Summer time is here. My fan clutch just cant seem to keep my engine at a cool temp. Where I'm at it gets up to 110. So I'm thinking of removing my fan clutch and going with an electric fan assembly. Ive been looking around.. I guess you can go cheap from a $40 eFan from Amazon up to a $500 efan from flex-a-lite.. Also I've been reading around forum's that the 90-95 Taurus have a really good eFan and some people have been putting these eFans on trucks/jeeps ect.. I have very little space between the radiator and the water pump.. Does anyone know the LxWxH (Length, Width, Height) on these Taurus Radiator eFans? Ive looked all over online and cant seem to get the measurements. I'm more concern on the Width of it, from the back of my radiator to the small bolts where the fan clutch is, on my truck its right under 4inches, that would be the Width. I'm leaning towards getting a Taurus Efan. Since they are about $90 brand new. Also still looking for a wiring harness for an eFan. Any good wiring harness you guys might know?

 

I have a lot of good info for you about the taurus fan, etc., but first of all you should look at your cooling system. How long has it been since you flushed the rad.? Is the thermostat working properly? If your system is not cooling your engine now, then I doubt an efan would do the job.

There are many threads around about the Taurus fan, including mine. My experience is that you'll need the 1 row radiator to have space. Although the shroud will fit, the fan motor is the problem.

After you've read several threads about the Taurus, it is fairly easy to make a styrofoam replica and test fitment before buying one. If it won't work, consider the Contour/Mystique fan. It is a dual fan and puts out 3500 cfm on high. It is only 3.25" thick at the motor, and that makes it perfect for a 300.

Google Taurus fan install and read.

 

Thanks! The radiator is about a year old it's a 2core radiator and the clutch fan is also new but it's just not keeping the engine cool at red lights and highways. If the width of this eFan is 3.25" then I should be okay. It'll be a tight fit though. I'm still researching on this.

 

I've met forum members who were able to position the T. fan to make clearance. I could not do it with my overthick rad. I meant to say the thickness of the fan is 3.25". The Taurus fan is, if I remember correctly, about 5 inches thick at the motor.

Any engine is going to run hotter when it's hot out. Is your engine getting over 220*? or is just running warmer?

My contour fan drops my temp 20* and more in a minute. I think the shroud of the Contour fan is 24X 12". Read the threads. The BMW thermo switch works well, and is inexpensive. Avoid the temp probe in the radiator type switch. They can ruin your radiator. Good luck.

 

It gets a little hot.. The needle moves a bit past the middle of the gauge and I dont want that to over pass the mid of the gauge and overheat. Do you have a link to the BMW thermo switch? Is that what you used?

On another forum I found this site, Hollister Road Company: Cooling Fan Relays and Connectors these kits seem to be the exact relay kits for the Mark Vlll/Taurus eFans. But a lil pricey. What do you guys think?

 

What do I think? As I've stated twice, READ the threads you'll find when you google the topic. All the info is there.

 

Oh, I forgot to mention: Check out the slightly smaller Volvo fan too. Ford put the Taurus motor on them. They also have a super slick relay box that turns on the fan on low, then when the coolant gets to a certain temp, the relay box shuts off the low speed and turns on the high speed. You can get one from the J/yard for $15-$20, use it with a bmw temp switch in the rad. hose, and you'll have a super slick system for very low cost.

Project Taurus Fan - Volvo Relay and BMW Switch - Ford Forums & Technical Discussions

Volvo Electric Cooling Fan

 

I ended up getting a Taurus fan got all the wiring and temp thermo switch. Just have to order a 75amp relay. Apparently these fans when you turn them on they spike up to 60amps and then lower down to 30amps. Thats why I'll be getting a high relay. I rather be safe than "oh shhttt my truck is on fire"
The diaphragm I'm following is this one..


Got the diaphragm from a guy who did the eFan swap on his jeep. Hopefully its right

 

I don't see a provision for the two speeds of the T. fan. It is VERY important that the low speed is shut down when the high speed kicks in or the motor will burn up. That is why I recommended the Volvo controller--inexpensive, and works great, rated for these fans. I carry an extra with me.

Bosch relays are good, but Bueller is better. 8 ga. wire is over kill. One other thing: that adj. controller, where/how does it sense the temp? If it is in the rad., I hope you don't have a aluminum rad.

Good Luck.

 

I think I'm going to just set up one speed or set both speeds on different relays.. I'm not sure yet, when it comes to electrical work, I know Nothing. Im doing my research and trying to figure it out. So far that diaphragm is the easiest one ive seen to read. Looks simple and everything is labeled. Question: would I really need that diode on the fan? Or could I just leave it out? Ive watched vids for diodes and I still don't see a purpose for them.. For a dead end of current?
That temp controller has a probe and yes it goes in the fins on the radiator. I heard that it could mess up a radiator.. For now though ill be installing it like this. Later ill get a temp sensor adapter with a temp switch and install that on the returning line on the radiator.

 

This link gives a good diagram using the volvo controller. 10 ga. wire works well.

Volvo Fan Swap - JeepForum.com

That company you mention earlier, Hollister road, who sells the control systems, also sells the in hose housings for temp sensors.

I've read many threads about installs. Only a few of the people use diodes.
One other thing you need to consider is your alternator. Does it produce ample amps for lights, music, fan, ignition, etc. If you don't have a 100 amp alternator, then your engine could strutter/stumble when the fan kicks in.

 

The alternator is rated at 95amps. I think that should be good.

 

I have an electric fan on a car. When the fan is spinning it can generate enough electricity when the engine is shut off to back feed and keep the engine running. A diode will cure this. So would a relay.