Rough idle!
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,548
Likes: 2,034
From: North Texas
Rough idle!
Okay I replaced my water pump and every gasket from the valve covers up this past week and go to start the truck and it idles it not too good. I made sure (at least I thought I did) the timing was marked and it starts up but it seems to be loping like it has a big cam in it.
If I turn the distributor far one way, it dies. Far the opposite and begins loping more.
Does this sound like a timing problem or something else?
The truck was running fine before this also.
If I turn the distributor far one way, it dies. Far the opposite and begins loping more.
Does this sound like a timing problem or something else?
The truck was running fine before this also.
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From: Still under the hood in O
Rough idle!
Hit Man, it does sound like the timing is off. If you pulled the distributor follow these steps to time it. I do this even if I leave the dist. in just so I know the timing is spot on.
Find TDC on the compression stroke (firing position) by pulling the #1 plug and stick you finger in the hole. Turn the crank until you feel pressure blowing out.
After you have verified #1 at TDC in the firing position. Line up the balancer to 10*BTDC (or wherever you like the timing) and drop the distributor in pointing to the #1 plug wire on the cap.
Now snug up (or loosen) the hold down and turn the distributor all the way retarded (counter clockwise) then hook up your timing light to the #1 wire and turn on the ignition key. Hold the triger on the light and turn the distributor clockwise SLOWLY. When the light flashes your are perfectly timed to 10* BTDC, lock er down..
Find TDC on the compression stroke (firing position) by pulling the #1 plug and stick you finger in the hole. Turn the crank until you feel pressure blowing out.
After you have verified #1 at TDC in the firing position. Line up the balancer to 10*BTDC (or wherever you like the timing) and drop the distributor in pointing to the #1 plug wire on the cap.
Now snug up (or loosen) the hold down and turn the distributor all the way retarded (counter clockwise) then hook up your timing light to the #1 wire and turn on the ignition key. Hold the triger on the light and turn the distributor clockwise SLOWLY. When the light flashes your are perfectly timed to 10* BTDC, lock er down..
Thread Starter
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,548
Likes: 2,034
From: North Texas
Rough idle!
At least it runs, barely so I know I am close with it. Worse case scenario I will have to drive up the street to a speed shop for some assistance.
Okay on that balancer I have 10* BTDC marked. But there are TWO marks on the area for timing. Once says "TIME" the other is blank with a bolt looking thing on it.
Which is the one I need?
If I go to the "TIME" one it begins like it is missfiring. If I go to the other one, it acts like it is about to die...
Okay on that balancer I have 10* BTDC marked. But there are TWO marks on the area for timing. Once says "TIME" the other is blank with a bolt looking thing on it.
Which is the one I need?
If I go to the "TIME" one it begins like it is missfiring. If I go to the other one, it acts like it is about to die...
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Posting Guru
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From: Still under the hood in O
Rough idle!
You want to line up to the one on the right (as you look down at it). I don't know what it says, I can't read mine. The one next to the hole (on the left) is actually at an angle. The one on the right is straight.
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Posting Guru
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From: Still under the hood in O
Rough idle!
That's when I would be checking codes. 
Double check your wires for a bad one. Test your coil out as mentioned. With an ohm meter, unplug it and test both leads in the coil. The resistance should be 0.3-1.0 ohms. If outside of this replace it.
Double check your wires for a bad one. Test your coil out as mentioned. With an ohm meter, unplug it and test both leads in the coil. The resistance should be 0.3-1.0 ohms. If outside of this replace it.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
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From: North Texas
Rough idle!
I am torn on a head/cam swap on this 302 and run that for a while OR build a 392 shortblock and use that with some soso heads.
Heads+cam+labor is ~$1200. I can build a 392 with Probe pistons, long 6.2" i-beam rods, and a 3.85" nodular iron crank for around the same cash....
Heads+cam+labor is ~$1200. I can build a 392 with Probe pistons, long 6.2" i-beam rods, and a 3.85" nodular iron crank for around the same cash....
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From: Still under the hood in O
Rough idle!
?? I would pull the plugs to check them out. You could pull plug wires one by one while it's running. If there is no change when you pull one, check that wire and pull the plug. You could just have a dead plug since it was running fine before the work.