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1904 Carb Rebuild in My Future?

 
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Old 08-25-2016, 07:23 AM
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1904 Carb Rebuild in My Future?

I got my 215 properly timed. It starts right up and idles nicely. But if I press on the accelerator quickly, it sort of coughs and sputters and wants to die. If I press slowly, I can bring the engine rpm up, but at higher rpm it starts to run rough. I'm pretty sure that this is all carburetor related, but I could be wrong. If it is carb related, what would be the cause of the symptoms that I have described? Like all of the seals and gaskets on my truck, the carb has been dry for almost 24 years. So, I'm sure that a rebuild couldn't hurt. I go online to look for 1904 rebuild kits and see that there are several sub-sets of 1904s, each with its own rebuild kit. I cannot find a model number at the locations on the carb body where a number is supposed to be. Are there generic versions or repop versions of 1904s that don't have numbers? And, the kits do not typically have needle valves or their seats. I know that I have never replaced either while I have been the owner. Would it be worthwhile to replace these? Lastly, It's going to cost $40 for a rebuild kit. I'm wondering if I would make my life a whole lot easier if I just broke down and bought a rebuilt 1904. I found one for $250 at "Carburetor Exchange" website. I am sick of pouring $ into this old truck, but if all my carburetor cares and woes can disappear and stay gone for the next ten years for another $210, then maybe it's worth it. I do not mind rebuilding what I have. I just want to be pretty sure that after doing so, I have dealt with the problem successfully.
 
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Old 08-25-2016, 09:11 AM
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A restored carburetor "can" be the way to go, if done by a competent tech. This is not always the case.
 
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Old 08-25-2016, 10:09 AM
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I'd say it's a good bet your carb's accelerator pump isn't working, which is included in any good rebuild kit. 1904's are very simple carbs, I'd give it a try before spending big bucks.

If your needle is brass, they usually don't wear out. I'm surprised they aren't included in kits, tho. Where are you shopping?
 
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Old 08-25-2016, 12:29 PM
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Hi AlbuqF-1, Of the online carburetor resources that I have come across, "Mike's Carburetor Parts" Welcome to Mike's Carburetor Parts - Your Number 1 Carburetor Parts Store seems to be pretty together.I can get a new idle needle there if need be. The prices appear to be inline with other vendors.
 
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Old 08-25-2016, 12:33 PM
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That's a good source from what I've heard.
 
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Old 08-25-2016, 12:46 PM
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I agree that definitely sounds like an accelerator pump issue, that's where I've seen them get crudded up. I've bought the kits from Mike's and had no issues. The biggest issue with the 1904's seems to be the leaky bowl due to overtightening the bowl screws. I did buy a rebuilt one that worked very well be leaked around bowl. Probably a lot of people rebuilding these might not be aware of that. I think you could get what you need with a simple rebuild. Probably wouldn't hurt even if that didn't cure all your woes if it's been sitting that long. I can almost bet it's carb issues.
 
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Old 08-25-2016, 02:03 PM
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Holley 1904/1960's are almost identical, with 1960's having a slightly larger bore. I have two 1960's and a 1904. The 1904 has never been touched by me, just removed and put away.


I had a problem with my glass bowl 1960 a few months ago, I think some paint from a new air cleaner I cleaned/painted contaminated it and it stopped working(to generalize). I have a standard bowl 1960 that was rebuild and never used a number of years ago.

I have rebuilt these carbs a combined 4-5 times in 7 years, and have old kits to prove it. I've bought kits from autozone, NAPA, CarQuest, and RockAuto. Every one of them came with a new needle/seat.

I was told by a 1904/1960 expert that used to be around that the best kits were Wells, but they don't produce them anymore. I bought an Airtex/Wells kit and it is still new, I can try and take photos if you'd like.

I am a young guy and even I remember these kits used to be ~$24 when I started working on these trucks, so they really aren't cheap anymore.

If you haven't rebuilt and it sat for 24 years, then it totally makes sense it's not running correct.

Just do some reading on remanufactured carb's---whether they're Q-jets, Holleys, whatever.....reman carbs have a BAD BAD name. They are mix 'n matched parts, often incorrectly. Most expert carb rebuilder advicse that if you have a carb with what you suspect are original parts, DON'T GET RID OF IT. Most remans will never achieve that level of correct application.



In fewer words, rebuild the carb and give it a shot. Not every one of my rebuilds turned out the best result, not sure why. But it's worth a try.
 
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Old 08-25-2016, 04:41 PM
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The older accelerator pump pistons were leather, so if they dry out they're no good. Mike's is probably some kind of Viton or whatever, it needs to be rated for gasohol.

I had a 94 on my engine for 5 or 6 years, ran pretty good, but had trouble with the throttle blades being sloppy. I bought a complete, unrestored carb off eBay for $35, put a kit in it, and slapped it on. WHOA! Something must have been wrong with my old one and I didn't realize it, suddenly it was taking off like a rocket. I could never figure out what caused it, but for $35 who cares?
 
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Old 08-27-2016, 08:00 AM
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The carb numbers are where they are supposed to be but very hard to see.
I am getting ready to rebuild 4 out of 5 glass bowl 1904's we have bought off eBay to go on a 3 carb setup.


Lightly wire brush the pad where the fuel line connects. Clean with some brake cleaner. I had a mild acid and jut put a dab on the pad and then cleaned it off.


Then a good strong magnifier and a LED light and a pin and paper.
There is a longer number at the top and then below it you will see List and a number. The list number might be all you need.


Yours should be a ford one and for the most part them seem to be all very close to the same.
graygracy | eBay


Good info here Holley 1900 1V Tech Info - The Carburetor Doctor


Here is a video. Just have to watch out for the two little ***** in it.
 
 
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