I am guessing somewhere this topic has been beaten to death, but still...I am curious what some of the folks with 6.0's in the northern states such as myself like to run once the temps start dipping into freezing and stay there for weeks.

We always run a blend of #1 and #2 along with PS anti gel in the five gensets where I work. That said these are not 6.0's.
I have heard that injectors in the 6.0 will fail quickly if fuel gels up, right wrong or otherwise I do know they don't like to be starved too long for any reason.

Any replies and advice are appreciated. This will be the first winter with a 6.0
I do plan to keep running the two stroke oil from wmart......I think it has anti gel properties, and am thinking that since #1 reduces lubricity it is a good idea. I also like how it quiets her down some.

 

Personally, I just go to the local high traffic truck stop and use their "premium diesel" which has anti-gel mixed in and a slightly higher Cetane rating. I also use the PowerService gray bottle in summer months and the white bottle in winter months. Time to switch what I'm buying about now it is starting to dip into the freezing temps here at night sometimes.

 

I use stanadyne fuel additive products that i get at autozone. theres a winter formula, but i usually just use performance. i think it has anti-gel in it..

 

When I lived in Colorado I always just bought regular pump fuel and never had problems, it's treated at the appropriate time of year. If I'm going across regions in the winter (ie: Texas to Chicago) I'll throw in a while bottle of Powerservice until I buy locally where I end up, mainly because I have no idea what passes for winterized diesel in Texas where 40*f magically causes pipes to burst and old people to freeze to death in the streets.

I've done a lot of sub-zero ambient temps with the 6.0 and never once had a gelling problem. Lubbock, Denver, Chicago.

 

Marathon petroleum was notorious for paraffin in their diesel years ago that would gel but now the fuels are better and Bio around me is not in high content. Could not tell you the last time I ever had trouble with fuel in the Winter but I do pay attention when it goes Sub Zero from an Arctic blast.

 

Howdy,

1. TC-W3 2 stroke oil does not have anti-gel "properties", was never tested to reduce the cloud-point of diesel fuel and was never intended to be burned in a diesel engine

2. It also doesn't improve lubricity enough to use it in blended #1/#2 diesel, although it was better than some of the "store bought" additives.
Lubricity "test"



TC-W3 oil is tested for lubricity using NMMA AF27 (ASTM 4863)

www.swri.org/3pubs/brochure/ae/pdf/NMMA-AF-27Lubricity.pdf


I would suggest that, if you want increased lubricity, add 1% biodiesel which has been proven to be the best lubricity improver for D2 or buy an additive known and tested to improve lubricity.

Diesel fuel lubricity is measured using procedure ASTM 6079
Cloud point of diesel fuel is one of the specifications in D975 (Standard Specification for Diesel Fuel Oils)

You can read about it here: https://law.resource.org/pub/us/cfr/...d975.2007.html



The 6.0L fuel injection system doesn't use an injection "pump" like older engines did. The pumps did have problems low sulphur fuel which has been mitigated nowadays.

I guess you could say we have a "hydraulic injection pump" for each cylinder

Our injection systems have had "stiction" problems but it seems to be more motor oil related than fuel related. (It's the oil piston/cylinder sticking instead of on the fuel side)

Another opinion I guess (but backed up by some well known facts)

"I have never used 2-stroke oil in a diesel and have never had a problem" !!!


Regards,


Rick

 

It's not the fuel at the fuel station, it's what is in your truck's tank during the first deep freeze. That is when most people get caught with gelling.

After the first freeze, the stations will start receiving fuel that will be good pretty much for the winter. FOR THEIR AREA! Travel to colder climes, better have some anti-gel in the tank.

I fuel in an area that doesn't see freezing temps very often, but, when I travel 160 miles to the east, I dang sure have anti-gel in the tank for the trip.

I use the white bottle in the winter.

 

According to Chevron the cloud point of #2 diesel is lowered 3'F for every 10% of #1 diesel blend so that is why I used #2 or the winter blend with the white bottle of Power Service or winter Stanadyne here in South and North Dakota with no problem.

 

In Colorado it's state law starting October 1st thru April 1st to have stations treat all diesel fuels for gelling/ cloud point.

I haven't heard of too many having issues with gelling around here since the switch to ULSD. That first initial freeze in 2006 caught everyone off-guard around here.

For myself, I generally do not use any additives unless we get sustained below zero temps.

Josh

 

An isolated incident near me was a truck stop along I-75 last Winter that received bad fuel or over dose of Bio. I guess they had trucks all over the place that froze up and the only way I found out was neighbors Son worked at the Service Center. I pulled in to get fuel and he called my cell phone or I would have been another victim in the bad fuel batch.

One never knows, even a place I bought fuel from many times can bite you.

 

In general, (and this is probably more important for our common rail friends) KEEP YOUR RECEIPTS.

It may be the only thing that gets the fuel supplier to pay for the damage caused by a bad batch of fuel.

//

 

If something does happen, DO NOT use the red bottle of Diesel 911 like a normal additive, as in just dump it all in a try to run the truck.

Read the directions on it, and mix it correctly 50/50% with fresh diesel and soak your filters with the mix (better to replace them if you have a spare set of filters). Don't assume the fuel in the tank is gelled and just dump it into the tank;clear both filters, then check for fuel flow, THEN if the tank or lines have a problem start adding it to the tank until it clears. Odds are that wax crystals will build up in the filters before the entire tank is gelled up requiring the full dose of additive, and the 911 stuff is hard on the fuel system if it gets overconcentrated.

 

That's good to see Josh. Especially starting in October.

I was curious about that and I see that Colorado has different requirements for fuel depending on which side of the state the fuel is sold at. East of the 105* longitude are less restrictive than West of the 105*.

We have pretty much the same issue in Oregon, East of the 122* longitude is colder than the West of 122*.

For Diesel fuel suppliers in Oregon, these are the cloud points they shoot for during the winter depending on which side of the state the fuel is sold. (As far as I know, Oregon does not have a law on cloud points for suppliers) ( I can't say these include bio-fuels)


East of 122* Long Oct. 21.2f, Nov. 12.2f, Dec. 6.8f, Jan. -2.2f, Feb. 6.8f, March 15.8f

West of 122* Long Oct. 32f, Nov. 24.8f, Dec. 23f, Jan. 19.4f, Feb. 24.8f, March 26.6f

 

Appreciate the info Rick, you obviously know a thing or two about fluids after reading some of your other posts.
I starting running the two stroke after reading countless threads of others doing the same thing to quiet the injectors down a bit. I can honestly say I can tell a difference, but also run it because of lubricity.
That said it boils down to $$.......wmart vs the more expensive additives, but perhaps more research on my part would result in using less of something else or better for not much more money. Biggest reason I use the two stroke vs other stuff is it's easy to pick up the stuff.
My comment about the anti gelling properties was not so much as to suggest it was a replacement for anti-gel, rather that it would not cause things to gel up quicker if used in cold weather.

 

I run either Stanadyne Blue Label or Ford's PM22-A, not that we have a problem with gelling