacts were corroded worse than any I've seen in the 50 years I've been working with electronics. I finally got them cleaned up, installed the relay, hit it with 12V and a ground again, and the relay energizes. So, I ran a new wire to the relay from the battery and got that part working. But the horn didn't honk even when the relay energized. Chalk that up to more corrosion on the horn connector. It works now...

I will try to refurbish the other horn at some point... or if they're cheap enough I'll just buy a new one.

And after 50 years of using a meter, I still haven't learned how sharp the points are on the leads. I shoved one into my fingertip while trying to get contact through the corrosion on the yellow wire.

 

Beautiful truck. Although I think (and I believe others have said already) that the gauge cluster is wrong. BUT, if you would happen to want to make it the custom cab gauge cluster I would gladly buy that cluster in it now lol. I want one that has the extra gauges so I don't have to add ugly (to me) add on ones.

 

Thanks. I don't want to sell my gauge cluster.

Someone (NumberDummy I think) said the Custom Cab trucks could be ordered with this gauge setup. I don't care that my speedo winds instead of sweeps.

I'm not really sure why the truck has this gauge setup, but I have no intention of changing it. Little by little, I'm correcting the errors made by a PO and getting everything on the truck to work.

 

It's not wrong.
Don (camperspecial65) who has the 1965 fleet salesmans data book, told me the sweep speedo cluster could be deleted, replaced by the Custom Cab round speedo cluster.

Fritz (The Masked Rider) has a similar truck with the same Custom Cab round cluster. He knew the original owner, said he ordered the truck this way.

 

The more I look at the price list the more I think they would literally build it just about any way you wanted it. For example, you could order a Standard Cab with the Deluxe Appearance Package (Not Available w/F250 4x4) which gives a person

Bright-metal windshield reveal moldings, grille, headlamp doors
Color-accented door trim panels
Horn ring

You could definitely delete the Heater and Emergency Flasher completely. For 1966 I don't see any option to delete the instrument cluster or swap for something else, and no option to Delete the Padded Dash, but nothing would surprise me too much.

You could order a dry element air filter instead of the oil bath. You could get what looks like any Custom Cab option on your Standard Cab, including the full foam seat cushion.

Chad

 

Excellent find. My first truck was a '65 my father and I restored. Man, I wish I had that truck back!

 

Thanks (again) for the ordering option info.

What I'd really like to have someone like Fritz (The Masked Rider) tell me is how their turn signal indicators in the dash work. The wiring diagram shows two distinct circuits for the turn signal, one for Custom Cab and one for Standard cab. Someone here informed me their Custom Cab (sweep) dash has one indicator when either the left or right signal is flashing. I think he said it's located top center of his sweep dash. My indicators work differently, as I have both a left and a right indicator in the round dash.
As I've mentioned previously, all turn signals work correctly outside the cab. And when I use the left turn, that left side light flashes in the dash. But when the right turn is selected, both left and right indicators flash. And when the emergency flasher is operated, the emergency light flashes and the right turn indicator flashes. I wonder if this is a result of the wiring harness designed for the sweep Custom Cab dash when it's connected to the round dash.

 

Wiring harness is identical no matter which cluster you have. All they did with the sweep speedo type of cluster is just use one wire plugged directly into the back of the other wire and both are attached to the one bulb for the turn indicators - where the round speedo uses both wires for left and right bulbs.

Chad

 

Thanks Chad.

So there is no logical explanation for the way my turn signal indicators work...

 

I mentioned a couple of days ago that the PO had the battery "strapped" down (loosely) with plastic wire ties. Oh, they were the giant family sized wire ties, but they were neither tight nor effective at holding the battery in the tray.

Today my battery hold down and "J" bolts came in. That's much better...

 

Today I received my new junction block from Amazon.
I was surprised (and glad) to see the holes lined up with the original holes in the inner fender.


I removed the electrical tape used by the PO to insulate these hot wires he had connected with a bolt and nut.




I mounted the new block to the inner fender and attached the wires. I decided to line them up instead of spreading them apart since the block came with extra nuts to add space between the connectors.

 

Beautiful truck. I just purchased a 65' Ford stepside truck. a lot of work before I reach this level !!

 

Thanks. Obviously, this is the way I bought it. I've had it over 2 1/2 years now and have put only 3,000 miles on it. But I'm quite happy with what I got.

After spending years on my '51 F4, I was happy to find a truck that didn't need work to make it driveable.

Good luck with your build.