Are you using a gasket? No, the base doesn't help, that is a vacuum chamber under the PV.

 

I think I tried both with and without a gasket. I assume I picked the correct gasket. Of course my rebuilt kit is old and is what I used 10 years ago when I first rebuilt the carb.
Hopefully I can play with it some this afternoon.

 

Keep going Joe. You're not losing ground and maybe you're even gonna find a solution. Just a thought; did you ever lock down the distributor bolt? I'm pretty sure last time I was there we left it loose (can't remember why).

 

This is a common problem with rebuild kits for the 94's. They cover both 94's and 2110's, but the PV seats are different on the two, and the PV they provide is for a 2110. You can get 94-specific PV's from Daytona (linked above) or several other places, including Vintage Speed.

If the seat in the bowl section is hosed, or nicked, then it comes down to the gasket. The nylon type seems to conform the best, cardboard the least. You do need to tighten them pretty good, but remember it's pot metal...

 

BJ, I went back and double checked. The distributor is tightened.
I put the carb all back together, the power valve I think is still leaking a bit and the venturi tube has one port blocked. Since I have a three day weekend, I wanted to get it all back together and look at the dying issue closer, since I don't believe the carb is that issue.

When I put the carb back on, the truck started right up. But I thought it didn't sound as good and there was more smoke. It could be me though.
Here is a video of it running. What do you think?

Tomorrow or Monday I hope to get it out and run it a bit and see if it will die on my and I will check a few things listed in this thread....I guess I had better go back through it and take notes to have when I'm on the road.

 

Have you adjusted the idle needle valves after the cleaning? Was the choke on at the beginning?

 

Joe,
I think I'd give it a good run and then see if it's still smoking. But be sure to be able to chill if it stops running.

 

I didn't mess with the idle needle valves at all.
I need to find a vacuum gauge and set those.

I will plan on taking a cooler and a chair when I get out. I won't travel far. It looks like it will be sunny and 82, so it will be a wonderful day for a drive.

 

As I'm studying this. I discovered I had the idle needle valve and the idle discharge confused.
I just tightened down the idle needle valve.
I have a printout of the 2110 service manual. I will see if I can find info on how to set those. If you have tips, I'm all ears.

 

Well good news! I looked at the 2110 manual I have and it says the idle needle valve needs to be tightened down so they seat then back them off a full turn.
I did that and took the truck out for a drive.

It didn't start off very smooth. I couldn't get it started from the cab. I ended up removing the air filter and was able to get it started under the hood.

After that, all went pretty good. I took it out on the old highway and got it up to 60 mph. I don't think it will go any faster than that with my 4.88 gears. I think I ran at that speed for about half a mile each time. I then drove around town for almost an hour. Later in the drive, I was making sure I did several turns and had to stop and start several times. It all ran smooth.

So, maybe it was a fuel issue all along. If the idle needle valves were down too tight it wasn't getting enough flow.

Now, it seems to be smoking more than it should. I think the power valve is still leaking and the venturi tubes have a blockage in one. I will order those parts and go from there.

I think I will be on the lookout for a 2110 though.
Does this seem to be a good deal?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/381752926122?autorefresh=true
Not sure I want to buy one right away since I have the seat at the upholsterer and I just ordered bed rails for the flatbed project my son is working on for me in Ag Construction. But if I can find one at a good deal, it's best to hop on it.

Thanks for all the help guys, you are the best.

I expect another run this evening and plenty tomorrow. I may even attempt a stop and restart while I'm out later. I was a bit nervous about it on the run today. Oh, when I got back home, I shut the engine off and then started it backup just fine from the cab.

 

Good deal! I would rebuild the carb unless it is not suited for that particular engine or it is too worn to be serviceable.

The one turn out or whatever from seated biz on the idle mixture is just a ballpark initial setting so it will start, and then further tuning can proceed. There will be a definite point where the engine will start to slow down or start to stall as you turn inward. Normally a tach is helpful because the idle RPM screw and idle mixture are interdependent, one affects the other. As the mixture is leaned out, the RPM idle needs to be turned down. One technique was "best lean drop", the idle mixture would be leaned out for about a 50 RPM reduction in RPM from the high point and then the RPM screw brought back up to factory idle or wherever you want it.

 

Yep, usually the number of turns out I've seen on 94's is 1.5 turns.

As to that ebay carb, the only thing I see missing on it is one idle mixture needle screw look "different" and has no spring on it. Easily fixed, decent price. Assume it needs a rebuild.

 

I'm a little unsure of myself at the moment. I know things are running better but I wanted to clarify the two items that I'm thinking of and make sure we are all on the same page.



I will reset the idle mixture screw in the morning. For some reason I remember 2.5 turns, but that was years ago.

 

The one you turned out should be tight. Both of them that screw in vertically should be tight. The idle mixture screws are the ones that are adjustable. They adjust the fuel air mixture at idle.
Edit "B" should be tight, also. 1 1/2 turn is a good start point for the idle, like Ross said.

 

If you're like me, it's usually best to read straight from the horses mouth, especially helpful if they explain why a procedure is performed only a certain way. Sometimes shop manuals can be a little terse but generally do a pretty good job of explaining things. The great thing is how all of the manuals and troubleshooting stuff from "back in the day" is available for download online. Invaluable during disassembly and rebuilding. If you want to start all the way back to Bernoulli, it's there.

Certain procedures are always done in a certain order as well, or need to be redone when another area is worked on because they are interdependent, changing one affects the other. New fuel pump? Better check the float height/fuel level, idle mixture is always checked/set again if say, big changes in ignition timing were made. It's not a major deal, but a little attention to detail makes the difference in easy starts, quick warmup, performance and economy. So generally idle mixture and idle RPM is the very last thing, make sure everything else is where you want it - ignition timing, valve lash, fuel delivery, etc.

You will be able to set it by ear soon enough. For all that, temperature plays a role. If you set it dead on for 5000' feet and 95F, it won't be ideal for January in Ohio. It's usually suggested to set carburetors with air cleaner installed if possible.