1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

NashvegasMatt's build journey 72'

  #46  
Old 09-02-2016, 08:52 PM
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Yeah, an open breather on the passenger side would get the system working. Right now it isnt even working because of PCV (check) valves on both ends.

You may want to flip the system next time the carb is off... easy to do.
 
  #47  
Old 09-04-2016, 05:35 PM
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9/3

So today I felt like cleaning the interior more...ultimately I will be replacing most of it, but until those funds become available I will have to leave it as is.

After I discovered days ago that the moisture barrier on the doors was gone under the panels I found some thick mil plastic and cut my own...
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After I cut down the general shape with a blade, I then used a generic outdoor caulking to run some strips so it would hold. Not the prettiest but it will serve the purpose.

I also removed that stupid pcv input on the passenger valve cover and put in a breather until I long term determine what I'm gonna do.

Oh yea. Also tightened up the adjuster on the front passenger brake that I changed the springs on and now we are braking well again.

Still having a mental fart on where this oil is coming from that seems to spatter everywhere. I zip tied down the dipstick to at least rule out one spot.
 
  #48  
Old 09-05-2016, 10:11 AM
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Originally Posted by NashvegasMatt
Still having a mental fart on where this oil is coming from that seems to spatter everywhere. I zip tied down the dipstick to at least rule out one spot.
This oil is coming from not having a working PCV system.


BTW when talking left & right on a car or truck it is always when in the seat.
Cant say passenger or driver side because of our down under and across the pond friends who drive on the other side of the road.


With that said the PCV you pointed to on the right rear valve cover gets hooked up to a port on the base of the carb or carb adaptor port if it has one. Not to one of the intake runner port fittings.


The cap with the hose on the left front valve cover gets hooked up to the air filter housing. Think you said the after market filter base has a knock out that a fitting gets installed to. That fitting is a black plastic 90* and uses 2 screws to hold it to the filter base.
That hose from the cap gets hooked up to that fitting to pull in fresh air into the motor.


I think once you have a working PCV system the crankcase will not have positive psi and the oil spots will be gone.
Dave ----
 
  #49  
Old 09-05-2016, 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by FuzzFace2
This oil is coming from not having a working PCV system.

With that said the PCV you pointed to on the right rear valve cover gets hooked up to a port on the base of the carb or carb adaptor port if it has one. Not to one of the intake runner port fittings.

The cap with the hose on the left front valve cover gets hooked up to the air filter housing. Think you said the after market filter base has a knock out that a fitting gets installed to. That fitting is a black plastic 90* and uses 2 screws to hold it to the filter base.
That hose from the cap gets hooked up to that fitting to pull in fresh air into the motor.

I think once you have a working PCV system the crankcase will not have positive psi and the oil spots will be gone.
Dave ----
We've been through that discussion already.
 
  #50  
Old 09-05-2016, 12:48 PM
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Just to point out, the oil spots are primarily front of engine on the alternator side, not the back where that goofy pcv used to be.
 
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Old 09-06-2016, 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by NashvegasMatt
Just to point out, the oil spots are primarily front of engine on the alternator side, not the back where that goofy pcv used to be.
........because the PCV system wasn't venting..........
******************************************
 
  #52  
Old 09-06-2016, 04:00 PM
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Originally Posted by JEFFFAFA
........because the PCV system wasn't venting..........
******************************************
So now that it's venting.... I haven't driven it a whole bunch, but let's just say that I see more oil after another degrease and spray. Where should be my next go to
 
  #53  
Old 09-06-2016, 04:03 PM
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Have the valve cover gaskets been replaced yet?
 
  #54  
Old 09-06-2016, 04:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Brian1971f100
Have the valve cover gaskets been replaced yet?
Not yet. Out of funds for this month.. Lol. But I was going to do that and refinish the covers at the same time.

Anyone recommend a good rattle can spray that will get the job done and last for a while. Obviously powdercoating is the preferred method, but not in my budget at the moment. As someone mentioned earlier I may have to check the rails to make sure they are in good shape when I pull the covers before reinstalling.
 
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Old 09-07-2016, 02:39 AM
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Get the color of your choice in an ENGINE enamel (good to 500 deg). Clean the heck out of the valve covers. I prefer to use a ENGINE enamel primer first, then let that cure. Then spray on the color. But it's your call about the primer.
 
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Old 09-07-2016, 11:03 AM
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Originally Posted by GaryKip
Get the color of your choice in an ENGINE enamel (good to 500 deg). Clean the heck out of the valve covers. I prefer to use a ENGINE enamel primer first, then let that cure. Then spray on the color. But it's your call about the primer.
What GK said. I'd use a dish detergent like Palmolive or similar to scrub them down before painting. Then use alcohol to wipe them down with a soft clean cloth or cotton ***** to minimize lint. Don't use paper towels, They will leave a crap load of lint and some will leave residue that the paint won't like.

IMHO, if you're going to use money on powder coating use it where you'll get the most bang for your buck. Valve covers ain't it. Just my.02.
 
  #57  
Old 09-08-2016, 02:32 PM
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9/8

Here's what my weekend is gonna look like
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  #58  
Old 09-08-2016, 04:58 PM
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Originally Posted by NashvegasMatt
...This may also explain why autozone and oreillys couldn't find the V belt when I went in to ask for a repplacement...
I advise against buying V belts at discount parts stores like the ones you mentioned. The V shaped belts are cut out of a wide piece of laminated rubber. The premium belts have the reinforcement layer near the outer side of the belt. The opposite V shape is sold to econo vendors and ends up with the reinforcement layer near the inside of the belt. You can buy soap, wax, wipers, etc, at a discount store but stick to something like a Napa for belts.

Otherwise looks like you truck is coming along nicely...just keep conquering the problems one at a time and before long it'll be dependable. And since you're in Nashvegas, go have some Hattie B's for me!
 
  #59  
Old 09-09-2016, 09:44 AM
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Originally Posted by Turbo Dog
I advise against buying V belts at discount parts stores like the ones you mentioned. The V shaped belts are cut out of a wide piece of laminated rubber. The premium belts have the reinforcement layer near the outer side of the belt. The opposite V shape is sold to econo vendors and ends up with the reinforcement layer near the inside of the belt. You can buy soap, wax, wipers, etc, at a discount store but stick to something like a Napa for belts.

Otherwise looks like you truck is coming along nicely...just keep conquering the problems one at a time and before long it'll be dependable. And since you're in Nashvegas, go have some Hattie B's for me!
Thanks for the suggestions. I get more misinformation that logic when in the discount stores...lol

Had to stop going to Hattie b's now that it's all famous and whatnot. Not gonna wait for an hour...
 
  #60  
Old 09-09-2016, 09:48 AM
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9/9

So last night I had like 3 hours to kill so I figured what the heck. Let's tackle this leaky vc. Started with pulling, degreasing, and de-muckin this cover... Good grief.
Since I already decided I won't be keeping these VC's, that I would do the quick version and not the OCD version of prep.



Gonna have to pause this post my son just fell off the porch here... Lol
 

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