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Bronco xlt 87 Crank no start error code 23 23 Throttle Position Higher Or Lower Than Expected

  #16  
Old 08-02-2018, 07:18 PM
Thorvar
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I measured the black wire again tonight, disconnected from distrib. and measured from battery positive 11.9 V (battery 12.4) when measuring resistance black wire to battery negative 0.2 ohms or something like that not full zero. I did not have time to check the 60 pin connector tonight arent these readings sufficient? I will recheck fuel pressure, fuel delivery and ignition timing after the weekend.
 
  #17  
Old 08-02-2018, 07:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Thorvar View Post
I measured the black wire again tonight, disconnected from distrib. and measured from battery positive 11.9 V (battery 12.4) when measuring resistance black wire to battery negative 0.2 ohms or something like that not full zero. I did not have time to check the 60 pin connector tonight arent these readings sufficient? I will recheck fuel pressure, fuel delivery and ignition timing after the weekend.
Those are good measurements, no need to check the 60 pin...
 
  #18  
Old 08-03-2018, 11:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Thorvar View Post
I did put a spark tester on cylinder 1 and that seems to be working ok see: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2z5pw8un-fs
"
Unfortunately, the quality of the spark is not visible due to the wire in front of the spark.
You should have a blue spark, check this when you get the chance.
In the video, it sounds like the engine is close to firing up, for lack of a better word.
Check the spark on a few other cylinders when you get the chance.

 
  #19  
Old 09-04-2018, 05:03 AM
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Thanx for the tip Vinny, last night I checked the ignition timing TDC is set to 10 (distributor pointing straight back to cyl -1 )

I will check (blue spark) sparks on all cylinders a.s.a.p.
I will make some recordings and post.
 
  #20  
Old 09-04-2018, 11:54 AM
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At some point, you need to confirm your actual Fuel Pressure reading....
 
  #21  
Old 09-04-2018, 11:56 AM
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I will measure fuel pressure as well.
 
  #22  
Old 09-08-2018, 07:38 AM
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Hi Vinny,

I did the following:
1. Measured fuel pressure again 40PSI see
2. I checked the timing following these instructions Timing ford 289
a. found compression stroke (c1)
b. manually turned the balancer for 10
c. Rotator was facing straight back.
d. I connected test light to the coil negative and battery positive as shown in timing video. To my surprise the test light did not turn on, however when turning the distribuor 5-10 clockwise the test light was lit. According to the timing video the test light should have lit when at TDC? Does this mean I should have turned the distributor further clockwise until the test light was turned off?

I was not able to check the sparks - but will this weekend.

I will also try to post video of the whole process.
 
  #23  
Old 09-08-2018, 06:25 PM
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Looking good b'y....
Good fuel pressure to the gauge...
 
  #24  
Old 09-10-2018, 05:21 AM
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I checked the cyl one spark and it looks very weak, at least I don't see any blue sparks. I was getting low on battery (now recharging) will test again tonight.


I have replaced:
1. coil
2. sparks
3 spark plug wires
4.Distributor cap
5. Rotator arm
 
  #25  
Old 09-10-2018, 05:24 PM
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Check the spark coming out of your new coil.
 
  #26  
Old 09-12-2018, 07:56 AM
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Hi Vinny, I did the spark test from coil - distributor - spark wire - spark plug see video

Looks like Im losing spark power along the way - my guess would be bad spark wires (even though they are brand new)
 

Last edited by Thorvar; 09-12-2018 at 08:27 AM. Reason: youtube link
  #27  
Old 09-12-2018, 01:22 PM
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Is your coil stock?
What is your voltage to the coil ?
Monitor that voltage the next time you spin her over.
 
  #28  
Old 09-12-2018, 02:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Thorvar View Post
my guess would be bad spark wires (even though they are brand new)
Check the coil wire, do you have a spare?
 
  #29  
Old 09-12-2018, 03:03 PM
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Coil resistance testing;
Remove the High-Tension Coil wire.
Remove the Pos & Neg wires.

Place the test leads from the ohmmeter on the side terminals, one on each side. It does not matter which lead goes where in this case.
This is the primary resistance, and it should read between .4 and 2 ohms.

Move the test lead from the negative post on the coil to the center terminal where the High-Tension Coil wire was removed.
Keep the other lead on the positive post of the coil.
Your coil should have a reading of between 6,000 and 15,000 ohms.
 
  #30  
Old 09-12-2018, 07:01 PM
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Hi Vinny thanx a lot for all your trouble. You wrote:
Is your coil stock?
Yes I got new coil from JEGS.com after this crank no start thing started. The old one was original and I might have it somewhere.

What is your voltage to the coil ?
12.9v before turning engine, while spinning voltage dropped down to 9.0v - 10v

Check the coil wire, do you have a spare?
No spare - but I can get new one after the weekend (travelling abroad tonight :-()

Coil resistance testing;
Place the test leads from the ohmmeter on the side terminals, one on each side. It does not matter which lead goes where in this case.
This is the primary resistance, and it should read between .4 and 2 ohms.
I set voltmeter to 2000 and got 001-002 ohms

Move the test lead from the negative post on the coil to the center terminal where the High-Tension Coil wire was removed.
Keep the other lead on the positive post of the coil.
Your coil should have a reading of between 6,000 and 15,000 ohms.
Only reading I got was when ohm meter was set to 20K - meter reading 8.22 ohms

Hope you can read something from this :-)
 

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