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time to replace rocker arms - your recomendations, tips and tricks

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6.4L Power Stroke Diesel Engine fitted to 2008 - 2010 F250, F350 and F450 pickup trucks and F350 + Cab Chassis

time to replace rocker arms - your recomendations, tips and tricks

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  #31  
Old 12-22-2016, 06:03 PM
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Finally finshed rockers

I am impressed, sounds nice and quiet. What kind of oil are you going to use going forward? Now to clean up and pick up, that can be a job in itself.
 
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  #32  
Old 12-22-2016, 06:22 PM
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I have new 5W40 in it right now.

I think day light savings time I'll switch to either 10W40 or 15W40.
 
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  #33  
Old 12-23-2016, 11:53 AM
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Great job, that sounds smooth!!!
 
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  #34  
Old 12-23-2016, 08:19 PM
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82_F100_300Six has a very good reputation on FTE.82_F100_300Six has a very good reputation on FTE.82_F100_300Six has a very good reputation on FTE.82_F100_300Six has a very good reputation on FTE.
Congrats Speakerfritz you are the man. Plain and simple. Very impressive.
 
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  #35  
Old 12-23-2016, 10:09 PM
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Now that its fixed what are your long term plans for the truck are you gonna keep it for a while?
 
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  #36  
Old 12-24-2016, 10:07 AM
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Originally Posted by 82_F100_300Six View Post
Now that its fixed what are your long term plans for the truck are you gonna keep it for a while?

after driving it around the last two days...decided to keep the truck.

at this point, after doing the rocker job...Im pretty confident I could tackle any other 6.4 misfortune that may come up. at the level of diasssembly I was at, I could have easily replaced injectors, glow plugs, and had the cab lifted enough to do the hPFP if I had to. a few bolts were all that was needed to be pulled to lift the heads to get the lifters out if I needed to do that.

The truck runs very well, better than when I bought it. plain and simple, ford should just put the rocker tips on the service schedule......I've never heard of a case in which the covers were pulled after 75K miles and the tips were found to be good enough to leave in.

there's something up with the intake side vs the exhuast side. the exhaust side looked much better than the intake side. I was tempted to get the new rods shortend on the intake side by at least .010.

I have a new take off DPF and Cat which I want to swap out for the existing one. then later, after I clean the existing cat and DPF, would like to do a dual cat/dpf exhuast setup. cant do a delete since my local does emissions testing.

I'm not planning any tuners, but would like the DB tap shifter and BD exhaust brake.
 
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  #37  
Old 01-02-2017, 02:13 AM
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  #38  
Old 01-02-2017, 09:34 AM
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Any chance for a picture of the jack stands used to raise the cab?
 
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  #39  
Old 01-02-2017, 11:41 AM
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I used 4 cinder blocks to get my jacks in the range they needed to be in.

I used 4 hydralic jack stands and the wooden spacer with the body seam groove in it. note that the 2X4 is cut to 4" square and that they are glued together 90 degrees apart so the grain are 90 degrees apart. put about a teaspoon of oil in the groove after the wood dries. the groove is about 3/16th of an inch wide and 1/2 inch deep. the wooden spacers go on the body seam and the body seam sits in the groove. put the hydralic jack in line with the body seam.

I used 4 jacks and 4 spacers.....but only jacked up one side of the body at a time....you need 1 side with the bolts in place to keep the body bushing holes lined up...so remove the bolts to the side thats going up...and loosen almost all the way but do not remove the side that you are not working on.

you will need to jack the cab up to get to the rear valve cover bolts and you will need to lower and raise depending what other valve cover bolts you are trying to get to. I removed the wheel well liners and did a lot of the pax side work from the side. the drivers side was easy to do from the top engine bay.

dont for get to remove the steering shaft bolt.

since the front of the cab is not going up much, you dont need to disconnect intercoolers and such...most of the lifting will be the back of the cab.

I was able to slide a 1/4 piece of wood between the front body bushing cap and the frame which pretty much told me not very much front cab has to go up at all.

I think the rear went up 4 inches on one side at a time.
 
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  #40  
Old 01-02-2017, 12:01 PM
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Thanks, good to know the details.
 
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  #41  
Old 01-11-2017, 02:21 PM
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I was speaking with a guy I know, cousin of, friend of - you know the deal.... His livelihood is dismantling and rebuilding Superduty trucks, great source for parts and experience.

Anyways, he mentioned that he has placed the rockers from a 6.0L on the 6.4L with no issues. Describes that the only difference is what appears to be an oil hole on the top of the 6.4L rocker arm, yet no oil flows in or out of the hole. That he never sees rocker problems on the 6.0L rockers, only on the 6.4L rockers - I wonder if there was a swap of component manufacturer or if the metallurgy is different between the 6.0L rockers and 6.4L rockers.

A curious question.
 
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  #42  
Old 01-11-2017, 03:46 PM
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i have read that the new part for the new 6.4l rocker arm and the new part number for the new 6.0 rocker arm is the same.

in looking at the new part, there is a difference in some of the shapes and angles.

the hole question is a curious one....I thought that the holes were to let lube in,,,,thinking they come up thru the push rods and roll down the top of the rocker..then into the holes...and becuase of that...i was going to drill out a bevel to catch more oil......but...I read somewhere that the hole is to let oil out that is cuaght by the piviot tips.....I think this might be more true since I found oil on the ends of the valve stems which are underneath the saddles...and there are no holes on the saddles...was thinking of adding some there as well.

I also learned that the new push rods are shorted than the old part number....in analyzing the waer on the tips its seems to me that all the intake tips were badly worn and all of the exhuast tips were in good shape....so I was thinking that at least the intake rods should be shorter...a question shich came up on the aftermarket rods since they were still origninal lenght...i was going to send them back and have the intake ones shorted .010 or so.
 
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  #43  
Old 01-11-2017, 04:13 PM
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Interesting, same replacement part numbers.

This guy says he has stacks of 6.0L rockers he has pulled off of motors, I did not ask his price though I will ($50 per set).
 
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  #44  
Old 01-11-2017, 04:25 PM
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Originally Posted by speakerfritz View Post
....in analyzing the waer on the tips its seems to me that all the intake tips were badly worn and all of the exhuast tips were in good shape....
Possibly stronger springs on the intake valves or different geometry??
 
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  #45  
Old 01-12-2017, 02:04 AM
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Originally Posted by Copper.Farm View Post
Possibly stronger springs on the intake valves or different geometry??
I wouldn't put in used parts. Cost of a new set is only 400 bucks.
 
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