Hey guys,

I have a 2003 F-250 with a 7.3 diesel, 189,000 miles. Had to replace the HPOP, so got a rebuilt one, and installed it. The truck started and idled fine, so I took it out for a test drive. Speed limit is 25 through town, which it did fine, but when I got out onto the highway it has no power. Took about 1/4 mile to get up to 40 MPH when I stepped on the gas for normal entrance onto highway. On the way back, I let is speed up slowly, and reached 40 in just about the same time if I just slightly pushed down on the accelerator. RMPs didn't raise quickly either time like trans was slipping. Any ideas what could be going wrong?

I saw a video by the late Dieseltech Ron, and he said it you hand no power after changing the HPOP fittings, check and see if you lost the spring and small spacer on the bottom of the spring inside the HPOP at the fitting. I haven't had time to remove the fittings, to see if they forgot to install them when the HPOP was rebuilt, but a $707 for the pump + tax, I'm going to be a little ticked if they did. Thanks! Mike

 

Why was the HPOP replaced in the first place? For that price you come have got a T500 HPOP.

 

Sounds like classic low Injector Control Pressure. It could be a bad ICP sensor or Injector Pressure Regulator - before and/or after the swap. It could also be that spring thing on the HPOP. I'm wondering where you got a rebuilt HPOP and what convinced you your old one was bad.

Please see the OBDII tools link in my signature - we need to know what the sensors are telling us.

 

I replaced the HPOP because it was leaking. I couldn't tell exactly where it was leaking from, but it t didn't appear to be leaking from the IPR, the pressure line fittings, or the nut below the fittings. No other symptoms. I got the pump from the local International Truck dealer parts stores. Thanksl

 

Sorry I made a mistake - was late to work. I replaced the HPOP because it was leaking around one of the fittings. I replaced the orings on them fittings about six years ago, and must have over tightened one. When I pulled it last week, there was aluminum from the original pump in the threads of the fitting. Oil had been leaking around that fit ring. New pump and fittings, no leak. Just no power. How do I diagnose the ICP? I don't remember seeing too much oil on the connector when removed to change HPOP. Sent from my phone so sorry about typos.

 

You may want to check the torque on the bolt that holds the HPOP gear on the HPOP shaft. It is not keyed and relies on the friction from proper torque, 95 ft/lbs., to prevent slippage. If there is slippage then there will be low ICP. It can be difficult to get that much torque on it without a bit of help.

It is located behind the cover on the front of the HPOP reservoir. The EBP sensor attaches to the cover.

Check the tin nut on the back of the IPR.

 

Also, it could be as simple as a boost leak. If the tech removed and left one of the CAC boots completely loose you'll be lucky to pull a decent hill or reach 50 mph.

 

Tugly, I'll pick up a OBDII scanner on the way home from AutoZone.

 

Tugly, I'll pick up a OBDII scanner on the way home from AutoZone.

 

They don't work on our trucks, you need something compatible.

 

The springs in the STC fittings on the HPOP won't affect power on the truck. Some remove them to better balance oil flow between the heads. Removing the springs tends to make for a slightly longer start, but won't effect anything else. There is a check ball that you can loose that will cause problems, but it's not at the fittings where the hoses going to the rails connect.

You're going to need something that can monitor live data. If the issue started right after the swap, and it's all put back together right, then you might have gotten a bad HPOP. A bad HPOP will often check out just fine at idle, but watch the pressures under load and that's when you'll see the problem.

 

Link to a thread that gives you options that will work on our trucks:

https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...the-cheap.html

If you have a Windows based laptop, Forscan is hard to beat. For about $15 you are up and running. It is also an awesome tool if you have an Android based phone and a little extra money.

 

Well, turns out is was probably a combination of many things. The front connection (by the radiator) on the drivers side CAC was not fully connected. Hooked it up, and it improved a little. I pulled the ICP connection, no oil, and put it back together. I then tightened the thin nut on the end of the IPR, and then removed and reconnected the IPR electrical connection. Fired it up, went for a drive, and the truck worked fine. Thanks for all your responses!