Hey guys I'm new to this site. Having a issue with my 7.3 that I cant figure out so I thought I would try here. I will try to explain this the best that I can. I just finished up a full rebuild. Reason for this I had cracked heads. So here is what I did. New heads sent my injectors to rosewood and had them rebuilt. All new mahle pistons, rings, main and rod bearings. EBPV delete with full 4 inch exhaust. Wicked wheel 2 with blank turbo pedistal. New starter, alternator, cold air intake, belowed up pipes, and a ts 6 posion chip. Probably a few things I'm forgetting. All gaskets and parts I bought and used are motorcraft or oem. Put the truck together started it went to hop out and bumped my chip with my foot and fried the pcm. Sent it out had it rebuilt and programmed. Put it on my truck. Now the truck will crank bUT won't start. Rpm gauge shows around 300 when cranking. Sometimes the oil pressure gauge moves other times it does not. Spray a little starting fluid in her she will start right up. With it running she idles smooth. Unplug icp there is no change, when I unplug the ipr she dies instantly. When she starts to get warm still below normal operating Temps she looses all power and dies. Doesn't matter if it's idling or 2 miles down the road. I can get it to start again when she is warm with starting fluid again but won't idle below 1500 rpm or she dies and the second u put it in gear it dies. Will not start on its on cold or warm have to start it with starting fluid. Any help would be great.

 

It has the symptoms of a weak HPOP or hydraulic leak. Do you have a scan tool that will monitor/log live data?

 

You also may want to go easy on the starting fluid, if it contacts an active glow plug it could mean you starting your rebuild over, well at least a portion of it.

How is your fuel pressure when all this is going on? Do you have a way to monitor / log live data?

Lastly, welcome to FTE!! This is a great forum with tons of great people helping each other out, I am sure we will all help you navigate this issue and hopefully get you down the road soon!

 

Welcome to FTE
Sounds like a stuck IPR, take it out and check to see if it doesn't have any debree any small spec will cause all sorts of starting problems.

 

I do not have a scan tool or monitor. I just ordered the scangauge ll today should be here end of the week. Fuel pressure seems to be good but don't have the tools to test it. Glow plugs are unhooked right now. I had no leaks until tonight when I started it I was pouring oil out of somewhere. I'm guessing the oil cooler but it was to dark to tell. I just put all new o rings and gaskets on it a few weeks ago and was not leaking at all til tonight. I will look better in the day light and see where it's coming from. But it was feom the drivers side leaking down the cross member threw the big opening and onto the front diff. Thanks for the welcome and the help so far

 

This sounds like a classic IPR coil failure. The next time you get it running, have a can of air on-hand (like for cleaning computer keyboards). By inverting the can, you make it a freeze spray. Once the engine stalls, shoot the IPR coil with freeze spray and see what this does for you. It could also be a stuck IPR - that has happened to me, but I had to remove the IPR to "un-stick" it. It was not temperature related.

 

Check fuel pressure at outlet port to the heads. You can get a fuel pressure gauge kit at Harbor Freight for 20 bucks. You should have about 60PSI going to the heads. It's probably either this or IPR as others are saying here.

 

Ok so I finally recieved my new scangauge ll. I would really recommend this to everyone out there. Truck started today without any starting fluid after turning the key on and off about 5 times. Remind you glowplugs are disconnected at the moment. Here is what im reading at idle and then running. I also noticed I now have a pretty bad oil leak coming from the front header of my oil cooler. Will get new motorcraft gaskets and put in. Turning the motor over before it start 65.0 ipr 474 icp. When it first fires 17.6 ipr 817 icp. After 30 seconds running 15.6 ipr 732 icp. Does this help?

 

That all but confirms what I was thinking. You should never see 65% IPR duty cycle on a stock truck with a healthy HPO system. It's probably going to end up being either a weak HPOP, blown injector o-ring(s) or IPR o-rings. Probably one of the first two items . . .

 

Injectors and orings are all new only 5 miles on them. And the orings are motorcraft. So any way to check to see if I need to buy a new hpop before I go dish money out I don't have?

 

Rebuilding the IPR is cheap and people say is not too hard. Rebuild kit $20. Search threads for a how to. Better than throwing an HPOP at it. But if the IPR failure is temp related as Tugly mentioned the rebuild will not fix it, need a new one.

Also check if the tin nut is still snug on the end of the IPR. Do not over torque snug is fine. And if there is oil in the ICP harness connection the ICP sensor need replacing. Not sure if these were covered before but kinda common issues that can crop up.

 

When you said you just finished a full rebuild, I made the mistake of assuming it wasn't literally just finished. If there is still air in the HPO galleries in the heads, it is possible to see 65% IPR duty cycle, and that wouldn't be abnormal. Did you do the assembly yourself? Are you sure the HPOP drive gear was torqued to 96 ft/lbs.?

 

Yes I literally just finished my rebuild. It's got 5.2 miles on it. The hpop was never taken off. I didn't see a need to pull it off as I didn't pull the crank or front cover. And yes all the work was done by me. I did new rod bearings, pistons, rings, heads, and a few upgrades. Along with honing the cylinders.

 

If it's your oil cooler leaking, check the oil and see if you got coolant in there. That is really bad for the bearing.

 

No coolant in the oil. The oil is leaking externally. The lower bolt on the front header is stripped so it's leaking out the bottom. Going to drill and tap it. Coolant is all drained at the moment til I get it fixed. So is there any way to check my hpop or just spend the money and buy a new one? And what do you guys think for a hpop. I want the adrenaline or the terminator twin hpop but don't have that much cash right now.