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The most I've ever paid on doing a recon on heads was 1500. That's all new valves, springs, guides n seats. But,, I only have experience in my area. I'm sure the prices change with the area. I've paid for my fair share of machining.
Also, if a lifter leaves the bore,, replace it!!!!
The most I've ever paid on doing a recon on heads was 1500. That's all new valves, springs, guides n seats. But,, I only have experience in my area. I'm sure the prices change with the area. I've paid for my fair share of machining.
Also, if a lifter leaves the bore,, replace it!!!!
Why? Does the plastic retainer distort? Or just preventative maintenance?
Only have 90k on the odo & figured while I was in there I'd inspect them & cam lobes when heads are off.
Area sure has a lot to do with the price a well as quality. These local prices are the only places that were repeatedly recommended. And their repairs were not with replacing everything but as needed. I'm sure there might be some more willing to do it cheaper but definitely aren't recommended. There was a good recommendation in the bay area, but even more.
As far as shops C and D, their quality of work is what continues their referrals. Southeastern Cylinder Head, and UCF Machine Shop. I'm not looking for o-rings so probably will go with Southeastern.
Just sucks having to drop this cash after everything I've already gone through. I would love to just get them decked for $500 but know that's not the right (thorough) thing to do for a rig I plan on keeping 15+ years.
Why? Does the plastic retainer distort? Or just preventative maintenance?
Only have 90k on the odo & figured while I was in there I'd inspect them & cam lobes when heads are off.
I've never seen a retainer broken. But new ones are black,, and they turn brown with age. If they do let go,, it's total engine rebuild. Also,, they're about $15 each,, why chance it. You are aware you will only be able to see the front 8 unless you pull the rear cover off?
Area sure has a lot to do with the price a well as quality. These local prices are the only places that were repeatedly recommended. And their repairs were not with replacing everything but as needed. I'm sure there might be some more willing to do it cheaper but definitely aren't recommended. There was a good recommendation in the bay area, but even more.
As far as shops C and D, their quality of work is what continues their referrals. Southeastern Cylinder Head, and UCF Machine Shop. I'm not looking for o-rings so probably will go with Southeastern.
Just sucks having to drop this cash after everything I've already gone through. I would love to just get them decked for $500 but know that's not the right (thorough) thing to do for a rig I plan on keeping 15+ years.
Sounds like you will be fine. I generally like to do all the guides,, and at least exhaust seats. The integral guides and seats will wear out,, even if they are good now. I replace the intake seats if they drop over .035 recession after cleaning up.
Fixing and doing a little other work. Got ahold of a pcm plug with extra wire for the high idle to swap out from my modded plug.
I now need to find a middle plug to repin because the plastic housing is all broken.
I also need to solder the splices they made before and find another plug to repin.
Plus wait on the three ficm plugs to come in since all three have the retention clips broken.
Really hoping i can get some help with this. Since i bought a 2003 rig with 70k and i found a 2005 engine in its place, i have no idea of it's history. I was told if you can find the engine number there is a way a ford employee can find the vehicle vin of what it went into. Finally was able to get a clear shot of it.
6.0HU2Y0193813*
(J?)EC21659
This is all of it so far and it still is not running clear.
The first flushes after restore were very milky/cloudy.
After resore+ it came out very greenish.
I ran until almost clear but had to shut it down at 10pm.
Started up again after getting home from work and it came out very cloudy white.
You can see there is a dark film on the bottom that is in all the jugs.
I washed this out of my collection tubs.
Unfortunatley I had to shut it down again tonight before it all came out clear. Each of the jugs has a cloudy residue that hovers in the top of the jug about two inches from the bottom. When I pulled the radiator hose there is a soft white film on the inside top of the hose. I'm just wondering now if I should run both cleaners through again or flush till clear and call it good. I'm running without the thermostat in fyi.
So what is the full part number of the side mount style valve?
To make it easier (Oh, so much easier!) I purchased the Fumoto valves for the block. For the passenger side I got their SX side banjo style mount to improve access around the starter. Unfortunately they only come with short nipples. I asked if I could get one with a longer one and no dice, I asked if I could swap one from a standard valve and they said the construction tolerances prohibit it. So I bought one for each side and swapped the nipples. Easy peasy. SX series on top with longer nipple already swapped.
I permanetly attached a hose to the passenger side and ran it along with the block heater cord. Passenger side Fumoto valve installed. Starter not yet installed.
For the side mount Fumoto valves just add an SX to the last of the part number so it would be a F108SX. I would highly recommend swapping the short nipple from the SX series with a long nipple from a standard one. This allowed me to permanently attach a hose to the passenger side behind the starter. Then get their short plastic clip on nipple to hook up for the driver side. Hope this is what you were looking for.
Lower Radiator Hose Part Number Needed
I am having a tough time finding the right part number. Because of the engine swap, an 05 engine into the 03 body, my lower radiator hose has a splice on the lower end with a 6" extension. It has already popped off once at the splice and leaks a bit off and on.
I am looking to replace it with a one piece factory hose. Everywhere I look there are a bunch of different part numbers. I have determined it is a 3 O'clock output front cover.
It looks like the main part # is 8286. The Motorcraft numbers are KM4859, KM4877, KM4923, KM4974 amoung others. What is the right part number so that I can order the right one?
Just went to have a look because I thought I still had the old hose set
from when I changed them. But no love. Looks like one of the times I did
actually tossed something out when I took it off the truck.
Yeah I have been there to look and FordParts but the "T" hose certainly isn't what I have. And when I image search the hose it looks just as short as the one I have on.
The KM4877 looks like it has a longer reach.
Some stuff has been so easy to find part numbers for but this and the lower degas coolant hose (mine had a crack at the plastic junction) have been so confusing with so many different numbers available. I just don't want to order something that won't be the right thing. And the prices are so different, from $37-120!
02-27-2017, 05:55 PM
