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My 95 bronco idi build

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Old 08-31-2016, 01:19 AM
Jay54
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My 95 bronco idi build

I started a build thread at FSB My 95 BKO IDI build - Ford Bronco Forum

I wanted to thank all the guys who have shared excellent info here at ford-trucks. I learned so much about the idi in the past year leading up to this build. I'm still thinking about getting typ4 camshaft. Racinndrummin bronco build and tech info on these engines is unsurpassed.

If you want me to have a build thread over here I can. Not much talk over there.
 
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Old 08-31-2016, 02:31 AM
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definitely post the build thread over here. Lots of IDI guys here. Would be interesting.
 
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Old 08-31-2016, 08:59 AM
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Please do! I'm sure it will receive a lot of attention
 
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Old 08-31-2016, 04:08 PM
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For sure! We'd all love to see it. Pretty rare and cool!
 
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Old 09-01-2016, 10:49 PM
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The start of my build;

I've been wanting to build a bronco for almost a yr. I bought this non running beauty for 1200 and got it running in his driveway. She still needed new wires so I got summitracing wires, cap and rotor with MSD coil, bump timing to 14 and changed the oil. The interior and exterior is pretty clean for a 21yr old 215k mile rig!!!





On the 60 mile trip home I knew I would have to fix the steering, driver seat(foam and busted), a/c, driver window, driver door lock actuator, stereo, speakers, window weatherstripping and rear window. A pretty good size list just to make it drive-able for me.
Steering, I went with super duty 4 bolt box and ambulance steering tie rods. The power steering lines were annoying to find and get to fit, They also get in way of the non fuctioning 3 wheel ABS unit. Ford likes to call it 4 wheel but they are dumb dumbs lol
Driver seat, stripped it down with my daughters help and welded it at work. in the mean time I found a passenger seat at the junk yard and took the foam out of it for $10. Fit like a glove....
A/C, pressure switch leaking, replaced and both fill valves leaked, replaced. High side spike to 350+, replaced clutch fan. Blows cold, touch down!!!!!
Driver door lock, noticed alarm plug to driver door lock cylinder was disconnected. Connected it before I had new actuator. Alarm randomly set, disconnected switch. Replaced actuator and reconnected switch, alarm works properly, hint hint for people with alarm issues...
Driver window and front speakers, weatherstrip. Replaced
Stereo, pioneer stereo, no CD. They can skip offroad lol
Rear window, too many hours invested. Rusted piviot bushings, bad interior switch, bad power wiring from ckt 12... Replaced weatherstrip and got window working off key in gate.

The goals, family offroader that I can drive daily. I don't want a dead project (i'll get to it xxx) I want it clean, comfortable and useable. 20mpg is a must also!!!!

After the little crap its time for lift, I bought a 1988 F150 for $400 with a rancho extended radius arm lift. About 4hrs later I had it stripped, I then scrapped the body for $42!!!!



Now to install lift, I figured since I was doing it at work on a lift it would take 4hrs tops for the front, try almost 8!!!



Swapped rear leaf pack springs with F150 and installed 35" BFG I had on my 93 explorer



Then I had to test it out

Browns camp 8-20-16. - Ford Bronco Forum

Suspension isn't done, I need to install the 7.3 IDI before I get ride height perfect. Rear 56" springs are shorter from front hanger to axle, 25" front 31" rear. Not best for flex, Will go to chevy 63" and reverse shackle. Then I'll level the BKO with mounting location of springs

Now its time for the engine!!! whole reason I started this project, I have a 1993 F350 donor vehicle that I couldn't pass up. What to do with the 7.3 IDI NA? Bronco ding ding ding.... Well it needs a remanufactured pump and injectors. When its running the white smoke is so horrid, it burns your eyes. The compression and glow plugs good. So!!!! pumps aren't cheap but I was about to get one coming and found this gem for $500!!!



1994 7.3 IDI turbo with 160K. The guy bought it with oil in the coolant, He thought it was an oil cooler issue, he put $500 in parts, oil cooler, fuel pump, water pump and hoses. Didn't even drive it a full tank and he started getting coolant in the oil, he had a wrecked powerstroke fall into his lap, so he swapped it. He said this one ran like a top, turbo is sloppy. So I ordered, engine gasket set, rings, turbo kit and for $76 source some cap head allen bolts and washers for head bolts. tons of research showed the stock 1/2 head bolt has 153,000 tensile strength but it keeps stretching worse then the 6.9 7/16 bolt. The shoulder on the 7.3 head bolt is thinner then the threads. I'm picking up the cap head allen bolts tomorrow, they have 180,000 tensile strength, I'm hoping the shoulder is a solid 1/2 unlike the stock head bolts.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...ch-thread.html

So I got the socket cap bolts from fastnel. They are .050 thicker then the stock head bolts at the shoulder.



