Shout out to AllAboutMPG for the guide.

We had the top end off chasing a no start and oil leak so had some time.

I took a bunch of photos and made some observations.
Hope this helps someone else to do this. I make make a "How to" pdf if the need arises.

Truck info.
1999 7.3 PSD 240k. Evaporator box never opened. We tried to clean the coil through the blower hole last year, not much help.



Not a lot of room to work.



So I decided to make some room.
Here is the vacuum pump and vacuum reservoir. The vacuum reservoir can be removed by removing the (3) three nuts in the passenger side wheel well.







Here is a shot with the pump and reservoir removed.(P.S. we already had the batteries out.)
And how much room there is to remove the blower motor.







Here is the first view of the coil through the blower motor hole.



You can see how much room there is to work. I am removing the blower resistor. (Less than 1 year old - Motorcraft part)



While I was working on the case, my son started on the blower motor. We had purchased a new Motorcraft motor, so he removed the fan blade for a good cleaning and then put it all back together.





I took my time and really examined this thing. As AllAboutMPG stated, remove the MAP bracket. And also the case support bracket on top. (2) two screws on the case and (2) two on the firewall. The wiring harness is held on by a push pin taped to the harness. I did not want to break my pin, so I carefully cut the tape and released the harness. I pushed it off the bracket after removing it. Also as AllAboutMPG stated there are (11) Eleven case screws. Believe it or not, they are not too bad to access. I did completely remove the dryer bracketry. Extreme caution must be taken once it is loose. You can easily crack a line by pressing down on it. Here is a photo of the (2) bracket screws.



You have to "flex" the dryer toward the engine just a bit to get a nut driver in there. I used a 8mm socket on a 3" extension on a 1/4" drive. In fact that is all I used to get all the screws, some with and without the extension. The top screws I used a longer extension for convenience. Here are a couple of case screw photos.





There is one screws that is a challenge to find. Looking straight at the box from the front of it, it is about in the 5.5 O'Clock position, in an "L" corner. When you get the case off, you will see it.

Once you have all the screws out gently pull the case from the front toward the engine, then pull towards the front. It will release the back (firewall area). Once you have this it flexes very easy for removal.





Here are some case photos.







Using the hard lines, gently pull upward and toward the engine. The Evaporator line sits in a channel you have to clear. Once clear move it toward the engine. The rubber line going to the condenser will flex.







And here is the prize. What we have worked to access. The inner side of the coil, full access. That's just nasty.





As you can see 18 years of Central Calif dust and the occasional dog riding make a lasting impression.

So using your favorite cleaner start cleaning. I started with Scrubbing Bubbles foam. Then moved to degreaser. I used compressed air and tried to blow thru. It did nothing. I ended up using a brass brush from HF and "very lightly" wiped the coil. I did this several times along with several low pressure rinses of water. Also shown is just "some" of the gunk I got out.






And the final. It is actually very clean. The lighting wasn't the greatest.



And finally all put back together.



All in all, it probably took me about 4-4.5 hours. I was not rushing and spent a lot of time cleaning.

I would strongly recommend not to be intimated by this. It was very easy to do, just don't rush and take your time.

Keith

 

Kieth, thank you for accomplishing this and taking some pictures along the way. I did not get a chance to get this done this past mod-fest (winter) and now the truck is visiting SkySkiJason in order to have the ZF6 issues resolved and a bit of upgrading.

I plan to accomplish this once the truck is back in my possession and now that the weather has warmed up a bit I can get it done in the driveway which will allow for rinsing of the coil.

If you have the time and ambition to do a write-up that would be great. I was planning to do a bit of a short video, but start a new job the first week of April so may not have the time then.

I cleaned the coil through the blower motor hole, but I was only able to get to 30% of it or so. The rest is very, very dirty and I expect great things from this maintenance task.

Thanks again, did you notice a difference in the air flow? Probably a bit difficult to notice a temperature change this early in the season though.

 

Just had mine checked an it's full so I'm sure I need this job done also. It's been hot here the last week. It cools but not enough. Looks like at least a weekend job for me. That's if I don't break anything.

 

Bonanza,
Reach out if you have a question.

 

Thank you, I'll let you know.

 

Subscribing... Thanks zoodad! It's one pm that I wasnt looking forward to do, but I ain't going to lie, pics sure make it look dooable.

 

So we are starting to warm up here in Central California. So riding in the truck. 95* outside pulling the boat. 60 mph. AC Max fan on high. 38* out of left center vent. That is with the probe inserted in the vent. I held it out at the edge of the vent. 46* discharge.
No way we were getting that before the clean out. So take the plunge and clean it out.

Keith

 

Very nice write up, I'm saving bit for future work.

 

I am currently collecting parts for modfest 2017 summer edition. I have seat belts, high pressure steering hose, SPST switch for 2wd low gear mod and this is definitely on my list.

Sometimes it is a good to get several points of view on something like this.

I hope to document the procedure as you did, but in video form, but we will see if I have time.

 

Hurry up Sous, that video would be great. Just kidding around but sound great.

 

I keep telling myself the same thing, but between a new job (just retired from military active duty service), state adoption preparation courses and general family business I have had very little time as of late.

I will be getting it done though, maybe over the 4th holiday weekend.

 

It's kinda funny I saw this. I was getting ready to ask the question to someone how they cleaned all of this stuff. C'mon Sous!! Waiting on a video! LOL... But seriously I was palnning on doing this very soon.

I do have a question. Do any of you guys get pretty warm to hot air when you vent is on? When I am towing and I shut my AC off, the vent blows almost hot air. I am really hoping this isn't blend door issue. I just figured it's because the under hood temps are hot from working hard.I can start a new thread if needed. I am not sure if it's a common issue or not.

 

Byron, I do get flowing air when the vent is off, although we have 3 other cars (Mercury, Subaru and VW) and they all do the same thing. I chalked it up to "whatever".

 

Thanks Sous, good to know. I thought it might be alright since the AC blows pretty cold.

 

Byron, this has been covered many times. It's because hot coolant runs threw the box all the time, there for the AC mod. This shuts off the flow of hot coolant, there for letting cool air flow threw. If you try it, it will be hot towing or not. Even when cold outside.