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Toyota Power Steering Install (1956 F100)

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Old 05-17-2016, 12:03 PM
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Toyota Power Steering Install (1956 F100)

I decided to do a thread on my power steering install that someone in the future can reference.

Here is what I bought (Mid Fifty items bought during 10% off sale):

Used Toyota power steering box: $125
New pitman arm, CPP on ebay: $55
New sector nut: $7
Bracket from Mid Fifty: $85
Column drop (Ididit) Mid Fifty: $70
U Joint Mid Fifty (CPP): $72
floor plate Mid Fifty: $32
floor plate bolts Mid Fifty: $6.75
Hose Kit CPP (called them direct): $75
Ididit column, tilt only black powder coated (Mid Fifty): $445
Wheel Vintique '40 steering wheel from Speedway: $275
(shipping) $28

Already had:
HD tie rod
new (extended) drag link

Other (not included in cost):
bit to open up holes in frame $5
pitman arm puller $12 (useless)

Justification: Wanted a tilt column. Also, so my wife and other friends can drive it one day...when it actually runs. Everyone is scared of driving my '65 because of no power steering, even though it's not that big of a deal...

Approx Total Cost in parts/shipping so far: $1,275
 
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Old 05-17-2016, 02:03 PM
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I have my truck pretty much stripped apart, so instal shouldn't be very difficult.

Obviously not much to say about removing the old box/column. I removed the floor plate, unbolted everything, the three bolts on the box/frame, the two on the steering column mount, and brought it out from inside the cab.

I attached the new column drop (the recommended 4.5" drop) under the dash in the same slotted holes as the old mount. I don't know if it will be necessary to stiffen that area up at all, but seems fine to me.
 
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Old 05-17-2016, 02:13 PM
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Column drop under dash
 
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Old 05-17-2016, 02:14 PM
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The rubber pad on the bottom of the frame towards the back of the spring won't fit anymore with the bracket in place.
 
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Old 05-17-2016, 02:17 PM
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I am going to open up the hole in the frame for the shaft a little bit more. I'm using a drill with a cutting bit, and it doesn't work that great...

I also need to open up the bottom bolt hole just a hair. As I can't get the bolt to line up and go in.
 
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Old 05-17-2016, 07:58 PM
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You need a file, would make quicker work of that!
 
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Old 05-17-2016, 10:29 PM
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Originally Posted by Jules The Great
You need a file, would make quicker work of that!
I'll get it tomorrow with either the cutter I have or a file. But at least I'm almost there!
 
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Old 05-18-2016, 12:21 AM
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Looking nice, I like that column support piece. I see you only have grade 5 bolts holding the box in now, is that what came with the kit or are you planning to upgrade to Grade 9?
 
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Old 05-18-2016, 08:35 AM
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Originally Posted by Jules The Great
Looking nice, I like that column support piece. I see you only have grade 5 bolts holding the box in now, is that what came with the kit or are you planning to upgrade to Grade 9?
Yes, the bracket came with the hardware from mid fifty. It came with grade 8 bolts and nuts for the box to bracket bolts with nyloc nuts. They included the grade 5 bolts with a lock washer for the frame to bracket. I agree grade 8 wouldn't hurt, but I guess I'll stick with it for now.

Looks like they supplied the same bolts in this article for classic trucks.

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/1311-ford-f-100s-power-steering/

That article has been the only resource/instructions I could really find. It's a pretty straightforward install, I think maybe that's why people don't have pics and "instructions" in their build threads. For something we talk about so much, I figure who doesn't like pictures of someone actually doing it!
 
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Old 05-18-2016, 08:40 PM
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Got the holes opened up and all fits well. Mocked up the column, floor plate (pre made from mid fifty), drop, and steering wheel.

I am really happy that the floor plate lines up and the drop seems a perfect length. Very happy with the way it is all fitting. Now have to get the brake arm to come through the hole just right.



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Old 05-18-2016, 10:57 PM
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Had to test it with the seat. I'm planning on using the stock seat, but getting new foam and cover. Currently, had plenty of room even with it full tilt down. Once I recover the seat, if it's too high, I'm going to do the common sectioning about 2" out of the seat bracket.
 
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Old 05-19-2016, 08:11 PM
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Since it's part of the brake upgrade I have to ask what length the steering column is and how you decided on that length? I am 5'9'' and with my worn out seat can barely see over the hood. Going to repair the seat and may have to raise it. Don't know if that type of information factored into your decision or anyone elses. Maybe even 5'8'', short enough to buy a Corvette anyways.
 

Last edited by filthy6; 05-19-2016 at 08:23 PM. Reason: left stuff out
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Old 05-19-2016, 08:22 PM
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Originally Posted by filthy6
Since it's part of the brake upgrade I have to ask what length the steering column is and how you decided on that length?
Hi. I used the method of sitting on the seat and using a long rod of sorts (I used an old curtain rod) and treating it as the column shaft since that's what the length represents when buying an idiot or others. Still some guesswork regarding the steering wheel dish and stuff, but it had measurements as well. it seemed like 30" was good. I was nervous when i finally pulled the trigger! It was between 30" and 32".
 
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Old 05-19-2016, 11:04 PM
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Duplicate post. Deleted.
 

Last edited by Schuyles; 05-19-2016 at 11:05 PM. Reason: Duplicate post
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Old 05-20-2016, 05:47 PM
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Article on Toyota box install: Toyota Steering Box Swap For 1948-1960 Trucks - Ford-Trucks.com It is somewhat outdated but most of the info is good. Note: you do not need the extended drag link unless you plan to move the axle forward with new springs. i.e. Mid Fifty's down and forward springs.
 


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