7.3 idi hard start, runs rough
#1
7.3 idi hard start, runs rough
I hate to start another thread on the same topic, but I have literally been searching for a week and trying different things and still nothing. I guess I'm looking for reassurance before I spend money I don't have.
So I bought a '94 7.3 idi auto with 227,xxx miles. I checked the vin and it was born a non turbo, but it has an aftermarket turbo installed. As the title says after a lot of cranking I can get it to run. It seems to idle fine but sounds like it misses every couple seconds, but I can rev it and it responds. Once I put it in drive it will barely get me around the block. It sounds like it missing real bad and I can give it all the pedal and it doesn't do much. If I try to start it even a minute later it will take just as long to get it started again.
So far I have changed the filter and filled with diesel kleen, all new o-rings and return lines, new glow plugs, dropped front tank and checked for debris and checked pickup tube. I literally blew through every line and fsv from tank to lift pump, new lift pump. I put a clear tube from filter to #1 cap and no bubbles. I cracked every injector line and heard a clear drop in rpm from each one. It has a new starter and batteries that are less than 6 months old. There doesn't seem to be a definitive test to prove the IP is bad but that's really all I can think would be wrong.
If there is something i missed let me know and if I need a new IP then it is what it is. I would just like a second opinion before I spend what is a lot of money to me. Thanks
So I bought a '94 7.3 idi auto with 227,xxx miles. I checked the vin and it was born a non turbo, but it has an aftermarket turbo installed. As the title says after a lot of cranking I can get it to run. It seems to idle fine but sounds like it misses every couple seconds, but I can rev it and it responds. Once I put it in drive it will barely get me around the block. It sounds like it missing real bad and I can give it all the pedal and it doesn't do much. If I try to start it even a minute later it will take just as long to get it started again.
So far I have changed the filter and filled with diesel kleen, all new o-rings and return lines, new glow plugs, dropped front tank and checked for debris and checked pickup tube. I literally blew through every line and fsv from tank to lift pump, new lift pump. I put a clear tube from filter to #1 cap and no bubbles. I cracked every injector line and heard a clear drop in rpm from each one. It has a new starter and batteries that are less than 6 months old. There doesn't seem to be a definitive test to prove the IP is bad but that's really all I can think would be wrong.
If there is something i missed let me know and if I need a new IP then it is what it is. I would just like a second opinion before I spend what is a lot of money to me. Thanks
#2
#4
#6
It doesn't look new, but that doesn't mean it couldn't be. I will research what it takes to adjust the timing and see if it makes a difference.
When starting there is a bit of blue smoke. Once it's running there is no smoke until I try to rev it up then there is a puff of blue smoke.
Since my first post I found a complete, running N/A 7.3 out of a 92 with less miles than mine. I was able to get it for less than a new pump, and I know the guy who owns the pickup so I know it has been regularly maintained. I'm still gonna try adjusting the timing but in the end I'm gonna swap out the engines. That way I can use the old engine for parts or re seal it and keep it for a spare. Thanks for all the help.
When starting there is a bit of blue smoke. Once it's running there is no smoke until I try to rev it up then there is a puff of blue smoke.
Since my first post I found a complete, running N/A 7.3 out of a 92 with less miles than mine. I was able to get it for less than a new pump, and I know the guy who owns the pickup so I know it has been regularly maintained. I'm still gonna try adjusting the timing but in the end I'm gonna swap out the engines. That way I can use the old engine for parts or re seal it and keep it for a spare. Thanks for all the help.
#7
I'm sure there's nothing wrong with the engine; if it starts without ether, it's got good compression. It's all fueling at this point, and your "replacement" engine may well have the same or worse issues due to the pump also being worn out(or close to it).
I would probably just swap the pumps; considering that you have an engine now that has good compression and runs(just needs a good IP and probably injectors), vs an engine with unknown other issues.
I would probably just swap the pumps; considering that you have an engine now that has good compression and runs(just needs a good IP and probably injectors), vs an engine with unknown other issues.
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#8
I definitely thought about just swapping the IP, but the few minutes I've had my current engine running there has been a pretty steady oil leak. That's was a problem i was gonna tackle once I got it running good.
