1961 - 1966 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Slick Sixties Ford Truck

Recommendations for a Quality Throwout Bearing?

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Old 05-18-2016, 08:17 AM
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Recommendations for a Quality Throwout Bearing?

I recently replaced the clutch/flywheel on my 66 F100 240 3.03. I used the AC Delco 381101 kit and the throwout bearing was immediately noisy. At first it was noisy whenever the clutch was disengaged, but that went away. Now it's been about 1500 miles and it screeches right at the point wear the clutch grabs while engaging, but only does this when the truck is cold-- maybe the first 1 or 2 shifts. From what I've read, this means the throwout could soon fail. So, I'm looking for a high quality replacement. The best looking option I've found so far is the Hays 70230, which is a self aligning bearing that is supposed to fit my truck. Any opinions on this or other TO bearings?
 
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Old 05-18-2016, 02:13 PM
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Were it me, since these parts have been made for 50+ years, I'd hunt down something manufactured more than say, 25 years ago.

There are excellent bearings being manufactured today, but that's not the way to bet. Some NOS should not be too difficult to find and won't cost more.
 
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Old 05-18-2016, 07:55 PM
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I agree with Ted. Otherwise, avoid anything associated with Fenco.
Eric
 
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Old 05-19-2016, 08:01 AM
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I've been looking for some nos since you suggested it, but haven't come up with anything yet. The original ones were 2 piece, so that makes it a little tougher.
 
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Old 05-19-2016, 09:23 AM
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Also, some are listed as either up to 10" clutch or over 10.4", but the measurements are the same. Others don't specify. I'm using an 11" clutch.
 
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Old 05-19-2016, 11:39 AM
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Need a Ford part #, betcha they were used for a bunch of applications? Gotta be plenty out there sitting on shelves. Maybe even in your hometown even.

Most bearings have an industry number stamped on them, and can be used to cross reference. Try calling Green Sales, or NOSpartsltd, maybe they can help.

http://www.gizmology.net/bearings.htm

(452! pages)

http://www.skf.com/binary/79-66347/457013.pdf
 
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Old 05-19-2016, 02:21 PM
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I think N1439 is a correct part for my application. I found an NOS Borg Warner N1439sa (which I believe is the "self aligning" version). There's also an N1439 made by Borg Warner. This one was only about $17 shipped, so I went for it.
 
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Old 05-19-2016, 05:00 PM
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From ... where?? The name on the box doesn't mean anything these days. I see you found some NOS though.
 
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Old 05-19-2016, 05:20 PM
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I found it on eBay. Seems legit enough, the seller has tons of parts that say they're from a dealership that closed down. The box and bearing are pictured, and the patent number on the bearing matches up with what it's supposed to be.
 
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Old 05-19-2016, 05:41 PM
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Excellent, I'd sleep a lot better knowing good parts installed. Don't mind maintenance but dislike duplication of effort. Cheap crappy parts don't ever save money, just the opposite.
 
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Old 05-19-2016, 05:52 PM
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I wish I could totally blame the parts on this one. I was guilty of using the bolts to pull the transmission in the last inch or two. It was probably not aligned right and blew the TO. I won't do that a second time.
 
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Old 05-26-2016, 06:19 PM
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Here's an update on this-- I suspected a leak from the transmission input seal might also have been causing my squeaking noise (especially since it was just the first few shifts). I did replace the pilot bearing and rear main seal when I did the clutch. I pulled the transmission, replaced the throwout with the part I mentioned above, and found no leak from the transmission. But, I've got a pretty good leak from the oil pan gasket. From the service manual it looks like that could get into the bellhousing where the oil pan meets the bearing cover.

I got the trans back in and aligned properly. I used a combination of 6" bolts with the heads cut off as a guide (had to take the top 2 out when it got close to give it a little play), keeping the clutch disengaged with a piece of 2x2 wedged on the pedal, and playing with the angle of the engine with a floor jack just in front of the bellhousing. Once the angle was right, it slid right in the last 2 inches.

The results are great, no more noise from the throwout or screeching when shifting, vibrations from 2000-2500 rpm are gone, and shifts are waaay smoother. I almost don't have to think about what my feet are doing now. It was getting to be a chore before. So, I don't think the leak was the culprit. But I got the oil pan gasket and found the right gasket for the oil pickup tube and I'll be taking care of that next.
 
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Old 05-26-2016, 10:59 PM
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Interesting, thanks for the update too. You didn't feel like taking pics during those operations? Clutches and all that are a big "here be dragons" kinda deal on the repair map for me. Didn't know throwout bearing did all that.
 
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Old 05-27-2016, 02:49 AM
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Sorry, I should have taken some. I'm no expert, still figuring things out I go. It's a pretty messy job, and kind of a pita with jack stands and a creeper, but there's nothing magical or scary in there. Just have to take your time and do it right. I'd be happy to talk you through it if you ever have to try it.

I think the real issue was that I didn't get the transmission aligned right the first time. I used the mounting bolts to force it the last couple inches. I think that caused the shifting symptoms and quickly wore out the throwout bearing.
 
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Old 05-27-2016, 08:16 AM
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Join the club. I did something similar installing an engine. I can't remember exactly what happened but the just of it was I didn't have the release lever in the right place as the engine slipped into the bell housing. Everything tightened down fine but boogered a finger on the pressure plate...dag gummit.


Edit: As my memory comes back, it did not tighten down fine and that's how I found it. But the damage had already been done.
 

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