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We picked up a 1950 F1 as a project and since hauling it home the F250 has been wanting attention.
Last week we changed the coolant tank after observing spot on ground and fresh water was dripping...tank was empty so no obvious issues.
Swapped tank a couple days ago and while looking for leaks observed dripping fuel from regulator so ordered a kit from Amazon last night and it arrived today and it was not too bad of job.
Upon firing it up and watching for leaks we looked at the water tank changed a couple days ago was dark...finger in and it was oily...*&\#\\/&!!!
So more reading here and other places indicates oil cooler leaking which is better than other possibilities.
This explains the oil spot on the ground in same place as the water spot that started all of this.
It is not a daily driver and being in CA we need to keep things stock if possible.
There are lots of threads here involving bypassing the egr and adding external filters and others relating to casting sand or other sources of clogging.
Ours has 170,000 miles on it with about 150,000 or so being fleet miles and the rest since we got it in 2008.
There are multiple sources of aftermarket coolers with Dorman not looking too good per some other folks here.
There are 2 different setups on ebay now both stating upgrades but for 50 bucks compared to oem there must be a reason.
We did get the from ford regulator kit and it went well but the oil cooler looks to be a huge amount of work so we are looking to gain advice from those who do this for a living.
The cooling system seems to be fine, it is over 100 degrees here and it runs same indication as winter.
Has oil in coolant tank so flushing is required.
Back in the day we would open a drain and fill at same rate with engine off until clear then start and idle until clear.
Since the cooling system seems to be good is there a need to get real aggressive in flushing?
Also back in he day they sold a 2 part cleaner with acid and neutralizer but that was then...is there a current day product?
Some have asked about simple green or dawn to cut the oil so has anyone tried that and what was learned?
Lastly looking for a link to a detailed procedure sheet that has all tasks required along with tool list as we do have a good collection of tools but my luck usually gets me at a point beyond the point of no return.
Sorry about the long post but trying to set the scenario so we can have a discussion, thanks in advance...
We picked up a 1950 F1 as a project and since hauling it home the F250 has been wanting attention.
Last week we changed the coolant tank after observing spot on ground and fresh water was dripping...tank was empty so no obvious issues.
Swapped tank a couple days ago and while looking for leaks observed dripping fuel from regulator so ordered a kit from Amazon last night and it arrived today and it was not too bad of job.
Upon firing it up and watching for leaks we looked at the water tank changed a couple days ago was dark...finger in and it was oily...*&\#\\/&!!!
So more reading here and other places indicates oil cooler leaking which is better than other possibilities.
This explains the oil spot on the ground in same place as the water spot that started all of this.
It is not a daily driver and being in CA we need to keep things stock if possible.
There are lots of threads here involving bypassing the egr and adding external filters and others relating to casting sand or other sources of clogging.
Ours has 170,000 miles on it with about 150,000 or so being fleet miles and the rest since we got it in 2008.
There are multiple sources of aftermarket coolers with Dorman not looking too good per some other folks here.
There are 2 different setups on ebay now both stating upgrades but for 50 bucks compared to oem there must be a reason.
We did get the from ford regulator kit and it went well but the oil cooler looks to be a huge amount of work so we are looking to gain advice from those who do this for a living.
The cooling system seems to be fine, it is over 100 degrees here and it runs same indication as winter.
Has oil in coolant tank so flushing is required.
Back in the day we would open a drain and fill at same rate with engine off until clear then start and idle until clear.
Since the cooling system seems to be good is there a need to get real aggressive in flushing?
Also back in he day they sold a 2 part cleaner with acid and neutralizer but that was then...is there a current day product?
Some have asked about simple green or dawn to cut the oil so has anyone tried that and what was learned?
Lastly looking for a link to a detailed procedure sheet that has all tasks required along with tool list as we do have a good collection of tools but my luck usually gets me at a point beyond the point of no return.
Sorry about the long post but trying to set the scenario so we can have a discussion, thanks in advance...
Someday we will get on the F1...
Look up srmastertech on YouTube, he has a very detailed set of videos on the 6.0l including oil cooler replacement and a video called viewer requested tool video showing all the required tools to do most of the work on the 6.0. The one good thing about his videos is he includes torque values as he is doing the reassembly.
Also you must replace the oil cooler before doing your flush and you must use a degreaser like simple green to get all of the oil out.
Also stay away from Dorman and go with OEM on the oil cooler.
I think I saw some of his videos as I was looking for general stuff but there were so many different guys posting it was difficult to determine better/worse so now we have some direction, thanks again.
The truck has no measurable oil loss so it looks like we caught this early and after examination of the old regulator parts it seems the seals were just maybe old and lost their compression and just allowed fuel to seep past so we are assuming same for cooler but for the amount of work involved a new one is going in.
There are 2 different styles of aftermarket units on ebay so one must be the Dorman but what about the other?
Is there a good source for oem?
some kits have much more gaskets and seals than the rest and it seems the egr may need to be lifted out of the way.
