I understand that but I'm unsure which of the 2 terminals (nearest the back of the generator) is which. The one that looks like a big screw head is clearly a ground but the other 2 IDK. The screw head and 1 of the posts went to the regulator I believe but the other terminal led nowhere any longer at the other end of the wire. IE the diagram doesn't distinguish between which goes to F and A on the regulator...makes it look like it attached to the backside of the generator which isn't the case here. I'll try taking a wire brush to the generator to see if I can find any stamping to ID the 2 posts though.

 

If you wire-brush the case of the Gen, I think you'll find "G" and "F" stamped next to the two terminals in question. The "Arm" terminal is on the back face.

 

Took a closer look at the terminals and just made out the markings. The labeling is reversed from the above diagram with the G being top and F beingg bottom. I looked at that rear bolt and I see the insulator washer...but its under the long bolt. Didn't see a short separate terminal.

EDIT: This generator isn't original to the engine which would have been 6V. Best dad can recall when this one went in it brought it up to 12V. I scrubbed up around the 2 posts and found the lower one (in image) to be F. The upper one at first looked to be G which didn't seem right since the screw on the gen body has no insulator. Scrubbed a bit harder (especially since it had G in written in sharpie next to it) and it turns out to be A leaving the screw to be G as I thought might have been the case.

Next step is getting it wired up to be sure the old generator puts out (it spun smooth by hand before being reinstalled...though it sat out exposed to the elements for a few months)...and if the regulator still works. The cover is BIG and still riveted into place and the gasket is intact so the innards should still be good. If I don't get a charge indication will just drill out the rivets and inspect the contacts...and take some ultra fine sandpaper to them if need be.

 

Turns out to be a GM AC DELCO. Design isn't right for a ford of the year range the donor vehicles for the build were from. Matches early 60s setup though for Chebbies...
Attempt to see if the system was charging returned nothing except batt voltage even with increased revs. Attempt to motor//polarize gen set got no response either. It was still mounted under the hood for over 30 years n probably has about half as much dust collected as the starter did...and it sat outside to the elements for almost 2. Looks like it will get pulled apart for a rebuild (either as a cheap fix) to get charge system going or send it in for rebuild while getting another to install and use the old one when returned for spare.

 

Is the regulator a Delco-Remy too?

 

Any labeling is LOOOOONG gone to patina//whats-left-of-paint. But the design is identical to ones listed for 1963 regulators on any of the Chevy's I looked at. It certainly isn't the original as I can see the silhouette that it left on the firewall...the footprint is about 3x the size of the current one.

Still the charging system is a bit further up the to-do list as its currently not critical to getting everything else running. Still need to get the steering back in place and brakes system cleaned out so I can hook up the new flex lines. ATM the hold up is coercing the front drums off the hubs...already broke some chunks off the outermost lip of the passenger side one when trying to give sledge-coercion...ended up having to torch off the back of the shoe retainer pins to get some much needed play since the adjusters were stuck...then had to undo the big nut on top of the back plate whose other end the brake springs anchor to. Result was taking off EVERYTHING at same time just about. Did THIS to the driver's side from the start to avoid damaging the drum.
Drums are well and stuck to the hubs. Bad enough they are stuck around the short shoulders of the lug studs where they poke through the hub rotor but what is really hampering removal is the hub center doesn't taper towards the dust cap...its uniform from drum to cap.

 

The simplest thing to do might be the one-wire GM type alternator.

 

That certainly would cull the potential stampede of charging system gremlins to a "it either works or doesn't". Have seen setups using alternators so it remains possible. As long as the cradle the generator is strapped into will permit the install of an adequate alternator I won't have to alter anything other than ensure the thing gets strapped into alignment with the rest of the pulleys ensure it's housing grounds good.

 

Polarizing a Ford is different than a GM, never the twain shall meet. Generators work fine (unless you're busting 5000 RPM) but it's important they are matched with the correct regulator. If the regulator is riveted, it might be solid state? Or a cheapie, they aren't adjustable.

 

If its solid state is an OLD solid state. Have come across point-style with riveted covers to discourage tampering. ATM going to let the charge issue sit for now while tackling other more immediate obstacles.

 

Ah, that could be. I thought all the old school regulators were made to be adjustable.

 

The steering is finally installed. The wheel is out of a late 80s full size pickup with the double-D shaft. Got a steering U-joint with the 3/4 smooth//double-D ends. Both parts of the shaft feed through some heavy pillow block bearings. Currently the smooth end is pinned in place (short 5/16 bolt through the U-joint sleeve and through 1 side of the hollow shaft. It will get tacked later but is sufficient for the time being as its still a ways from going on the highway.

