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Here are the items I think I need, from his list (SEE UPDATE BELOW)
Sorry about the links, pasting into the site destroys the formatting So this is an image. I have the links if anyone wants them
Please take a look. I don't want to "waste" money, but up to $100, okay. Better than tearing it down and then having to wait a few days on parts.
I have new vacuum tubing to install at the same time.
EDIT TO INCLUDE UPDATED PARTS LIST
Ford Excursion Outer Axle Shaft Kit, to Include:
Outer Axle Shaft P/N 2002692
Vacuum Seal P/N 50491 - Pressed on to Shaft
Dust Seal P/N 50381
U-Joint P/N SPL55-3X
Thrust Washer P/N 47766
Thrust Washer Kit P/N 701166X
Upper and Lower Ball Joint Kit P/N 700238-2X These are from www.venturestruckparts.com for about $280, shipped. There were a couple of items I was missing, plus had them PRESS the seal on the outer axle stub for me.
Use these guys! Very helpful and knowledgeable and friendly. FREE SHIPPING and FAST. Priority mail flat rate was their standard shipping
U have a needle bearing listed but the new hub should come with one installed. Do you already have a seal driver tool?
Okay, I can take that off. Thanks
I don't have a seal driver, but I figure I'll rig something up...Got some pipe, welder, torches, lathe, bandsaw, grinders, and some BIG sockets. Usually find an impact socket, though I haven't done one of these yet
I'm planning to order tomorrow am and get the stuff coming, hopefully for the end of the week/weekend.
Also- how is the best way to support the front end? By the tow hooks? Somewhere better?
Get some jack stands sitting on 2x12's stacked up and bolted together to make up the height if you need to to support the frame of the truck. I always bolt the 2x12's together so that they create one large block minimizing the possibility if them sliding on each other.
Is your Expedition a 4x4 and does that make a difference to the parts you need to do the job? Why do you not want to do both fronts at the same time?
Subscribed in order to save the list of parts needed.
Any particular part of the frame is preferred for blocking?
It's a bit high, so lots of blocks. I have a farmer's jack that fits nicely in the tow loop, then can block it up.
I have a boat load of 2x6's and concrete blocks, so will figure something out for cribbing. I used to have 6x6 pieces, but donated them to my buddy for his mobile home
Yes, Sous, my Excursion is 4x4. The vacuum-actuated-hub-related parts would be different, I think? (seals and orings)
Any reason to go with Motorcraft/oem parts, like the CPS?
Any particular part of the frame is preferred for blocking?
It's a bit high, so lots of blocks. I have a farmer's jack that fits nicely in the tow loop, then can block it up.
I have a boat load of 2x6's and concrete blocks, so will figure something out for cribbing. I used to have 6x6 pieces, but donated them to my buddy for his mobile home
Yes, Sous, my Excursion is 4x4. The vacuum-actuated-hub-related parts would be different, I think? (seals and orings)
Any reason to go with Motorcraft/oem parts, like the CPS?
Thanks
I just got done doing the front end using only Ford parts. I have not been having much luck with Moog lately, although the hubs that came off were Timkens and in good shape still.
Even though you may be able to re use, I would get new nuts for the ends of the studs that hold the bearing on. Better than having to re use in my opinion.
To hold the front end up I just set mine on a jackstand on the front axle tube. It's pretty easy to find a good area to put it. As mentioned, the new hub will have the needle bearing in it. Many of them also come with that yellow o-ring.
If you are going to do the ball joints you may want to rent a press from o'reilly's or somewhere similar. You may have a better press you can use, but the adapters are handy to have.
As for the stub shaft and u-joint, I would say get them coming. You may not need them now, but I guarantee you will at some point in the future.
Lastly, I have the seal tool available if needed. You can make your own tool, but I never had any luck that way. The seal tool has a lot of mass to it, which helps it do its job much better than some pipe.
To hold the front end up I just set mine on a jackstand on the front axle tube. It's pretty easy to find a good area to put it. As mentioned, the new hub will have the needle bearing in it. Many of them also come with that yellow o-ring.
If you are going to do the ball joints you may want to rent a press from o'reilly's or somewhere similar. You may have a better press you can use, but the adapters are handy to have.
As for the stub shaft and u-joint, I would say get them coming. You may not need them now, but I guarantee you will at some point in the future.
Lastly, I have the seal tool available if needed. You can make your own tool, but I never had any luck that way. The seal tool has a lot of mass to it, which helps it do its job much better than some pipe.
I just got done doing the front end using only Ford parts. I have not been having much luck with Moog lately, although the hubs that came off were Timkens and in good shape still.
Even though you may be able to re use, I would get new nuts for the ends of the studs that hold the bearing on. Better than having to re use in my opinion.
I appreciate the insight with the Moog stuff and nuts
I didn't see a kit with a part like the Timken wheel hub assembly. So these would be in *addition* to the Timken part, right?
I know some of you eat, sleep, and breathe this stuff
But for me, I'm reduced to a parts swapping monkey without experience on THESE wheels/hubs.
I'm not afraid to try it, I work on a bunch of different things as needed, but I'm pretty much going to order whatever you guys tell me, then keep putting in the parts until the boxes are empty
Do you think I should use the Spicer part kits? If so, would you be willing to pick a kit for me?
Do you agree I should go ahead and replace the u-joint and axle stub? (I read one post somewhere that mentioned disassembly of the front diff and I don't want to do that if possible )
I can go $100 above what the estimate above was, but I really need to be in the $400 range at the top, unless it's really important. I also don't want to be tearing down the same side and wasting the seals and such in a year
I do not know how these seals sit but I have driven many a seal into its socket with a maul and a short piece of 2x4 or 4x4.
I've driven a fair number of bearings. We have a bunch of sockets of all sizes and types, so usually finding the right outside diameter and wall thickness is possible.
I prefer the impact sockets with the thicker walls.
As you may recall, I recently drove a universal cap and parts right through the other side on my rear driveshaft Maybe I have "too much fun" with it, LOL!
I've driven a fair number of bearings. We have a bunch of sockets of all sizes and types, so usually finding the right outside diameter and wall thickness is possible.
I prefer the impact sockets with the thicker walls.
As you may recall, I recently drove a universal cap and parts right through the other side on my rear driveshaft Maybe I have "too much fun" with it, LOL!
You can drive them crooked with a socket just as well as you can a 2x4. I tap gently at first to insure that the whole seal is making its way into the hole and not just one side of the seal, that will distort it. once it's started and on its way I bang a little harder. One thing about using lumber is that it is not as easy to push the seal in too far as it is with a socket. I never used a 'tool' but I think that they have a flange on them to prevent driving the seal in too far.
08-22-2016, 02:27 PM
So this is an image. I have the links if anyone wants them 
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