HELLO:
Engine: 351W all stock
I am looking into having my carb cleaned and rebuilt. My other option is to install a new intake manifold and 2 or 4 barrel carb.
Would a new intake manifold and 2 barrel carb give me any more performance then my cleaned and rebuilt 2 barrel carb?
Would a new intake manifold and a 4 barrel carb give me more performance and power (but would burn allot more gas)?

If you were going to give the motor a bit more power and performance what intake a carb set up would you suggest?

Also off topic: Does the emissions air pump do anything or can all that stuff be removed?

 

You sure it's a 351W?

1. "Cleaned and rebuilt". It'll prolly run better.
2. Yes... but sometimes a 4V carb can actually gain MPG because the engine is operating more efficiently.
3. A Performer RPM and a 650 cfm carburetor with vacuum secondaries.

OT:.... If you're not subject to emissions, ditch the equipment.

 

Thank you.
I am not sure it is a 351W. I will look tomorrow. It is a 5.8L motor

A Performer RPM and a 650 cfm carburetor with vacuum secondaries
I found this list. Would one of these work. I do not see a 650 cfm on the list.
Please provide a manifold and carb example of what you think would work best.

 

What list?

You'd better verify what your truck is actually equipped with.

Holley, Quick Fuel, Demon, .... tell you what... order a free Summit Racing catalog and peruse the carb and intake manifold options.

 

Go with the 4 barrel. Choice of carb and manifold is up to you. One thing to consider is the EGR set-up. Do your research about this. Also, consider improving your exhaust to a dual at the very least. Does no good to revamp the intake if you don't improve the exhaust.

 

Engine is 5.8M 351 CID. I verified from the sticker on the valve cover.
Would this set up work
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/s...view/make/ford
This set up has a 600 cfm carb. Would it make sense to set up to a 650 CFM HIO Silver
HIO Silver has suggested. What would I gain buy using a 650 CFM?

 

for the exhaust I want to keep it stock design. If I go with a 2.25 and the stock design would that work? Or what is another suggestion? On the EGR setup I have been told to go non-egr with electric choke. Does this sound good? Please provide your options of what you believe is best.

 

The intake you posted will not work with the M block unless you add spacers. Summit shows it for a "C" block - Cleveland. It has a shorter deck height and will leave you scratching yer butt as to why it won't fit. Look for one that specifies 351M/400. Tim Meyer sells a Weiand Action Plus - $225. Edelbrock Performer 400 is another. Make sure it's a dual plane intake, whatever your choice may be. I also prefer the turkey pan intake gasket - it keeps the hot oil off the intake bottom. Some have used the regular gasket type, your preference.

A 600 cfm carb w/ vacuum secondaries is more than enough for a stock 351M. I prefer a Holley - model 4160, #1850 but some people prefer Edelbrock. The Eddy 1460 is the electric choke, economy model, the 1450 is manual choke, performance model. Maybe you get one with either style choke.

Exhaust: I would strongly recommend headers and duals.... she'll breathe a lot better with the 4v carb....but if you're hell bent on keeping it stock the set up you describe would work....ok.

Dump the EGR sheet...the new intake should come without it anyway. Choke....I prefer a manual choke - no electric stuff to make you scratch yer ....head, but that's just me.

Another thing to keep in mind when you go to the parts store - when asked what engine you have, tell them a 400. Those idjits will give you stuff for a 351W and won't work on an M block. Things like a T stat, valve cover gaskets, water pump, etc. They don't know the difference...just what the computer says. I should say most, not all, don't know their azzz from from their hand.

 

A Performer 400 intake and a 650cfm carb is an excellent combo for a 351M. And X2 on using the turkey pan under the intake.

 

x2 on this statement.


This is what I did to my 351M. Loved the results. https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...the-cheap.html

This is most likely the forum to post questions in. 335 Series- 5.8/351M, 6.6/400, 351 Cleveland - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums

 

351M: 1977/79 F100/350 / 1978/82 Bronco / 1980/82 F150/350.

351W not installed in F150/350 & Bronco until 1981.

 

Take a look at Summit Racing's house brand of carbs. They're still under 300 bucks, dual-feed, vacuum secondaries, electric choke, decent tune right outta the box for a low CR stock engine. If you don't want to tinker w jets, power valves, or metering rods (Edelbrock), this is a good way to go especially for a daily driver.

You'll probably pick up a few MPGs along the way...just stay out of the secondaries


I don't work for Summit, but I've used these a few times and like em a lot.

 

Thank you Jonnyuma. The summit carbs look to be good quality. Are they about the same as edelbrock? how about this one https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-1406/overview/ but on this one it says secondaries are "air valve" Is this the same as vacuum secondaries?

 

This is my set up. Please share your thoughts and suggestions. Also what other parts would you recommend me buying?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cmb-03-0001
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/edl-2171

What gasket set do I need? I can not find the correct gasket set. Or is there a manifold and gasket set combo?

 

The Performer and E-brock 600 is a good combo. The carb should come with gaskets, no need to fart-around with spacers at this point. Order up a Fel-Pro intake manifold gasket set too*. Some Gaska-cinch, oil and water-proof thread dope, and fuel-proof gasket-goo. You may also need Edelbrock's throttle cable adapter, I'm still pretty new to Fords so I can't say for sure. There are some quirks common to Mopars that I'm not sure translate to Fords (like end-rail gaskets, intake bolts into water jackets and oil galleys) so I'll leave that to someone else to comment on. You'll definitely want to get that electric choke wired up correctly...they work really well, unless they don't. IIRC they like a full 12v with the key ON...you'll need to find that wire, something before the ballast resistor, preferably off of the ign circuit altogether.

*I bought new gaskets to reseal an intake vacuum leak a while back and the instructions from Fel-Pro said not to use any gasket-goo. Against my better judgment I followed their instructions and on startup immediately dumped the contents of my cooling system into my oil. If you ever have to un-F a mess like that, you won't do it a second time
... Use the goo.

I would also suggest a torque wrench. Even a dial-type will do. Uneven torqueing of an intake will cause vacuum leaks. Wrenching on it too hard will crack it. It's money well spent.