First post: bought me a truck
#1
First post: bought me a truck
Hello all. I bought a project that partially dismantled. I'm probably in over my head but I'm sure I'll enjoy the challenges I will face as I try to figure out the puzzle in front of me. It's my hope that this forum will be a valuable resource.
The truck is a 1960 F100 with factory 4x4. Has Ford 9" in the back Dana 44 in front with a Spicer 24 xfer case. There is no engine or trans but it would have been a 292 4 speed (T10 I think). The previous owner got it from a salvage yard in Montana and took it apart to clean and paint the frame. He thinks it had a 302 automatic previously. The engine mounts seem hacked and the support bar is cut.
I'm considering hacking it back together rat Rod style to drive it for a year to determine if this is going to be the project that consumes all my waking hours for the next 3 or 4 years.
I might be able to get a 77 460/auto that I used to own, back, or I might do a 390/T10 because I've always liked the 390. If I decide to do a full restoration I would find a good 292 and put it back to original.
I don't have a lot of specific questions yet but I'm sure there will be many as I get started. The thing I'm looking for advice on now is, does my approach seem to make sense and what inexpensive engine/trans would be a good choice to start with?
Thanks for your time and consideration.
I have a decent bed but both lower rear corners are bad.
The truck is a 1960 F100 with factory 4x4. Has Ford 9" in the back Dana 44 in front with a Spicer 24 xfer case. There is no engine or trans but it would have been a 292 4 speed (T10 I think). The previous owner got it from a salvage yard in Montana and took it apart to clean and paint the frame. He thinks it had a 302 automatic previously. The engine mounts seem hacked and the support bar is cut.
I'm considering hacking it back together rat Rod style to drive it for a year to determine if this is going to be the project that consumes all my waking hours for the next 3 or 4 years.
I might be able to get a 77 460/auto that I used to own, back, or I might do a 390/T10 because I've always liked the 390. If I decide to do a full restoration I would find a good 292 and put it back to original.
I don't have a lot of specific questions yet but I'm sure there will be many as I get started. The thing I'm looking for advice on now is, does my approach seem to make sense and what inexpensive engine/trans would be a good choice to start with?
Thanks for your time and consideration.
I have a decent bed but both lower rear corners are bad.
#2
More pics
A few more pics.
I have the correct am radio but oversize fuel and temp gauges.
Have most missing parts but not radiator support, front grill, cowl grill, side emblems, ignition switch, door cylinders and a few *****.
I also have a 1959 hood I'll need to trade for a 60. I have the correct hood emblem.
I have the correct am radio but oversize fuel and temp gauges.
Have most missing parts but not radiator support, front grill, cowl grill, side emblems, ignition switch, door cylinders and a few *****.
I also have a 1959 hood I'll need to trade for a 60. I have the correct hood emblem.
#4
A project for sure. Engine choice is wide open with the divorced Tcase trucks. T10 is a car transmission, you probably mean T98. If/when I need an engine in my 59 4x4, I am going with a 460/ZF/208 because I have access to a free one. I might also investigate a high pinion front diff, not sure on width difference. Higfhboys are cool trucks but I've owned enough of them to tell you they have some serious flaws for any off roading. For one, the front drive line is really easy to wipe out, drop the wheels over a little bank and it will hit the ground. Also that divorced T case is a huge wart, it also hangs down and gets in the way of obstacles. And u joint replacement is a constant chore, especially on the front drive. Seems like about 10,000 miles was the average lifespan of u joints in the front drive line and the splines wear out pretty fast too.
#5
#6
Thanks for the info about wheeling one of these old fridges. We like to explore state forests in a jeep on logging roads. We do some small creek crossings and a few small mud holes but nothing serious. Certainly no rock crawling. We'd like to be able to do that in this truck someday.
Previous owner said it was originally a t10 but you are correct, of course. I now know it was a T98. I wish I could find a good 292/T98 combo I could afford. It looks like they cost 4x what I'm planning to pay for a 460 or 390. Must be all those tbird guys snatching them up.
There's a 460 ready ZF with 208 on Craigslist not far from here. Guy's asking 500. If that's a good combo I might think about mating them to my old 460. Putting in my old C6 auto, even if temporary, somehow seems wrong. Converting my c6 to floor shift will be an effort too. I like that the zf is a five speed. Anybody else running that same combo? I'd probably keep the Dana 24 handy in case I do a restoration. If I decided to sell it, does it have much value?
