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...i'll look through my tubs of "stuff" from the tear-down, but that MAF cylinder does not look familiar...
Yeah, that would be a Cali unicorn if it did.
Do you know the year E4OD you've got? It will have some relevance on what ECU & wiring you use.
The alternator bracket can have the air pump portion cut off & it has space for an idler & the tensioner. You don't even have to use the PS/AC bracket. Just a question of measuring out for a belt. You'll have to keep the rotation the same on the water pump. It wouldn't look bad.
Adapting a column shift in an antique, that'll take some fab.
You got any current pics of the recipient's current state?
EGR is a separate system from smog and cannot be deleted without setting codes, but the whole air injection system can be removed no problem and it including the air pump and all associated hoses and valves, just make sure the holes in the back of the heads(f150 motor) or the exhaust manifolds(F250 motor) are plugged and the TAB/TAD solenoid/s near the coil remain electrically connected. If you are installing headers you can disable EGR by leaving the tube off and plugging the hole in the intake so no fresh air gets in but the valve must remain in place with both the electrical and vacuum attached to keep the computer happy. Alternatively adding a bung to the header isn't that hard and functioning EGR does improve gas milage slightly and reduces the engines sensitivity to detonation.
okay, getting closer to putting this all back together so revisiting this thread...
A) i am using headers. where to get bung (and which bung)?
B) best way to plug the holes in the back of the heads?
C) which "tube" is left off from where?
The cross over pipe between heads can be removed & the ports under there are threaded for 5/8ths bolt, coarse (11TPI) threads. Or you can buy spec plugs from a Fox Mustang supplier.
ahh, thanks. never mind on "B" above.
Originally Posted by Scndsin
Its somewhat trick to keep your EGR vac supply & the missing vac reservoir (that little red hose,3 port black vac connector goes to it), but can be done.
You'll need to keep "B" as well. That's your PCV valve. Positive crankcase ventilation.
excellent, thank you kindly!
i see in your sig you're also running the E4OD. this thing is *huge*, but looks like i will be able to shoehorn it in this ol' '52 with some floor mods.
(just finished my custom fab'd mount for it today!)
EGR is a separate system from smog and cannot be deleted without setting codes, but the whole air injection system can be removed no problem and it including the air pump and all associated hoses and valves, just make sure the holes in the back of the heads(f150 motor) or the exhaust manifolds(F250 motor) are plugged and the TAB/TAD solenoid/s near the coil remain electrically connected. If you are installing headers you can disable EGR by leaving the tube off and plugging the hole in the intake so no fresh air gets in but the valve must remain in place with both the electrical and vacuum attached to keep the computer happy. Alternatively adding a bung to the header isn't that hard and functioning EGR does improve gas milage slightly and reduces the engines sensitivity to detonation.
Not to hijack the thread, but why does the F-250 setup have the spider to the exhaust manifolds rather than the cross tube across the rear that the F-150 has? Is there any HP benefit or anything? My new manifolds are tapped but have plugs in those ports, and uses the cross tube... If there is a good reason for the difference, and if it would be beneficial, I'd probably change over- if it was worth it... (I keep stock emissions on my truck- never know where I am going to move to that will have different emissions laws than NJ, where my truck is now EXEMPT form such considerations )
Is connected to the "bung" on the header I showed by this pipe (Which you should still have if you didn't break it)
It is operated by the front solenoid shown here:
Behind it are the 2 solenoids that Conaski mentioned that you need to leave connected to the wiring harness in order to not set codes after deleting the air pump & related plumbing(Thermactor system)
If you are installing headers you can disable EGR by leaving the tube off and plugging the hole in the intake so no fresh air gets in but the valve must remain in place with both the electrical and vacuum attached to keep the computer happy.
I think I will be going this route... which "hole in the intake" needs plugged, and what is the best way to do so? (i.e. I saw where someone makes threaded plugs for the back of the heads for smog removal). Is there something similar offered?
Well, yeah, you could leave that big ole ugly hunk hanging off the side of the the intake & come up with some sort of cap that probably won't seal too well & possibly cause a vacuum leak.
As far as plugs for the heads, a couple of 5/8ths x 11 tpi (coarse thread) bolts an inch long will screw right in after cleaning some of the carbon out of the threads. Some put a copper washer under the bolt head. I just slathered them with anti-seize.
Well, yeah, you could leave that big ole ugly hunk hanging off the side of the the intake & come up with some sort of cap that probably won't seal too well & possibly cause a vacuum leak.
?? Maybe I'm not understanding, but I thought you said that the valve had to remain in place along with the electrical connections? Isn't the "ugly hunk" the valve?
Originally Posted by Scndsin
As far as plugs for the heads, a couple of 5/8ths x 11 tpi (coarse thread) bolts an inch long will screw right in after cleaning some of the carbon out of the threads. Some put a copper washer under the bolt head. I just slathered them with anti-seize.
06-21-2016, 01:32 PM
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