1966 F250 I6 300 ignition conversion from points to electronic ignition
#1
1966 F250 I6 300 ignition conversion from points to electronic ignition
Thank you for allowing me the use of FTE, I joined last summer and have learned many useful things from visiting the sight often.
One area that I was not able to find much information on, was the conversion from points to electronic ignition.
My 1966 F250, inline six 300 runs good but I wanted the gap and dwell to be spot on all the time.
Here is what I used and how it worked.
I searched the net for the best product and correct application and decided to go with PerTonix. PerTronix has the ignitor-I, and the Ignitor-II, I went with the ignitor-I 1261 because it was about $30.00 cheaper and my coil was just fine. Next I discovered that two units seemed to fit my FoMoCo distributer, 1261 and 1266, I checked with my brick and mortar parts store and was told the part would need to be ordered and would arrive by noon the next day. Although a little more expensive ($5.00) I like the customer service and convenience so I placed the order.
Total time for the installation from pop the hood to test start was just under 30 minuets!
Note. The difference in part numbers from PeTronix I and II was the addition of a 9 at the front, exp. 1261 or 91261.
The only problems I encountered were two.
First was the leads from the module to the coil were a little to big to fit through the hole on the side of the distributer so I had to crimp them a bit with me pliers and then reshape.
Second was the points were held in place with TWO screws, yet the module only had ONE hole for attachment! Seemed to fit snug and gaped with out any problems,
Regards
Ulf.
One area that I was not able to find much information on, was the conversion from points to electronic ignition.
My 1966 F250, inline six 300 runs good but I wanted the gap and dwell to be spot on all the time.
Here is what I used and how it worked.
I searched the net for the best product and correct application and decided to go with PerTonix. PerTronix has the ignitor-I, and the Ignitor-II, I went with the ignitor-I 1261 because it was about $30.00 cheaper and my coil was just fine. Next I discovered that two units seemed to fit my FoMoCo distributer, 1261 and 1266, I checked with my brick and mortar parts store and was told the part would need to be ordered and would arrive by noon the next day. Although a little more expensive ($5.00) I like the customer service and convenience so I placed the order.
Total time for the installation from pop the hood to test start was just under 30 minuets!
Note. The difference in part numbers from PeTronix I and II was the addition of a 9 at the front, exp. 1261 or 91261.
The only problems I encountered were two.
First was the leads from the module to the coil were a little to big to fit through the hole on the side of the distributer so I had to crimp them a bit with me pliers and then reshape.
Second was the points were held in place with TWO screws, yet the module only had ONE hole for attachment! Seemed to fit snug and gaped with out any problems,
Regards
Ulf.
#2
Welcome to FTE!
Pertronix puts a lot of emphasis on the fact that there are no modifications required, cutting or fitting to size or anything like that. Just drop in, secure, and go. Not saying you have the "wrong" module, just that there may be a different distributor than from factory? Maybe post a pic when you get a chance.
Points and condenser aren't for everyone, there is an art to setting and maintaining them, a few arcane rituals, and nobody hardly seems to know how to make good ones anymore. Sort of like vacuum tubes, the Russians make them still today, but they don't last anything like the ones from the 40s - 60s.
Pertronix has gotten more expensive. I seem to remember the module I bought was around 70 bones. Should look it up.
Pertronix puts a lot of emphasis on the fact that there are no modifications required, cutting or fitting to size or anything like that. Just drop in, secure, and go. Not saying you have the "wrong" module, just that there may be a different distributor than from factory? Maybe post a pic when you get a chance.
Points and condenser aren't for everyone, there is an art to setting and maintaining them, a few arcane rituals, and nobody hardly seems to know how to make good ones anymore. Sort of like vacuum tubes, the Russians make them still today, but they don't last anything like the ones from the 40s - 60s.
Pertronix has gotten more expensive. I seem to remember the module I bought was around 70 bones. Should look it up.
#3
I just installed a Petronix I myself, the 2 leads that came out did fit snugly in the notch in the dizzy, but I assumed that was to keep crap out of there. 2nd, yes the points are held on with 2 screws, while the Pretonix uses a pin for locating and one screw. Like Tedster said no modifications should be made... you pay a lot of money for that little box, it better bolt right on. It appears the 1261 and 91261 are the correct ones for the 240/300 engines. I installed a 1281, being I have the 292 V8. It appears they have 2 models for your 6cyl engine.... 1261 and a 1266... depending on Motorcraft or Autolite distributer. Go here... Petronix Use Table Go to page 7. You need to verify your dizzy model/manufacturer.
#6
Good!
Difficult to tell from here , but the gap looks pretty close. .030" is the nominal measurement, and as a practical matter you can probably eyeball it, doesn't seem to be too critical, just make sure the magnet doesn't hit in different configurations, like when vacuum advance moves the breaker plate. Sometimes the distributor shaft has a little wobble, and the cobalt magnet isn't necessarily perfectly round.
Difficult to tell from here , but the gap looks pretty close. .030" is the nominal measurement, and as a practical matter you can probably eyeball it, doesn't seem to be too critical, just make sure the magnet doesn't hit in different configurations, like when vacuum advance moves the breaker plate. Sometimes the distributor shaft has a little wobble, and the cobalt magnet isn't necessarily perfectly round.
#7
Good eye!
You are spot on, the kit included a small plastic feeler gauge at .030
Did you happened to see my other thread about the oiler?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16277557
You seem to know about these things, what are your thoughts about this?
You are spot on, the kit included a small plastic feeler gauge at .030
Did you happened to see my other thread about the oiler?
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/1...l#post16277557
You seem to know about these things, what are your thoughts about this?
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#8
Older distributors had the oiler. Not sure how well they worked though. But, if yours has one, you should use it.
The distributor shaft, the part the rotor sits on, originally has a wool felt disc underneath, the lubrication schedule says one (1) drop of oil on the felt every 4000 miles, etc. Nobody does this. It's supposed to wick oil down along the distributor shaft and hold there, and keep the reluctor and advance mechanism moving smoothly.
This is definitely a case though, where more is not better. A few drops of oil, and it will start to sling itself all around inside the distributor. Bad deal when running points.
The distributor shaft, the part the rotor sits on, originally has a wool felt disc underneath, the lubrication schedule says one (1) drop of oil on the felt every 4000 miles, etc. Nobody does this. It's supposed to wick oil down along the distributor shaft and hold there, and keep the reluctor and advance mechanism moving smoothly.
This is definitely a case though, where more is not better. A few drops of oil, and it will start to sling itself all around inside the distributor. Bad deal when running points.
#9
#10
The information should be in the Operator's Manual and the Ford Shop Manual for 1966, part of the maintenance schedule. I'd be surprised if it's not 20 or 30 wt, but, who knows that's why we look things up in the manual. It's good that you are paying attention to detail and trying to perform good preventive maintenance. It pays to do this, make good maintenance a habit and like any fine piece of machinery will give many years of good service and satisfaction.
edit: Looks like for T-birds the spec was every 5000 miles, "a few drops of oil" in the distributor cup.
edit: Looks like for T-birds the spec was every 5000 miles, "a few drops of oil" in the distributor cup.
#11
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