Previous owner said it was originally a t10 but you are correct, of course. I now know it was a T98. I wish I could find a good 292/T98 combo I could afford. It looks like they cost 4x what I'm planning to pay for a 460 or 390. Must be all those tbird guys snatching them up.
There's a 460 ready ZF with 208 on Craigslist not far from here. Guy's asking 500. If that's a good combo I might think about mating them to my old 460. Putting in my old C6 auto, even if temporary, somehow seems wrong. Converting my c6 to floor shift will be an effort too. I like that the zf is a five speed. Anybody else running that same combo? I'd probably keep the Dana 24 handy in case I do a restoration. If I decided to sell it, does it have much value?
#7
Newer 460 stuff don't mix well with older 460 stuff. I don't think the ZF will mate up to an older engine. Some stuff like heads will interchange, but not intakes. Do your homework before you buy.
I figure if you are going to do a more modern swap, a 302 is too small and any other Ford V8 will use as much gas as a 460 anyway so you might as well go big. Others may not agree. I'm not sure on the value of a 24. They are a good T-case but kinda hard shifting. Another thing to remember about old 4x4s, for some reason the industry thought the front needed to go faster than the rear so if the rear is a 4.10, the front will be a 4.09. Turn off a muddy road onto dry pavement and you play h**l getting the shifter out of 4wd. Most often it takes a certain amount of jumping the clutch while yanking the shifter. Shifter was actually broke off on my 59 when I got it with a big chunk of 3/4" pipe slid over the stub.
I figure if you are going to do a more modern swap, a 302 is too small and any other Ford V8 will use as much gas as a 460 anyway so you might as well go big. Others may not agree. I'm not sure on the value of a 24. They are a good T-case but kinda hard shifting. Another thing to remember about old 4x4s, for some reason the industry thought the front needed to go faster than the rear so if the rear is a 4.10, the front will be a 4.09. Turn off a muddy road onto dry pavement and you play h**l getting the shifter out of 4wd. Most often it takes a certain amount of jumping the clutch while yanking the shifter. Shifter was actually broke off on my 59 when I got it with a big chunk of 3/4" pipe slid over the stub.
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#8
My truck has side mounts and this engine has a front mount. Mine doesn't have a clutch or pedal but I believe it had a hydraulic clutch. This one has mechanical. I think I'd need to find a hydraulic clutch setup or use his clutch pedal. Is that right, and would the pedals transfer?
Both this and the 460 include transmission and radiator and they are exactly the same cost. I'm torn. I know the 460 and c6 will require mounts that add another $250 or so. Not sure about additional costs adding the y block but there will be some, I'm sure. Any advice?
Last edited by Okobojo; 08-08-2016 at 08:25 AM. Reason: Ad pics
#9
#10
Cursed Crossmember!
I bought a used transmission crossmember from a junkyard. They plasma-cut it out of the frame.
I ground down then punched out the 16 rivets on both the new one and my hacked old one.
Hacked crossmember.
It wasn't easy but the cross member is in.
I ground down then punched out the 16 rivets on both the new one and my hacked old one.
Hacked crossmember.
It wasn't easy but the cross member is in.
Last edited by Okobojo; 09-15-2016 at 02:34 PM. Reason: Brevity
#11
My steering wheel was busted up pretty badly and came apart when I pulled it. I've heard of people repairing cracks in old wheels with epoxy. Mine is pretty bad for that but I'm curious if anybody has ever done this? If not, I'm in the market for a wheel, with horn button.
I purchased new rubber motor and trans mounts but they didn't come with bolts and I don't have original bolts for reference. Anybody know what size? A picture I found shows the front motor mounts have a thicker shaft then smaller threaded section. Can I just use hardware store bolts for these? What about bolts with bushings on the shaft? I'm sure the shear strength would be much lower than stock. Thanks.
I purchased new rubber motor and trans mounts but they didn't come with bolts and I don't have original bolts for reference. Anybody know what size? A picture I found shows the front motor mounts have a thicker shaft then smaller threaded section. Can I just use hardware store bolts for these? What about bolts with bushings on the shaft? I'm sure the shear strength would be much lower than stock. Thanks.
#12
Have 2 front center rubber insulators, one above, one below the cross member.
The bell housing has "ears" on it, uses 2 rubber insulators per side. One below the cross member, one above the cross member, below the ear.
#13
Dang, wish you were closer to TX. I have the complete 292/T98 combo out of my 60 just sitting in the barn. Also have the hydraulic clutch setup, stock steering box & wheel and other assorted parts. Just let me know if you're interested in anything. My email is r_m_byrd@hotmail - I'm not on the forum regularly.
#14