Ryobi used to make a cheap auto hammer. We have one at work that we use to break up sugar burgs in the outdoor sugar silo. It delivers 1200 or 1800 or something like that, blows per minute. They are really short stroke and not super powerful as it was intended to drive nails in hard to reach places. We stick a 1/4" rod in it and use it like an air chisel but with less violence. It would work great for buzzing a stuck distributor every now and then to break up the corrosion.

I don't see it for sale any more but you can google "cordless auto hammer" for other options. Sears has one for $55 that looks like it's closing out.

 

I'll look into that. Thanks. Just a quick update, still haven't gotten it out. I bought a can of pb blaster today to see if it will actually make any difference. I've drilled a hole in the remaining pet and put wire through the hole and clamped locking pliers to the wire. This way, I have something to pull against and give me a tiny bit of leverage. Starting to get very frustrated with this

 

Sorry I can't help it....

Basically on the day of your first posting (my dist is stuck) you were given the best advice. Get some good penetrate. That was 7-16. On 7-19 you broke your dist. On 7-23 you stated you needed to get some soon. Finally today 8-2-16 you got some PH Blaster. Kroll is best in my opinion. But...

Do you know it takes days for it to help? That it should have been soaking all this time?

I don't know what a "pet" is that you drilled but I also don't know of any wire that will give you any leverage for this quest.

My advice is to find someone that has the correct mechanical knowledge before you find yourself buying a new engine. Trying to beat this out from the oil pump side will most likely result in breaking the cam so don't. Then you are really *uc*ed.

Sorry to be blunt but this is beyond your skill level and tool set.... You will learn. We all started somewhere. A really frozen dist was a tough starting place for you and for even the most skilled mechanic it's not easy.

This is where "patience is a virtue" comes into play. Drink a beer and let it soak and soak and soak. Spray it down every morning and night for days. Next week weld something a slide hammer can grab into. Soak it down again and hope for the best. You might still get lucky.

.

 

I've been soaking it for almost two weeks now if you read a little earlier. Today, I tried the name brand pb blaster over liquid wrench, that I had been using in the past.

And sorry that's a typo. Meant to say part. I basically drilled a hole on the edge of the remaining bit, then tied a loop with cable. After that, I clamped locking pliers on that wire and have been using this set up to pull/ twist the housing. Otherwise, I don't have anything to hold onto, and locking pliers end up chipping small pieces off.

Thanks for just putting it how it is. For now, I'll keep soaking it until I lose all patience, and after that I'll find a real mechanic. Thanks for the input

 

Shoot, I'd be fed up with it by now. I'd take a good beater and a cold chisel to it as mentioned before. Its not like it's boiler plate steel.....Beat the ever lovin' bejesus out of it!

Have you dropped the oil pan?

 

I'm definitely fed up with it haha. And no I haven't yet. I thought about it, but I was told that would be hard and that I might end up causing more damage to other parts etc. So I'm going to keep trying to pull it from the top for a while longer.

 

I was just thinking (I know, a bad deal...) if the pan/oil pump was pulled you wouldn't have to worry about little pieces of the distributor shaft getting into the engine and not being able to get them out when you beat that bad boy to smithereens....

 

The distributor was a tight fit when new and required a bit of finesse when pulling it.

The trick is to pull straight up with a bit of a twist, tilting it will jam it in the hole. I assume you still have not gotten it to even turn yet, but when you do, you will have better luck tipping it back and forth till you find the sweet spot and then pulling straight up with a twisting motion. Prying hard on one side then the other will jam it altho if you pry hard enough, it will come, but it will be way harder than taking it easy. This assumes it does turn in the block.

You may be able to rig a slide hammer to help break it loose. You'll have to invent some way to attach the slide hammer to the sub. If it still looks like the earlier picture, you could buy some strap or flat steel from the big box store. Bend 2 pieces so that they fit around the small diameter as shown. Try to fit them as tightly to the outside of the small diameter as you can so they grip it. I show sharp bends because I'm too lazy to draw them as curves but however you get it bent is fine. The two inner bolts are placed so they pinch the straps to the stub. The two outer bolts are for attaching the other sides of the triangle, placement isn't critical but you want the sides to meet in the center of the stub so that you can pull straight up.

How you attach the slide hammer depends on what the hammer looks like. If you buy the Las Vegas Tools hammer, it comes with Vice Grips which is kinda cool. Others just have a threaded end. You will need to buy or bend a 90° to connect it to the top of the triangle.

Now that you have the hammer attached, use the slide to pull straight up, with a steady rhythm rather than wildly banging out it. You are trying to break the corrosion, not the stub. Every now and then, tap the sides of the stub back and forth with a hammer and maybe even straight down. I know that seems counter productive but you are trying to break it free at this point. Once it's free enough to spin even a little bit begin twisting, pulling and pushing all the while adding a squirt of your favorite snake oil every now and then. It will take a while, maybe several hours but then it's had decades to get stuck.



Homemade distributor puller

 

using the bracket LaserMike posted, you could also hook it to a cherry picker and pull on it a bit, just to where you see the motor lifting, spray more PB on it and just tap the side of the distributor with a small hammer and a drift, it should scoot up some.

 

That would work even better than the slide hammer, nice steady pull without hitting it too hard. I like.

 

Im no crack mechanic, but have been pulling apart my 390 and the best advice I have received yet is the 50/50 solution of acetone and ATF...... It has been a life saver for getting into and around threads of old rusted everything.... May be to little to late for your dizzy, but there will be other issues like header bolts, spark plugs..... Good luck, it sucks learning the hard way, Im not far behind ya... Hang in there

 

I'm going to try making that bracket today, I've been very busy, but I have all day to work on it today. Unfortunately, I don't have access to a cherry picker. I was told by someone to heat it up really hot, then cool it really quick with ice water or something similar. I'll probably try that today too

 

If you have come-along and tree branch or a rafter or something, you're not trying to use the come-along to pull it out, just to keep upwards pressure on it, whatever lubricant you're using and the tapping on it just to get it to move is what you're looking for. As far as the heating and cooling, the block is cast iron, the distributor is aluminum, I'm not even sure if that'll do anything for you.



What you have left is the part under the wires down, sort of like a little mushroom. Clean the rest of the crap out around there and get you a pipe wrench and try twisting the top of that mushroom with the pipe wrench. Don't put a cheater pipe on there, just get it sort of snug on there and tap tap tap the handle with a hammer. After a few taps, take it off and put it on the other direction, tap tap tap, this will sort of send shock waves and try to break the hold the galvanic reaction has on the dissimilar metals. Don't get frustrated, just keep doing that.

 

I finally got it out! I am so relieved right now. Thank you all very much for the info. I had the wire wrapped on the housing like I explained earlier, then used a long board against the manifold to pry up on it. It up popped up, but was still attached on the gear, so I smacked it and it came free and right out. Thanks again everyone!

 

NICE!!!!!!!