Cummins guys run these bolts over stock ones all the time with success. So I'm happy with the results. Studs would be better but the price isn't justified in this build.

Got it on the engine stand tonight also

 
  #6  
Old 09-01-2016, 11:56 PM
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Wow, quite the detailed swap so far! Thanks for the good read.

What torque did you run for the hex cap bolts? Do you have a link for them by chance?
 
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Old 09-02-2016, 02:17 AM
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Thank you, I haven't used them yet. I was planning on stock torque of 115(110-115) but I might go to 130 max. If you read the link I posted about bolts the 2nd page show how the stock 1/2 bolts stretched worse then the stock 7/16 6.9L bolts. When I pulled one of the 1/2 bolts out and saw that shoulder was so thin I knew it is a no brainer to do cap socket bolts.

New toys in the mail. Door hinge bushings, the drivers door is annoying me!!!! Turbo rebuild kit, no evidence of compressor wheel contact on the housing but I don't like the amount of play! Fuel return line kit! Then finally a weld in 3" band clamp kit, the turbo has the stock down pipe, I plan on making a custom down pipe.



I cleaned the garage and starting the tear down.

 
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Old 09-03-2016, 04:48 PM
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I stripped the engine to a short block



Good and bad news!!!
Good, The engine has 160K and the injector pump was rebuilt by IFS in Ohio. Hopefully the injectors were done at the same time, they look pretty clean. Has anyone heard of IFS?



Bad, Both head gaskets were in tacked but there is coolant in the oil!!! Cavitation??? all but the last 2 cylinder walls (6&8) on the driver side look clean.





The donor rig is a 1993 F350 7.3 IDI NA with 241k so if this is cavitation I'll use that short block. What do you guys think???

 
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Old 09-04-2016, 01:47 AM
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Hm... coolant in the oil; front cover gasket perhaps -- where the water pump channels go through the front cover, a breach there could have it leak into the air in front of the cam gear, and drip down into the oil.
 
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Old 09-05-2016, 10:33 PM
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got it backwards Mac, he had oil in the coolant...


and these covers are a PITA.
ive been fighting this issue for a month+


to the OP, make block off plates and test the block, when you have it pressurized rotate the crank 90* and let it sit for a couple of hours.
IF cavitation is not visible, that should tell ya.
 
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Old 09-05-2016, 10:45 PM
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Originally Posted by IDIoit View Post
got it backwards Mac, he had oil in the coolant...
Originally Posted by Jay54 View Post
Didn't even drive it a full tank and he started getting coolant in the oil, he had a wrecked powerstroke fall into his lap, so he swapped it.
Anyway, going back to the newly posted info... that big "divot"(if it is what it looks like) on one of the back cylinders looks bad. I'm pretty sure that would need a sleeve for sure.

In fact, that might be the solution if you wanted to keep the turbo block - have the two rear cylinders sleeved.
Before you do that, though... verify your leaks. I'd try pressurizing the coolant chambers(block off all the various ports somehow) and see if you can find a leak if any.

As far as the other motor goes, sure. You might even be able to swap the rotating assembly over from the turbo motor if you wanted the extra strength connecting rods. Or sell it to someone who wants to do that.
 
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Old 09-06-2016, 06:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Macrobb View Post
Hm... coolant in the oil; front cover gasket perhaps -- where the water pump channels go through the front cover, a breach there could have it leak into the air in front of the cam gear, and drip down into the oil.
Thank you both for the replies.

I read this Saturday and gave me a tiny bit of hope lol. I pulled the timing gear cover off last night looking for coolant leak evidence in the gasket, none. The truck this engine came out of had 160k miles. The engine definitely has been rebuilt once, the Pistons have a part number that indicates.020 oversized. All 8 exhaust valves have part numbers stamp on them also, the camshaft retention plate has a shiny aftermarket bolt in it also.

I thought about using the turbo block rotating assembly but #8 piston top edge has some deformation, it got hot!!!! I'll bring it to Tdc and take a pic.

So the thought is NA short block, R&D camshaft and turbo heads. What do you think?

I like your build mac.
 
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Old 09-08-2016, 10:13 AM
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this happened to me also.
this was taken with the coolant system pressurized to 16 psi.
1 plug was leaking.
 
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Old 09-09-2016, 05:32 AM
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I'm looking forward to the finished product. I always like seeing diesel broncos
 
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Old 09-09-2016, 03:39 PM
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When I lost a block to cavitation It was #8, I remember I used to buy parts from a diesel specialty shop in Canada, he said the hole will be half way down the bore, toward the back, firewall. I took a scribe and scratched around and found the tiny hole. As far as which direction to go tough call?
 

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