I have had it since 2010 and it had 110k on it. I have not done a spark plug change yet and don't know if it had one before.

Question is: should I just go ahead and get COPs or just do the plugs and boots. The COPs are about $40 a piece, so pretty pricey but if make sense I will do it.

I hate to get in there and do all the work and wish I had done it. If it were under $200 for the COPs, I would just do it, but at $400....

I should add that I don't have any specific misfires or ignition issues. I had it in the shop for some other work and they checked the codes and they said it had alot and some electrical in nature but I have not yet seen the specific list.

Thanks.

 

You should get the list and correlate the code to description. If you want to do the spark plug change, get Motorcraft plugs and the boots too. If you do not have a misfire right now, I would not replace the coils. They are easy to get to afterward. You may however buy 1 or 2 just in case you have one go out.

 

After I posted, I did a bunch more reading and this is what my plan has become.

 

Get the list of codes - is the MIL on?

As for changing the plugs, spray a bit of penetrating oil down the holes the night before. Wait overnight. In the morning, crack the plugs loose, no more, and then spray a little bit more penetrating oil (NOT WD40 unless it says "penetrating oil" on the can).

Hopefully you have an air compressor - put the air chuck in the hole, cover with a rag, and then blow the crud out - it'll be messy but worth it. Once you're sure you go all the crud out, them remove the plug CAREFULLY - if it hangs up, thread it back in 1/8th turn, spray some more penetrating oil, and wait. Try again. Before the plug comes out fully, blow it out again and make sure you get all the crud.

You might be lucky, and it's clean in there, and they come out easily, but you can't be too careful

Of course, doing this while laying across the radiator support is not fun

Anyway, I'm sure if you read this forum, you know the rest of the procedure

Let us know how it works out.

Back to the codes - if there are a lot of them, and you find one of them is for a tranny sensor, chances are the alternator blew a diode, and the resulting "noise" in the electrical circuit is driving the computer nuts.

 

Krewat
Thanks. I have ordered the parts and specialized tools. I have a '05 5.4 F150 to do as well.

I have a air compressor and all the needed tools, penetrating oil, etc. so it should make it all easier.

 

I got the list of issues and I misunderstood the shop. There were actually no electrical codes. Mostly ABS codes and some misc others.

I changed all 10 plugs. The back 2 had never been done.

It is running better than ever. No more pinging which was obviously occasions of no detonation due to bad plugs.

Also had the steering box replaced and it drives soooooooo much better. It had gotten really bad.

 

Good news!!