Bought some 1/2 inch asphalted-cloth loom like that used back when...which will last helluva lot longer than the modern plastic stuff you can get at AutoZone or similar. Have some in my 62 IH Scout 80 that is already getting stiff after only a couple years. Am wishing however that I'd bought the 5/8 at this point since trying to push more than 4 - 14ga wires through at time begins to fight back. But I do have the most critical wiring in place so it can be turned ON//OFF from the driver's seat. Same goes for the wiring for the front lights...nothing connected yet...while the other end of the loom inside is currently stuffed out of the way. Haven't yet run loom to the back yet.
Had a set of 225/75/15s already mounted some steel mags on another vehicle that itself hasn't moved in 10 years...but the rubber is still good...another matched pair of different style mags went on the front. Those originally had some 205/60/15s which made the front look...OFF to say the least...but found some 235/75s which are a huge improvement. No longer looks like clown car wheels up front. Actually doesn't look bad (as far as the rear mags are concerned) but when its actually finished it will more than likely have normal rims that will get painted.

Has a Reman DELCO REMY Gen-set in it along with an NOS Atlas regulator. Both work...just need to make sure they all get grounded proper otherwise the charge jumps around between 13 to almost 15. This was checked at battery with a voltmeter. Have yet to install the instrument cluster.

AND

Today it at last moved under its own power for the first time in decades. Drove it around the looped road on the property several times...not enough room to do any up shifting and even then need to remove the front chain first since it's only really meant to see both axles powered in 1st gear. Will try it out tomorrow on the road in front of the property.

Attaching image of side view. Was starting to get dark when took it but will have better ones tomorrow.

EDIT: The gas jug that can be seen in the attached image (in passenger floor board...below right of steering wheel) is currently the fuel tank...line is fed through the firewall to it. In the future it will have a 30 or so gallon tank made out of 1/8th steel built that tucks back in the bed. For the time being do have a 5 gallon tank that probably dates back as far as the original Mercs this rig was made out of...that supplied a welding machine or such. It will get mounted up in back until the aforementioned real tank is built.

 

Removed the front chain so there is no longer any live power transmitted to the intermediate shaft to the rear axle (will get some images of this later) and was able to run it through the gears. Now at idle there is still a faint miss...at the top end of 2nd when shifting to third and if trying to give it the gas at anything above minimum speed in 3rd gear it will cough and sputter...with the telltale sign also coming out the exhaust stack as thick puffs of smoke.

I'm thinking that the 2nd cylinder on right side (when going front to back)....still has a valve sticking open...would be exhaust it seems with the cough going out the pipe.
In a prior post I'd mentioned I had one sticking when I was lubing the cylinders (all plugs out) and cranking it over (also to get fresh oil circulating) while I had my thumb over the plug holes. Only the 1 refused to try pushing my digit away.

Short of pulling the intake to directly access the rods//valves I've heard of a few potential solutions that I'd like to get thoughts on.
Heavy dose off MMO in the fuel.
Spraying ATF into the carb while manually working the throttle to keep it going. Both these solutions are suppose to try and lube the valves.
Another is to drain the oil and replace with straight ATF and run it briefly since the trans oil is straight detergent and should clean everything out and ideally release any stuck valves?

Other thoughts?

 

Well. No more stuck valve. Had installed a temporary cleaned up fuel tank from an ooold gen-set until the permanent one can be made and went to add about a 1/3 bottle of MMO to the roughly 1 1/2gal of gas in what is a 5gal tank. Took off for short run with the rig but didn't get far...had used up the fuel in the bowl. All attempts to restart couldn't keep it going and it was dumping fuel out the breather tube in top of the fuel bowl and into the intake manifold. Thought this was REALLY bad and that I was seeing huge fuel dumpage...until I looked at the sediment bowl on the pump...DEEP DARK RED! Checked fuel tank...the gas had evaporated since the old tanks cap doesn't exactly seal so it was effectively empty. I'd sucked up pure MMO and that was what was going being dumped.
Well....put extra gas in tank and finally got it started and manually kept it running...huge puffs of smoke not withstanding until it was steady enough to get back in the drivers seat. Got it moving and opened it up. To my surprise there was no spit//sputtering at high throttle even as the load of 3rd gear was put on it. Almost 8oz of MMO mixed in with MAYBE half that worth of gas down the pipe seems to have done it.
IDK if it will need another dose to clear it up permanent...but still have the rest of the bottle.