I have a Polaris Ranger 900 XP. It weighs around 1400 lbs as I ride it. It fits just right into my toy hauler. However, the tie downs on the floor of the trailer aren't in the right spots.

In the graphic below the yellow triangles are where the tie downs are. I normally use tire bonnets on my ATV trailer and I would like to do the same with the toy hauler.

I test fit a length of galvanized pipe across the width of the trailer fitting it into the tie downs on the lower left and lower right. I had thought that it would fit into the tie down in the lower middle but it turns out that the middle tie down is about 4" forward of the outer tie downs. I was going to attach the tire bonnet to the galvanized pipe so that I wasn't putting lateral stress on my ATV's axles/suspension by attaching the bonnet to the outer tie downs.

I looked underneath and the tie downs are anchored into a piece of metal that is then connected to the main trailer frame. There is nothing to tie into underneath that is directly forward or behind where the ATV's tires are. That leads me to believe that adding tie downs that are more convenient would require significant work.

I'm open to suggestions on how to make this work. Plan "B" is to go with ratchet straps from the trailer tie downs to the frame of the ATV.

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/a...1&d=1470015051

 

I like tire bonnets too but like you I have no good anchor points to use them in my toyhauler.

Using ratchet straps I hooked on the back of my rzr, near or on the hitch and tied it to that front center d-ring. Then somewhere on the front of the frame of the rzr to the rear center d-ring. You can do the same left and right if you want but I never did.

Never tie a machine with this much suspension DOWN. You'll never get it tight enough to overcome the suspension bouncing on big bumps and that's how you break a strap or have one come unhooked. I always tie it FORWARDS and BACKWARDS.

 

Yep, I gave up trying to tie down the suspension. My straps always came loose.

 

I changed out the light duty tie hooks for heavy duty ones in the center tie downs, front and back. I put a chain on the rear one that I hook on the front tow hook on my ranger, I pull in until the chain is snug. I have a 3" ratchet strap that is hooked on the front floor tie down, and ran underneath to the back of the ranger and hooked into the receiver hitch. Then I sinch it down and it doesn't move at all. It is quick and easy to load and unload. On the chain I have a removable link on the floor tie down so I can remove if needed, but it is easily laid by the door and out of the way without removing. I have to pull up within an inch of the sliding glass door so I didn't want a hook on the floor mount so I know as I pull in and put tension on it I have no doubt it won't come unhooked and I would drive into the glass.

It has worked for years, 1000's of miles and some real rough dirt roads with no issues.

Leon

 

Possible new Plan "B" is to lay down two lengths of E-track along the path of the ATV's tires. I would then use my existing tire bonnets.

How frequently would I need to tie the E-track into the frame? I think my E-track would need to be at least 9' long to cover both front and rear tires. I'll have to visit my trailer this weekend to see how often lateral parts of the frame occur.

 

Exactly!
Use e channel well supported and the h/d clips and straps. You won't regret it.
I love my E track when hauling and it's fantastic.

 

Today I implemented Trailer Tie Down Plan "A" in my toy hauler. I used black pipe to make a rail that my tire bonnets could attach to.

It seems like Redneck Engineering. It's kind of goofy, but it works. I'll probably stick with it for a while to see how bad it really is to work around/stumble over. Removing the black pipe from the trailer tie downs would take at least 15 minutes and some sweat. The front would take most of that time.

Is the 1/2" black pipe strong enough? I don't know. I have it cinched down moderately tight. Not as tight as I would when using my ATV trailer. It didn't move when I gave the ATV a shove. FYI, the ATV weighs in a bit over 1,400 lbs in full mountain trim. I think the tie downs have enough room to clear 3/4" black pipe.

I don't have any pipe between the front and rear wheels. The front and rear tire bonnets are connected to each other. That's not how I normally do it. There aren't any tie downs in the middle that are convenient for putting in a center black pipe.

Plan "B" is to install 10' of E-Track under each set of tires (front to back). The challenge there is finding suitable anchor locations. The main frame rails of the trailer aren't in a good spot and there aren't many crossbeams to use. The E-Track would be easier to walk on than the black pipe.

Plan "C" is to use ratchet straps through the wheels to the existing tie downs. I'm worried that the angle from wheel to tie down is big enough that it would put too much strain on the wheel bearings.

 

Okay McGyver.
Yes, 1/2 pipe is plenty, especially with the center support even though one piece I believe would be a bit better.
Really, the rear bar is the important one for emergency stopping, never expecting the front move unless you corner like Andretti.
I don't think it will be long before the climbing over the pipe stuff will get old, but hey, for now you can get out there and enjoy!

 

Thanks for the support. I'll take the McGyver comment as a compliment. I've seen every episode.

Long term I think I need to look at relocating the floor tie downs. I'm not real impressed with them in the first place. They are fastened to support brackets using two self tapping screws. Looks kind of sketchy to me.

 

Yep. Not originally designed for the much bigger and heavier side by sides. Worked good for motorcycles in the past, although I've bent those tie downs when pulling down too hard.
Beef them up a bit first.

 

I replaced all the ones that came with my trailer with these. You won't bend them.

 

Unless I am missing something, what is there to stop the ATV from moving side to side? Or is that not really a concern?

I use E-tracks to tie down my Mustangs in my enclosed trailer, I think that is your better long term option.

 

On my regular ATV trailer I didn't have an actual D ring to hook my tire bonnets into. I attached them to the edge of the trailer. I haven't seen any movement, or at the very least, not enough to notice. A buddy of mine towed the same trailer and hit a ditch so hard that it bent the tongue and the axle. The ATV didn't move.

I recognize what you're saying. The hooks on the pipes could move left/right. I'll have to put a piece of tape on either side of the hook to see if or how much it actually does move.

I use E-track brackets on my ATV trailer so I would really like to do the same in my toy hauler. I'm concerned about finding enough places to secure the E-track in the toy hauler.

 

Just seen these updated tiedowns today. They come with a backing plate which would make them incredibly strong.

 

I don't think I want recessed tie downs. I would have to cut into the floor. But the backing plate might come in handy.

These tie downs are almost exactly like the ones I currently have: https://www.amazon.com/Flush-Mount-T...6BVETKXVP9Y8VA

Question: Is a 1200 lb tie down enough? I'm guessing that it is since I would use 8 of them to hold down a 1400 lb ATV.