By the breadth of modifications you've performed, it sounds like you are quite adept with wiring. Can you go into more detail about these WedgeLock and AuVeCo connectors? Perhaps a link for info would be helpful

 

I've done my share, converted a 1985 K-LeBaron convertible from 2.6L w/feedback carburetor to 2.2L turboII (intercooled). That was fun! Truck has been a work in progress. Here is a screenshot of my information thus far, I was mistaken on the big wedgelock, .110 not .125.




Dorman can be ordered from RockAuto, the AuVeCo stuff I get from Clips and fasteners (http://www.clipsandfasteners.com/)

 

Hi 85,

Any progress on this project? I am looking to do the EATC retrofit to my 1994. My biggest question is how the new electronic blend door actuator mounts to the existing heater box? Any cutting or reconfiguring needed?

 

No, I haven't had a good chance to R&R the dash to do the fit up of the blend door and locate the two halves of the control assembly. I have been busy on my Konvertible trying to get it in a condition to start assembling it.

 

I have a mount that I make, it's 3d printed, it mounts the blend door actuator perfectly and also comes with the blend door "key" to fit the blend door to the actuator. PM me if interested.

 

Ok, I haven't really been in a position to do much on this, but I recently acquired a dash and complete HVAC system from a 1995 F450. This gives me the needed pieces to fit and experiment with. First is the inside duct layout.



This is the real problem, on most of the EATC systems on cars and later trucks, the panel and defroster ducts are fed from the mode door, either up, half or down. Half allows a second door to select panel or defrost giving the extra position of panel/floor in addition to the def/floor that we have in the trucks.

 

The next piece of the puzzle is the inside case, the one the heater core sits in. This contains the temperature blend door, mode door and defroster door.













As can be seen, the mode has only two positions, up (open) for panel vents and down (closed) for heat and defrost. The defroster has three positions, heat (closed, full up) mix (halfway) and defrost (open, fully down).

On a 1996 Thunderbird the panel controls have eight positions, MAX A/C, A/C, PANEL, OFF, PANEL & FLOOR, FLOOR, FLOOR & DEF, DEFROST. Our trucks have seven positions, MAX A/C, NORM A/C, VENT, OFF, FLOOR, MIX, DEF. To arrive at the difference, first the Mode door has to have three positions, Up (Panel and Defrost) midway (Panel or Defrost and Floor) and down (Floor), second, the panel and defrost ducting has to originate at the mode door then have a second mode door to select between Panel and Defrost. Due to the design of the truck ductwork, that isn't a viable function, it would require the Defroster and panel ducts be together from the existing mode door and have a new Panel/Defrost door installed in the ducts.

 

This, unfortunately precludes the direct use of the later controls which have a very nice split system, the control head is very compact and the vacuum valves are located close to the HVAC case which sits completely inside the cab instead of half under the hood. I did find a unit that uses the same distribution design in a later Crown Victoria and Grand Marquis. The problem is it's size, it is all one control head with the wiring and vacuum in the back. It will not fit in the space between the mounting point (which it fits perfectly) and the duct assembly. Now that I have an extra dash, I may see if the ducts can be cut out for it to slide into. I am also going to look at doing some rearrangement of the area where the 1992-1996/7 ducts (all one piece) come past each other to move the Defrost function into that area allowing the Mode door to become three positions so the later more compact control head (and steering wheel controls) can be used. In this case, the defogger system would have to be tapped from the Defrost duct.

 

Some more playing with the 1999 Crown Victoria unit, the blower speed control. On the Crown Victoria it is mounted under the hood on the evaporator case in the discharge side where the already cooled air blows over it. On the truck system, that side of the evaporator case is fairly narrow and mostly occupied with the vacuum reservoir. The opening where the present blower resistor sits is large enough for the power transistor and heat sink, but the mounting area isn't.


1999 Crown Victoria EATC blower speed controller on truck evaporator case.



It fits in the hole but doesn't clear the case.

 

I'm following this one, very interested to see how it turns out!

 

Here are two more pictures of the Crown Victoria blower controller fit.


Looking down from the top, you can see where the connector will not clear the case angle.



Inside showing the hollow rib and the circuit board.

 

 

Bringing some life back to this thread since it's a current one with good details. I just picked up all the stuff I needed finally to do this, been playing hell trying to find a complete donor. I did screw up tho and forgot the blower motor controller and the exterior temp sensor.

Thats all I have to add to this for now, I go back to work Monday and I highly doubt I'll be getting started on it this weekend. Next days off (after Thanksgiving) I plan to start working on all of the fitment aspects to this. This weekend, I'm going back to the car to get my forgotten items, and rewiring my wife's Ranger for a/c where it's a factory heat only truck. Also laying down new carpet, just finished swapping in buckets and a true console.

 

Hi I stumbled upon your message saying you have the ability to make a blend door actuator Mount for Obs Ford. Let me know if that’s still possible and what you’d want for one. Thanks

 

Is this still an active thread? I do have peg that is 3d printed but the mount was something I fabbed up using a piece aluminum rail purchased from Home Depot. I can print them off and send them for a few bucks I can also look into making a mount and 3d printing them. I really would like more information on how this project was completed. Particularly into wiring into the PCM and how the controller was modified to fit into the dash without hitting the vent behind it.

I did a Cummins conversion on my truck and no longer need the PCM. I'm looking to remove it all together but don't want to lose functionality of my AC. So far that seems to be the only issue I've found with removing the PCM.