For just the cooler will the egr need to be moved and if so will one need to get a different set of seals?
Is there a preferred method for cleaning out the system or is simple green the usual method?
Considering the minimal oil consumption we are assuming minimal leaking so was considering pre and post flush with simple green.
Pre to get as much out until clear then post just to be sure.
Is there something to use to flush the simple green or will just a lot of water do the trick?
And coolant choice is last as prestone us common but me thinks this being diesel there may be something preferred such as the cat stuff on some of the videos.
You get what you pay for and the eBay stuff may be OK for something to be sold but wish to keep on the road so oem it will be.
In reviewing the Chilton manual we will need to lift the intake manifold but the kit looks to be only for the cooler so we assume we will need to get other parts.
Today we did some general cleaning as it is typical diesel and somewhat oily but we used greased lightening and it cut a lot of the mess but ran out...goal is to get everything to bare metal or paint clean to at least be reasonably clean.
The manual also instructs to remove fan but it looks like only alternator needs to be lifted, what gives with that?
I believe it's the OEM gaskets that you must have. Dorman gaskets have a history of melting/disintegrating.
ELC coolant is the preferred choice of noisy on this Forum. However some well respected posters still us ford gold. If you change coolant every 2 yrs, it really shouldn't matter.
I went oem and ELC when I did mine. Intake and egr must be removed. EGR delete should be considered.
I bought my truck after the previous owner replaced a ruptured oil cooler. He didn't flush at all, and the system was a mess. It was pushing 18 degree deltas when I bought it.... 15k miles after the PO replaced the oil cooler without flushing good.
Because you ruptured the oil cooler, I highly recommend a coolant filter.
On the turbo, loosen everything including the exhaust pipe to exhaust manifold bolts. Put anti seize on them. Tighten turbo down to mounting plate. Tighten turbo inlet and outlet. Then tighten downpipe to cat, and exhaust to exhaust manifold. You wont have a turbo leak if you do it in that order. Access the passenger side exhaust bolts through the wheel well.
Don't use rags with a lot of lint. The lint will clog the IPR screen 0 to 1000 miles after you finish the work. Keep the valley clean. I shop vacd mine or as I was doing the work. Stuff rags in the Intake to prevent dropping stuff into the heads.
Poor 2 at a of oil down the center hole of the oil filter base before installing the filter stand pipe. It'll start fight up if you do that. If not, it'll take done cranking.
Don't over torque the oil cooler cap bolts. I did (bad torque wrench I guess). 6 helicoils later, and it'll be fixed.
Spray all exhaust bolts with PB Blaster a day or 3 before you start the work. It'll make life easier. I put antisieze on all bolts that are subject up high tempts but not inside the engine.
Punch a piece of cardboard to hold the Intake bolts where they go. Some have studs, some Don't. You need the studs for anchoring various things.
Alternator removal it's required and easy once you get the technique of rotating the thing.
Intake manifold gasket is reusable of it has been opened up once before. If they're OEM, replace them.
Today we stopped by Lowes and picked up more greased lightening, about 9 bucks a gallon or 26 bucks for 5 so 5 it was.
Reviewed the videos suggested and less worried...did gas engines back in the day so should be okay.
Discovered that the orbit rotor sprinklers just fit the hose fitting for the shop vac so attached a chunk of old air hose and taped it up and was able to cleanly vacuum out the upper tank.
After sitting a day the oil film wss very thin.
Sprayed the cleaner on everything to let it soak and vacuumed out the water and rinsed / repeated then fired it up and rinsed it off with a hose and what a difference.
At 170000 miles it wss the expected gunk in the usual places but looking real good now.
After running no more oil in the water so me got to thinking about things...dangerous but we are a " root cause" person so we need to see cause.
We think the oil seals are tired and no longer as springy like the seal for the regulator.
With the cracked upper tank no water pressure ( not a daily driver so does not usually get warm much) the oil could more freely push past the seals.
With the tank fixed it can hold pressure and maybe no oil crossover.
The cooler should be replaced just because of the amount of work.
Cannot do egr delete because we are in ca, we assume new ones are maybe better quality than older ones or are they the same?
How does one check them or are they just change it while you are there?
Here is an after photo from today's cleaning and we still will do more as we really prefer not working on oily engines if we can avoid it.
Today we stopped by Lowes and picked up more greased lightening, about 9 bucks a gallon or 26 bucks for 5 so 5 it was.
Reviewed the videos suggested and less worried...did gas engines back in the day so should be okay.
Discovered that the orbit rotor sprinklers just fit the hose fitting for the shop vac so attached a chunk of old air hose and taped it up and was able to cleanly vacuum out the upper tank.
After sitting a day the oil film wss very thin.
Sprayed the cleaner on everything to let it soak and vacuumed out the water and rinsed / repeated then fired it up and rinsed it off with a hose and what a difference.
At 170000 miles it wss the expected gunk in the usual places but looking real good now.
