Front and rear sway bars?
#1
#4
Building a '53 with a 223 for cruising (what else out of a 223 lol). Went with an Explorer rear axle and will use the stock sway bar out back. Kinda looking around for what I can use for the front bar, the Explorer bar won't fit, but I don't want to buy a full kit. Running leaf springs front and back. Any suggestions on a bar for the front out of something else?
#6
Join Date: Apr 2002
Location: Littleton, New Hampshire
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You don't really need a rear sway bar with parallel leaf springs. That said, I did run a rear sway bar on my 48 F-3 converted to F-1 with Volare front suspension. It made the truck handle better around curves with little or no lean. Also, you should never run a rear sway bar without a front one.
#7
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#8
I don't expect you to need (or want) a rear sway bar with the set up you have. A rear bar will add roll stiffness to the rear making the rear looser, a condition which is not the safest for a street vehicle. I would start with a decent sized front bar and see what the handling is like. If the truck really pushes then a rear bar can be used to dial some or all of that push out.
#9
I don't expect you to need (or want) a rear sway bar with the set up you have. A rear bar will add roll stiffness to the rear making the rear looser, a condition which is not the safest for a street vehicle. I would start with a decent sized front bar and see what the handling is like. If the truck really pushes then a rear bar can be used to dial some or all of that push out.
#10
I don't know if that's the best price for what you get part. Just don't be sold on fancy, marketing words. All anti-roll bars are 'dual-action'/'dual-purpose' torsion bars, whether they're a straight bar and arms or a one piece bent bar. They all accomplish the same job (hopefully.) If you like the looks and don't mind the extra money (if it's more expensive than a regular bar), go for it!
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