First - thanks to all who have replied. it is most appreciated.


So....went to the shop. Changed out the Fram filter they had installed for my Baldwin 1212 filter I've been using for 115K miles (223K now). The pressure at the lift pump was rock steady at 70. Noticed an immediate improvement in power. The test drive was perfect! The rocket was back!


5 days later...WOT up a long hill to pace traffic and 1/2 way up it starts to fall off again 0 shaking and shuddering. Once the hill was cleared and on level road the motor recovered and all was good until the next hill. As long as I stayed at 1/2 throttle or less all was good. Folks behind me didn't like me going 40 in a 60, tho.


Put up with this for a week. Finally got so bad this morning that I replaced both filters. The pressure was all over the place before the new filters, steady afterwards. Test drive: all is back to normal. Took the filter apart - pristine clean! I should be good for another 5-7 days - it may start all over again. This is gonna get expensive.


Back to you - over.

 

You should drop the tank and clean it.

 

check your fuel bowl my brothers was the same way until we opened up the fuel bowl and seen that there was a bunch of rust material frm the heater broke off and clogs the filter. if its not that then its the pump if its ot that then its the filters in the tank they are two small filters in the sucking chamber in the tank. hope that helps

 

Blowing compressed air back into the tank from the inlet line on the back of the fuel pump will help tell if the tank screens are plugged, it will "fix" it for a short time. If so it's time for the Hutch mod.

 

We do the Hutch mod and replace the soft lines with 30R9, deleting any quick disconnect fittings on the intake side, all to provide steady fuel WITHOUT air.

If you haven't done Hutch yet, likely you are sucking air, too. Diesels hate air and would give the symptoms you mention, until the air cleared out of the lines again.

Hutch, clean tank thoroughly and inspect. Wouldn't hurt to rebuild your fuel bowl, too. Under $50, dieselorings.com

Don't forget to replace the Parker sleeves (seals) on all the fuel lines to your bowl.

 

You may also want to check the tinnerman but on the back of the IPR is tight or even still there (should be in valley if not) probably isn't it, but can sometimes cause what you are describing and is extremely easy to check......

 

Graphic novelette:

I ran with a pre-pump filter.





I then installed a fuel pressure gauge and took one glimpse at the reading with the Matt embracing Pedal.





I changed from a pre-pump filter to a pre-pump strainer.





I watched the fuel pressure gauge with Matt and Pedal at it again, and my world was back on-axis.