After running no more oil in the water so me got to thinking about things...dangerous but we are a " root cause" person so we need to see cause.
We think the oil seals are tired and no longer as springy like the seal for the regulator.
With the cracked upper tank no water pressure ( not a daily driver so does not usually get warm much) the oil could more freely push past the seals.
With the tank fixed it can hold pressure and maybe no oil crossover.
The cooler should be replaced just because of the amount of work.
Cannot do egr delete because we are in ca, we assume new ones are maybe better quality than older ones or are they the same?
How does one check them or are they just change it while you are there?
Here is an after photo from today's cleaning and we still will do more as we really prefer not working on oily engines if we can avoid it.
One thing is for sure you need the proper (OEM) oil filter and oil filter cap as you have an aftermarket filter and cap and they are known to let unfiltered oil past.
As far as I know there are no seals in the oil cooler assembly that would allow cross contamination, the only place I can think where they are in close enough contact is inside the cooler core itself. Of course I could be wrong but I would err on the side of caution and replace the oil cooler at 300 bucks and some quality bonding time with your truck is worth it for the piece of mind imho.
A top side creeper helps too. I've got a cattle guard type bumper. I layed a piece of plywood across the top with a piece of carpet over it. Worked great. I could sleep on that thing. You have to pull the outer cowel on the radiator. I wished I could tell you how that thing comes off, but my memory is foggy.
As I recall it snaps off, but can be broken if forced. I think I bent a "U" in the end of a 1/2 inch wide by 1/16 flat plate. The U part had a very short return. Maybe less than 1/4". I'm sure I'm missing something, but maybe there's a video that shows it.
A top side creeper helps too. I've got a cattle guard type bumper. I layed a piece of plywood across the top with a piece of carpet over it. Worked great. I could sleep on that thing. You have to pull the outer cowel on the radiator. I wished I could tell you how that thing comes off, but my memory is foggy.
As I recall it snaps off, but can be broken if forced. I think I bent a "U" in the end of a 1/2 inch wide by 1/16 flat plate. The U part had a very short return. Maybe less than 1/4". I'm sure I'm missing something, but maybe there's a video that shows it.
Diesel tech Ron has a really good radiator replacement video that shows how to do it.
Today we stopped by Lowes and picked up more greased lightening, about 9 bucks a gallon or 26 bucks for 5 so 5 it was.
Reviewed the videos suggested and less worried...did gas engines back in the day so should be okay.
Discovered that the orbit rotor sprinklers just fit the hose fitting for the shop vac so attached a chunk of old air hose and taped it up and was able to cleanly vacuum out the upper tank.
After sitting a day the oil film wss very thin.
Sprayed the cleaner on everything to let it soak and vacuumed out the water and rinsed / repeated then fired it up and rinsed it off with a hose and what a difference.
At 170000 miles it wss the expected gunk in the usual places but looking real good now.
After running no more oil in the water so me got to thinking about things...dangerous but we are a " root cause" person so we need to see cause.
We think the oil seals are tired and no longer as springy like the seal for the regulator.
With the cracked upper tank no water pressure ( not a daily driver so does not usually get warm much) the oil could more freely push past the seals.
With the tank fixed it can hold pressure and maybe no oil crossover.
The cooler should be replaced just because of the amount of work.
Cannot do egr delete because we are in ca, we assume new ones are maybe better quality than older ones or are they the same?
How does one check them or are they just change it while you are there?
Here is an after photo from today's cleaning and we still will do more as we really prefer not working on oily engines if we can avoid it.
Today we stopped by Lowes and picked up more greased lightening, about 9 bucks a gallon or 26 bucks for 5 so 5 it was.
Reviewed the videos suggested and less worried...did gas engines back in the day so should be okay.
Discovered that the orbit rotor sprinklers just fit the hose fitting for the shop vac so attached a chunk of old air hose and taped it up and was able to cleanly vacuum out the upper tank.
After sitting a day the oil film wss very thin.
Sprayed the cleaner on everything to let it soak and vacuumed out the water and rinsed / repeated then fired it up and rinsed it off with a hose and what a difference.
At 170000 miles it wss the expected gunk in the usual places but looking real good now.
After running no more oil in the water so me got to thinking about things...dangerous but we are a " root cause" person so we need to see cause.
We think the oil seals are tired and no longer as springy like the seal for the regulator.
With the cracked upper tank no water pressure ( not a daily driver so does not usually get warm much) the oil could more freely push past the seals.
With the tank fixed it can hold pressure and maybe no oil crossover.
The cooler should be replaced just because of the amount of work.
Cannot do egr delete because we are in ca, we assume new ones are maybe better quality than older ones or are they the same?
How does one check them or are they just change it while you are there?
Here is an after photo from today's cleaning and we still will do more as we really prefer not working on oily engines if we can avoid it.
The oil filter cap in those photos is not an OEM F series oil filter cap, it's way too tall.
07-04-2016, 01:18 AM
