If I remember correctly, Joe went thru valve adjustments when he had the engine partially disassembled.

 

That is correct, I did. That was a fun learning experience.
But, it would be good for me to check to see what the valve lash is set at.

I've had the issue with it dying when I come to a stop for some time. This dying and not wanting to start is new. It started happening after I filled the gas tank as well.

You all have given me good stuff to look at.
The way my day at work is going, I need to just run out of the office screaming and go to the garage to work.

 

Good luck! I feel your pain! Let us know what you find.

 

Yep, was going to say the same thing. My carb sweats a lot over here on the east coast. It's pretty neat how cool it gets even though it's 100 degrees here.

So if you richen your mix (via choke), it stays running? Try the foil, or some type of insulator to see if you can fix it, or make it go longer before problems. Also, if you have a fuel filter, where is located in relation to the fuel pump?

 

I need to go through all these suggestions and prioritize them.
I think I will have time this weekend to go through many of them.

I don't have a fuel filter in the line. My glass bowl on the fuel pump is clean. I have a new tank and new fuel lines with a total of about 50 miles on them.

I was a runner at one time. During hot weather, if I ran for an hour or more, my stomach would actually be cold the the touch after the run. I always thought it was neat. All the blood left my stomach to go to my extremities to dissipate heat. I guess the carb is doing something similar.

 

Joe,
Look what's on flee at: https://www.ebay.com/itm/381752926122

 

Interesting!
Their notes say 1 1/16" venturi, Ross said I should have 1 3/16" venturi. Are there that many different sizes, or is the ebay seller off?

I need to pull my carb and measure.
So, I wonder what I could sell a good flathead carb for?
I don't really think my issue is a carb issue, but having a properly sized carb would be the way to go.

 

I would believe Ross before anything else. He is one of those guys that knows way too much about the little nooks and crannies of these machines.(Ross I say that as a compliment) I would absolutely get the correct carb for your Y-Block.
It seems like you want the correct hardware. (you said you would prefer to stick with points and condenser over pertronics) You also mentioned, in the beginning, you knew little about what you were facing. You are doing great!
I definitely get the correct carb. That is a "process of elimination" troubleshooting technique. or in other words, one less uncertainty to deal with.
Maybe your truck ran with that carb for years, and maybe it shouldn't have.
Anyway...that is how I would look into.
You have come along way my friend!

 

i question the existence of a vacuum leak with the duct tape plug on the manifold port.....

 

Oops, the 1-1/16" is correct, although they did make them with different venturi sizes.

The easy way to tell if it's what you want is by the shape of the choke lever where it contacts the choke plate lever. See how wide it is?

You should avoid the ones for an automatic, some unnecessary parts on those.

 

Good catch on the duck tape fix, Ghall. If the truck ran ok with that carburetor before, it will run ok again.

 

Ross...I throw you the compliment and look where it gets me...

 

Good stuff guys, my evening was hectic, so I'm going to have to read everyone's comments again later to make sure I'm not missing anything.

I pulled the fuel line and it pumped gas fine. I assume it is supposed to only pump on the down stroke of the pump.
I then pulled the carb to take a closer look. Well silly me didn't check the gas flow in the carb before pulling it. So I put a little gas in the bowl and pulled the throttle. Gas only came out one of the venturi tubes!!!! Well that will make a difference. I know I've looked at that before and both were flowing (It was probably a couple of years ago.) I will need to play with it more, but I think I'm on to something.

I measured the base and I get 1 3/16". I will remove the base from the carb and measure that.

As for a new proper carb. Yes, I probably should get one but I need to make sure I get the right one. Ross, what shape of choke lever do I need?? Remember, I confuse easily. I'm a little torn though. This is the carb that was on it, so I kind of want to keep it....we will see.

I also spent some time discussing flatbed plans with my son. With those two projects and work, my mind is spinning. Time for bed and a fresh start tomorrow.

I really appreciate all your advice. Oh, any good ways to block that vacuum port? Doesn't duct tape fix everything. That port is for the wipers and I'm nowhere near looking into that.

 

The 15/16, 1-1/16 etc are an internal measurement. To be clear, the carb you have should work with your engine.

The gas that squirts when you pump the throttle comes out of the accelerator pump discharge nozzles, not the venturis. You may not have put enough gas in for it to fully work?

I think what you should do is take the carb apart and make sure everything is there, check the power valve, see what size jets it has, and in general clean it up. Oh, and plug that vacuum connection!

To check the power valve, with the top of the carb off, full the fuel bowl to about 3/4 depth, cover the bowl with a piece of cardboard, and let it sit overnight. (The cardboard is to reduce evaporation). If the gas is mostly gone in the morning, the PV is leaking.

 

Jeff kindly pointed out to me a thing called a vacuum cap.
It's easy to learn something new when you don't know anything at all.

Since I have the carb on the bench and the top off, I will run out and fill the bowl and check it tonight. Then I will check the carb out and see what jets I have.

It looks like I also need to review carb part names.