Went for the ICM and replaced it since I got a couple of spares, the condition persists. This of course means my 24yo original ICM is still working, I guess I'll leave it in the truck just in case. Tomorrow I'll check the ECM and remove the injectors (servicing them will cost me less than $8, and it's long overdue). Any other suggestions?. I wish I had a MAP sensor to try...

 

Remember that capacitors can be bad without looking so.

 

Encho, borrow a different distributor, if it makes a difference it is a bad Hall Effect sensor inside the dizzy. I ran across this on my '94 F150.

 

Hmmm, that's an interesting input. I'm completely sure the issue is related to the ignition and that's basically the only part that hasn't been renewed yet. In any case I'll get a new distributor and take my core to rebuild.

 

Encho: My miss was caused by crossed sparkplug wires. See post #25 in this thread:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...limbing-2.html

 

Thanks for the idea, already checked my wiring and it definitely isn't the cause, still, there is no harm in re-checking that wire routing again. Also got a sparkplug wire tester, so I'll put it to good use tomorrow.

 

Encho: Hola! Let me rephrase that. I had cross-firing between spark plug wires. check that link for your wire routing schematic. Look carefully at the rubber where plug wires cross (they shouldn't cross) I could actually see the cleaning (meaning removed material) cause by the arcing of the wires to each other.

 

Thanks Tim, I understood clearly the first time. And I was referring to sparkplug wires. Anyway, I'll look for a new distributor, then I'll have the injectors cleaned. I'll also give a look at my new wires for incorrect installation.

 

Doing some research on this subject (specifically PIP Sensors and replacement) I found this very interesting thread, it's related to Mustang 302 engines so it's pretty much the same info, and very through: Help me create the "Surging Idle Checklist" | Mustang Forums at StangNet

I've covered a lot of what's mentioned in there, leaving the PIP as the main suspect as off now. This truck is so old I have taken the replace and test approach (which is also informally called throwing money at it ), any sensor I've replaced will become a temporary spare if required. Just waiting to hear back from my courier (bringing spares to Venezuela can be a VERY bothersome/bureaucratic procedure). I found a US reman sold at RockAuto for $42, no core, whereas in Venezuela I've only found 2 Chinese replacements, one for $90 and another for $160. I'll take my chance with that Cardone reman any time over an overpriced Chinese spare.

 

Did you fix the problem yet?

 

Just yesterday received some capacitors for the ECM, I plan to remove it today. I replaced the distributor to no avail, also had the injectors cleaned and got told they were fine, and not too dirty, apparently only one was mildly obstructed (quite a good outcome since it's been about 10 years since I cleaned them). I'm going to retrieve the ECM today, see if I can replace those caps, then I'll re-test. My battery charger has been a blessing... I've drained the thing 2 times already.

 

Life has got in the way of me fixing this for a long time, but I finally had the time/weather/mood to try and fix this, so today I tried to start the truck once again, the engine turns but it didn't start or sound like it was going to, no combustion whatsoever.

This is a list of what has been serviced or replaced so far, my current suspects are in red:

- ICM (one of my suspects)
- ECT
- Thermostat
- IAC (cleaned, but even if stuck it shouldn't prevent the engine from starting, right?)
- TPS (Motorcraft)
- Distributor (Cardone reman, beginning to think I got a DOA unit, definitely a suspect)
- Sparkplugs (Motorcraft, properly gaped)
- Sparkplug Wires (probably not the best out there, I have another set I can try)
- Ignition Coil (just whatever I could find in Venezuela, another possible cause)
- Injectors (cleaned, was told they were actually working very well, even after 8 years w/o maintenance)
- ECM (replaced 2 caps, with my current luck I might have killed it... but I actually think it's working)

Other recently serviced parts:

- Fuel pump and filter (replaced a year ago with Motorcraft parts)
- Battery (3 days, poor thing had outlived its time, my battery charger wasn't enough to bring it back this time)

So there you have it, that's what has been done so far, the list is easy to read but it has involved a lot of frustrating work... and some learning. Well, what do you guys think should be my next move? I'm considering trying another distributor, even though the new/reman looks like it's perfect.

 

With all the ignition components you suspect may be bad, I would check for spark at the spark plugs first thing. I mean between the wire and the top of the spark plug, you would only need to check one or two.

 

Good idea, surely my new spark-plug cable tester will come handy to make this easier.

 

Part 1 -How to Troubleshoot a No Start (Ford 4.9L, 5.0L, 5.8L). Encho, some good info to look at . When I read through the posts of your initial problem, I though about my problems ,(Greystreak helped me with years back ) I too had the occasional miss and surging(running rough at times) . My 92 wasn't my daily driver and I blindly kept blaming it on ethanol gas . ( truck sitting for days) I would crank it up to the roughest idle and drive 25- 50 miles cut it off and the truck would go normal. On Off for 18 mos. Vacuum leaks none, cross spark -no new plugs wires etc etc etc.He mentioned the tad /tab sensors and ACT sensor ( intake temp sensor) .This sensor indicates to the computer the temp. of incoming air for an ideal fuel air ratio. After locating it (lol) Buying a new act sensor and diagnosing the capacitors (same time) no more problems . Good luck TR