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Remove the axle and you'll see the large nuts that secure the hub to the housing. FWIW, there are some UTube procedures that are obviously done by "hacks". Get a wrench to remove and replace the large nuts. Have fun.
You will need to remove the nuts and tapered lock washers from the studs holding the axle in the hub. There are two jack screw holes in between two of the studs on the axle head, sometimes they work sometimes they don't. I have seen quite a number of axles with jack bolts twisted off in them. If the jack bolts don't pull the axle loose, you have two options, double nut the studs and remove all the studs or use a hammer about 3lbs and pound on the center of the axle head. Pounding on the head will cause the tapered lock washers to back out where you can remove them with pliers. Once the axle is loose, just pull it out. There is a pair of 8 sided nuts about 3 1/4" across the flats to adjust the wheel bearings. You will probably notice that a PO has removed the outside one with a cold chisel, very common, as most don't have the proper socket. There is a keyed washer between the nuts. When you get the hub off please notice that there is a snap ring behind the grease seal that must be removed before you can drive out the seal. I can give you the National and C/R numbers for the grease seals when you are ready to reassemble.
Mark
Lots of metal glitter inside. Bearings done it seams...taking the nut off once o get the socket.
Originally Posted by 49fordv8f4
You will need to remove the nuts and tapered lock washers from the studs holding the axle in the hub. There are two jack screw holes in between two of the studs on the axle head, sometimes they work sometimes they don't. I have seen quite a number of axles with jack bolts twisted off in them. If the jack bolts don't pull the axle loose, you have two options, double nut the studs and remove all the studs or use a hammer about 3lbs and pound on the center of the axle head. Pounding on the head will cause the tapered lock washers to back out where you can remove them with pliers. Once the axle is loose, just pull it out. There is a pair of 8 sided nuts about 3 1/4" across the flats to adjust the wheel bearings. You will probably notice that a PO has removed the outside one with a cold chisel, very common, as most don't have the proper socket. There is a keyed washer between the nuts. When you get the hub off please notice that there is a snap ring behind the grease seal that must be removed before you can drive out the seal. I can give you the National and C/R numbers for the grease seals when you are ready to reassemble.
Mark
I would suggest the next step be to drain the differential to see how much water comes out. I see some in the axle housing. If the differential is full of water and the bearings are dry, the rear end may be history.
And if you are doing one side... do the other. Especially if the diff oil doesn't look great. The drivers side could be close behind, might as well do some preventative maintenance.
Should I be able to pull the hub off at this point?
Originally Posted by 49fordv8f4
You will need to remove the nuts and tapered lock washers from the studs holding the axle in the hub. There are two jack screw holes in between two of the studs on the axle head, sometimes they work sometimes they don't. I have seen quite a number of axles with jack bolts twisted off in them. If the jack bolts don't pull the axle loose, you have two options, double nut the studs and remove all the studs or use a hammer about 3lbs and pound on the center of the axle head. Pounding on the head will cause the tapered lock washers to back out where you can remove them with pliers. Once the axle is loose, just pull it out. There is a pair of 8 sided nuts about 3 1/4" across the flats to adjust the wheel bearings. You will probably notice that a PO has removed the outside one with a cold chisel, very common, as most don't have the proper socket. There is a keyed washer between the nuts. When you get the hub off please notice that there is a snap ring behind the grease seal that must be removed before you can drive out the seal. I can give you the National and C/R numbers for the grease seals when you are ready to reassemble.
Mark
Yes, unless one of the bearings has damaged the spindle, then it may come off hard. Otherwise it should pull off easily.
Mark
BTW, Measure the size of the nut before you buy a socket, I was going from memory when I said it was about 3 1/4".
It's not coming off easy.
I used pullers (pic) and no movement. Maybe I need to go farther but so far nothing.
I removed the nut without socket. It had the chisel notches .
BYW- Thanks very much for you help
Originally Posted by 49fordv8f4
Yes, unless one of the bearings has damaged the spindle, then it may come off hard. Otherwise it should pull off easily.
Mark
BTW, Measure the size of the nut before you buy a socket, I was going from memory when I said it was about 3 1/4".
I would SWAG that when the bearing cage broke, it locked the bearing and the inside race has worn into the housing. Look at the lower side of the housing where the bearing rides. From what I see, I believe you will find a 1/8" groove. If the race has worn much of a groove into the housing, you'll be looking for another rear end.
Top of the housing looks ok. How about the bottom side, where the pressure would be greatest? Look closely. Does the outside bearing inner race fit on the housing with no excessive play? What does the oil look like that was drained? Water, chunks? Now, inspect the other side.
New inner and outer bearings, races and seals will be on your list, minimum.
05-29-2016, 01:36 PM