The guy I'm getting the other engine from is a friend/ former employer. I have driven this pickup a lot. The only reason he is selling is because it was wrecked and he already bought a new pickup. I know for a fact our only local diesel shop rebuilt the pump just over a year ago because I went down and picked it up.
I can't believe anything the PO of my current pickup told me so i really don't know the condition of the engine. The compressor wheel was pretty chewed up when I bought it and he gave a new one but that just scares me. For the price I paid I could part the pickup out and make money so that is the only reason I bought it, thinking I had nothing to lose.
I'm gonna try and put the turbo on the new engine, I checked shaft play and all appears ok. If it doesn't work out I'll just run it N/A. To me it makes better sense to swap in an engine i have a history with than one I can only guess what has been done to it.
The guy I'm getting the other engine from is a friend/ former employer. I have driven this pickup a lot. The only reason he is selling is because it was wrecked and he already bought a new pickup. I know for a fact our only local diesel shop rebuilt the pump just over a year ago because I went down and picked it up.
I can't believe anything the PO of my current pickup told me so i really don't know the condition of the engine. The compressor wheel was pretty chewed up when I bought it and he gave a new one but that just scares me. For the price I paid I could part the pickup out and make money so that is the only reason I bought it, thinking I had nothing to lose.
I'm gonna try and put the turbo on the new engine, I checked shaft play and all appears ok. If it doesn't work out I'll just run it N/A. To me it makes better sense to swap in an engine i have a history with than one I can only guess what has been done to it.
#9
That changes things quite a bit. A known-good engine that's been taken care of, and known-good IP? Sounds like a plan!
Just get all your tools before starting the project -- I recommend a trip to Harbor Freight if you have one nearby -- and it won't be too bad.
If you happen to have a decent air compressor and a decent impact wrench, it'll be pretty easy -- The motor mount bolts are usually quite stiff after this many years.
Make sure your engine hoist is rated for 2 tons, then use it on the 1 ton or 1/2 ton setting; you need the reach to clear the hood latch with the oil pan.
Also, make sure to remove the oil filter before removing or reinstalling the engine. Otherwise, you'll get it stuck.
Make sure to remove the harmonic balancer and the water pump pulley; the more clearance here the better.
Turbo wise, if you /can/, install the engine with the up pipe installed but the turbo off of it - you can do it with the turbo installed, but there's very little clearance to the firewall as you are installing it.
Just get all your tools before starting the project -- I recommend a trip to Harbor Freight if you have one nearby -- and it won't be too bad.
If you happen to have a decent air compressor and a decent impact wrench, it'll be pretty easy -- The motor mount bolts are usually quite stiff after this many years.
Make sure your engine hoist is rated for 2 tons, then use it on the 1 ton or 1/2 ton setting; you need the reach to clear the hood latch with the oil pan.
Also, make sure to remove the oil filter before removing or reinstalling the engine. Otherwise, you'll get it stuck.
Make sure to remove the harmonic balancer and the water pump pulley; the more clearance here the better.
Turbo wise, if you /can/, install the engine with the up pipe installed but the turbo off of it - you can do it with the turbo installed, but there's very little clearance to the firewall as you are installing it.
#10
Yeah I thought I would have better luck with a know engine as I would like to get it running and dependable for a couple years while I work on building a 6.9 for it.
I have a decent tool selection, and what I don't have I can borrow. We are just now in the process of getting a harbor freight, but it literally just started so it will be a few months but im pretty stoked.
I have a long history with Ford diesels, all being a 7.3 just not an idi. I have never swapped engines but pretty much everything else. I was wanting to try and get the engine out with the turbo so we will see how that goes. I plan on removing the core support so maybe I can sneak it forward enough for clearance. Thanks for all the advice, I will definitely check back if/when I run into issues
I have a decent tool selection, and what I don't have I can borrow. We are just now in the process of getting a harbor freight, but it literally just started so it will be a few months but im pretty stoked.
I have a long history with Ford diesels, all being a 7.3 just not an idi. I have never swapped engines but pretty much everything else. I was wanting to try and get the engine out with the turbo so we will see how that goes. I plan on removing the core support so maybe I can sneak it forward enough for clearance. Thanks for all the advice, I will definitely check back if/when I run into issues
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