Bronco xlt 87 Crank no start error code 23 23 Throttle Position Higher Or Lower Than Expected
#16
I measured the black wire again tonight, disconnected from distrib. and measured from battery positive 11.9 V (battery 12.4) when measuring resistance black wire to battery negative 0.2 ohms or something like that not full zero. I did not have time to check the 60 pin connector tonight arent these readings sufficient? I will recheck fuel pressure, fuel delivery and ignition timing after the weekend.
#17
I measured the black wire again tonight, disconnected from distrib. and measured from battery positive 11.9 V (battery 12.4) when measuring resistance black wire to battery negative 0.2 ohms or something like that not full zero. I did not have time to check the 60 pin connector tonight arent these readings sufficient? I will recheck fuel pressure, fuel delivery and ignition timing after the weekend.
#18
I did put a spark tester on cylinder 1 and that seems to be working ok see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2z5pw8un-fs
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You should have a blue spark, check this when you get the chance.
In the video, it sounds like the engine is close to firing up, for lack of a better word.
Check the spark on a few other cylinders when you get the chance.
#19
#22
Hi Vinny,
I did the following:
1. Measured fuel pressure again 40PSI see
2. I checked the timing following these instructions Timing ford 289
a. found compression stroke (c1)
b. manually turned the balancer for 10°
c. Rotator was facing straight back.
d. I connected test light to the coil negative and battery positive as shown in timing video. To my surprise the test light did not turn on, however when turning the distribuor 5-10° clockwise the test light was lit. According to the timing video the test light should have lit when at TDC? Does this mean I should have turned the distributor further clockwise until the test light was turned off?
I was not able to check the sparks - but will this weekend.
I will also try to post video of the whole process.
I did the following:
1. Measured fuel pressure again 40PSI see
b. manually turned the balancer for 10°
d. I connected test light to the coil negative and battery positive as shown in timing video. To my surprise the test light did not turn on, however when turning the distribuor 5-10° clockwise the test light was lit. According to the timing video the test light should have lit when at TDC? Does this mean I should have turned the distributor further clockwise until the test light was turned off?
I was not able to check the sparks - but will this weekend.
I will also try to post video of the whole process.
#24
#26
#29
Coil resistance testing;
Remove the High-Tension Coil wire.
Remove the Pos & Neg wires.
Place the test leads from the ohmmeter on the side terminals, one on each side. It does not matter which lead goes where in this case.
This is the primary resistance, and it should read between .4 and 2 ohms.
Move the test lead from the negative post on the coil to the center terminal where the High-Tension Coil wire was removed.
Keep the other lead on the positive post of the coil.
Your coil should have a reading of between 6,000 and 15,000 ohms.
Remove the High-Tension Coil wire.
Remove the Pos & Neg wires.
Place the test leads from the ohmmeter on the side terminals, one on each side. It does not matter which lead goes where in this case.
This is the primary resistance, and it should read between .4 and 2 ohms.
Move the test lead from the negative post on the coil to the center terminal where the High-Tension Coil wire was removed.
Keep the other lead on the positive post of the coil.
Your coil should have a reading of between 6,000 and 15,000 ohms.
#30
Hi Vinny thanx a lot for all your trouble. You wrote:
Is your coil stock?
Yes I got new coil from JEGS.com after this crank no start thing started. The old one was original and I might have it somewhere.
What is your voltage to the coil ?
12.9v before turning engine, while spinning voltage dropped down to 9.0v - 10v
Check the coil wire, do you have a spare?
No spare - but I can get new one after the weekend (travelling abroad tonight :-()
Coil resistance testing;
Place the test leads from the ohmmeter on the side terminals, one on each side. It does not matter which lead goes where in this case.
This is the primary resistance, and it should read between .4 and 2 ohms.
I set voltmeter to 2000 and got 001-002 ohms
Move the test lead from the negative post on the coil to the center terminal where the High-Tension Coil wire was removed.
Keep the other lead on the positive post of the coil.
Your coil should have a reading of between 6,000 and 15,000 ohms.
Only reading I got was when ohm meter was set to 20K - meter reading 8.22 ohms
Hope you can read something from this :-)
Is your coil stock?
Yes I got new coil from JEGS.com after this crank no start thing started. The old one was original and I might have it somewhere.
What is your voltage to the coil ?
12.9v before turning engine, while spinning voltage dropped down to 9.0v - 10v
Check the coil wire, do you have a spare?
No spare - but I can get new one after the weekend (travelling abroad tonight :-()
Coil resistance testing;
Place the test leads from the ohmmeter on the side terminals, one on each side. It does not matter which lead goes where in this case.
This is the primary resistance, and it should read between .4 and 2 ohms.
I set voltmeter to 2000 and got 001-002 ohms
Move the test lead from the negative post on the coil to the center terminal where the High-Tension Coil wire was removed.
Keep the other lead on the positive post of the coil.
Your coil should have a reading of between 6,000 and 15,000 ohms.
Only reading I got was when ohm meter was set to 20K - meter reading 8.22 ohms
Hope you can read something from this :-)