Last year I got this old ranch truck off craigslist. It's a 1997 7.3 PSD with low mileage (97k when I got it). It's kinda dinged up, but in good mechanical condition: some latches broken, no AC, small oil seep on top of engine, windshield sprayer busted, some electrical mysteries, etc. The previous owner was this old dude (a retired ford dealer, lol) who ran it on his leisure ranch. He had two of his shell companies on the title, so I guess this PSD was depreciating nicely for him. He unloaded it for $5k even.

Anyhow, last month, I became aware of a major oil leak. It will drip down the back of the engine, onto the starter, and off the bottom of the bell housing after running the engine for 90 seconds. It'll spew out a quart or more in less than 100 miles of driving.

The dude who replaced the AC cleaned it up some and said it had to be the head gasket and he didn't want to tackle it. From threads here and other places, that seemed unlikely to me, so I started tracing the leak.

It's almost impossible to see back there -- the exhaust manifold is in the way and you can't get a mirror or light on most of the spots. So I started packing rags into different places along the dripline and found that it was definitely the plug at the back of the hp oil gallery. From visual inspection, I ruled out that plug twice.

This guy here has a nice video of exactly how to replace that plug:

But when I look at my truck, I don't see any room at all to fit a wrench in there like he does. Am I supposed to be able to do that? Or do I need to start disconnecting stuff from the turbo?

Clearance to remove plug?


Rag packed around plug:

 

You sure it's not coming from the valley of death?

 

yep. cleaned that all out and it's still dry

 

Looks like turbo pedestal leak to me.

 

Sorry, posted in the wrong thread!

 

it's definitely that plug... in above photo, the rag is wrapped around the plug and only the plug. With that rag in place, the drip dont appear lower down and the rag gets oil-soaked...

My question is about the plug replacement. The instructions I've seen don't mention that compressor manifold in the way. Is there a way to get at it that i'm not seeing? or does that have to come out?

 

That is the down pipe as it exits the turbo. It needs to come out to replace that plug. While the down pipe is out, you can upgrade it to one that isn't as restrictive. Like this http://www.riffraffdiesel.com/diamon...iece-downpipe/

Rusty

 

ok, thanks rusty... i'll put in that 3" downpipe along with the plug.

 

Good job on identifying the gallery plug. When you go to do this job just use a Sawzall to cut the dp top off as far down from the top as you can. Go from under and cut as high as you can. It will come out. Some easier than others. The dp will come with some directions as well. That gallery plug is pretty tight . I would order new seals for all 4. Usually when one leaks the others aren't far behind.

 

So can we just replace the o rings or do you have to replace the plug as well?

 

If I remember right Jarrett on Riffraff you can order the whole plugs or just the O rings.

 

Yeah, I just wonder why he would sell the whole plug unless there was a reason... If they never go bad, why would someone need to buy one?

Edit: I guess if the socket hole was stripped.

 

the guy in that youtube video sez the plug was redesigned some time after my truck... they put the o-ring in deeper. he thinks that one plug goes bad coz of heat from the downpipe.... ( this is all rationalizing the fact that i already ordered -one- plug

that downpipe is ordered too, so i guess i'll start cutting out the old one next time it's not raining after work... i'll post fotos of the two plugs to see if theres any difference

now, two questions about the downpipe removal:

1) the video i looked at showed a guy having trouble coz the pipe was not firm under his saw. is it maybe a good idea to do the cuts -before- unbolting it?

2) after the downpipe is out, can i run the engine with it out? it seems prudent to me to test the oil leak repair before putting it all back together

 

Its not a fun job but yes, leave it bolted up as long as you can cut without it moving around. You can run the engine without the downpipe.

 

+2 on keeping it bolted. Not a fun job at all but a very good upgrade