First, an introduction. I normally hang out on the 80 - 86 truck forum, or the 335 Series engine forum, or sometimes the 2015+ forum. In fact, I don't have a Bronco - yet. But, I have some questions. (Yes, I know this is the Bronco forum, but in spite of that I'm sure you'll give me unbiased guidance - right? )

Question(s):

1. Thoughts on "overlanding" w/an 80-86 Bronco? (In my definition that's where you take on some reasonable stretches of off-road trails, but is far short of rock-crawling.)
2. Mod's that might be beneficial to a Bronco for "overlanding"?
3. Does the TTB really hurt the off-road capability? Is a solid axle really that better?
4. Guidance?

Background: As you can tell from my sig, I'm "into" the 80 - 86 pickups. I work on them as well as document them on my web site, including lots of info from Ford's parts catalog. (In fact, y'all might find some things on my web site that could help you as the ~300 pages of 1980 - 86 Ford info includes the Broncos.)

However, my son and I've been planning to build the '50 Chevy pickup I have into a real hotrod - until I sent him a link to Hacksters F100 that laps on the rear bumper of Vettes and Z28's. Unfortunately, after I sent my son the link Hackster posted a pic of his friend's restored Toyota Land Cruiser. Sure enough, my son read the thread after the Toy's pic was added and now wants to change the plans to a 4x4 that is big enough to take his wife, daughter of 2, camping gear, and maybe their dogs "overlanding".

But, they live in St Louis so the vehicle has to be roadworthy to drive to/fro Colorado if they want to do so. We've talked through various options and he's kind of hung up on Land Cruisers, and likes the FJ80/FJZ80 series, which are the 1991-97 versions. From everything I read they are as dependable as they come, but they aren't very powerful - or maybe I should say they aren't called "Land Bruisers" for nothing, and the 4.0/4.5L L6 they have doesn't accelerate them like my son's 3-Series Beemer. So, I don't think he's gonna really like to drive one of them.

Given that, I'm thinking the better solution would be a Bullnozed Bronco. It is something I understand and should be able to make handle and perform to his liking. But, I don't know how they handle off-road. So, what do y'all think?

 

I'm not as informed about the strength of the axles and TTB as many on here are, but I'll post my input.

I've had my 96 Bronco since the end of 2006. I've never had an issue with the TTB setup. I don't do very hard offroading, but I do like to take it on camping trips and do some occasional medium duty offroading. I've also done some pretty intense trailing on some beat up difficult quad trails (going around a beaten path to rescue my friends jeep), and my Bronco made it through with no problem!

Several years ago, I was going out to my friends place after a bad rain who lived where there were very soft dirt roads. It was dark, and I saw some pretty steep washed out areas that I though my tires would roll over. It turns out the area was deeper than my knee and wider than my tire. I went about 15 mph into this ditch which was like hitting a brick wall. The Bronco climbed right over it though, but I sheared the outpupt shaft on my steering box. The Axle however is completely fine and had been since then.

I would think if the engine is in good running condition, everything checks out (like no wear on driveshaft u-joints and other maintenance items etc) that

1. This would be a perfect vehicle for over-landing given it's in good running shape
2. Maybe bigger tires (I would probably not go over 35" though with the TTB and stock axles). Also warn manual hubs if it doesn't already have them.
3. In my experience the TTB is great. A solid axle has less moving parts which is a plus for sure, but I love the turning radius of the TTB and it's held up for me for almost 10 years now.


I've gotta say, I like the 92-96 body style the best, but the bullnose style isn't too bad! We had an 88 F150 that our grandpa left that I really liked. It was very poorly maintained by my brothers and I and sat for years before we even drove it so it had a bunch of issues though. That was when I first started driving which was long before I had tools or knew how to work on anything. I'm sure I could have made that a great truck if we still had it.

 

Thanks, Bubba. That's good input.

On the engine, I'm not too concerned what shape it is in as I doubt a stock engine is going to suffice. The "stroked 351M" that's going in Dad's truck will probably show ~500 HP @ 500 ft lbs at low R's on Tim's dyno when the time comes. At least that's what Tim tells me. We might not go that far on the Bronco, but I think it could be a fun vehicle with a bit of rework. And, it would probably get an E4OD since he wants an auto - assuming an M, or an AOD if it is a W.

As for the body styles, having two Bullnosed trucks and a whole attic full of parts that fit them I'm pretty sure to stay 80 - 86 if it is a Ford. Just my preference and what I know. Plus, I have a teeny bit of documentation on them. However, when did the Bronco get air bags and anti-lock?

 

anti lock is in 85ish I think, Air bags was an option in 94 came standard 95 I believe.


As far as the anti lock my 88 F150 has it but it doesn't work so technically it doesn't have it.


As far as the TTB I have pushed it pretty hard in my 88 F150 and I haven't had an issue with it yes I would prefer a straight axle but the TTB does fine.


Just last week I pushed the TTB through a fairly deep mud hole that I never slowed down below 15MPH. I also just a couple days ago checked everything out to make sure I didn't break anything and everything was still just as good as the new parts I put in it.
Trav

 

Good info as well, Trav. Sounds like the TTB isn't as bad as some say. I have it on both Dad's truck and Rusty and it works well. But, they've not been off-road much, so I don't have any significant experience. Thanks!

Guys, please keep the cards and letters coming in......

 

Yeah I think the TTB vs solid axle is kinda like the 9mm vs 45 argument. Yes the 45 is a bigger bullet and should have more stopping power, but the 9mm is going to work perfectly for any situation you get it. I personally like my 45 Kimber the most, but I like 9s as well. While obviously the solid axle has advantages over the TTB and I believe it IS stronger, it's really not needed unless you plan on driving the truck harder than most people ever get around too. I like my truck too much to be that hard on it as well, and know it's going to get me anywhere I need it to.

I guess as with anything, one kinda bad thing with these Broncos (any older SUV) compared to newer SUVs now is the comfort options aren't as great. There is no rear AC and all that jazz, so it takes longer to heat up or cool down the back. My AC works great in the front, but it probably would take a little bit longer to cool off anyone who is sitting in the rear. When it comes to performance offroad, I almost think these Broncos are better than most newer SUVs. The wheelbase is a bit shorter and ground clearance is much higher. Also, the transfer cases in these trucks are pretty dang good, especially if you have a manual shift 4x4.

 

Solid axle > TTB

TTB is good over rough terrain at speeds like in desert racing applications.

Solid axle is good for rock crawling, mud, and general offroad. You can beef it up to handle more abuse than a TTB can.

TTB doesnt like lift kits like a solid axle does due to the bow the TTB has which can cause premature wear faster to your components and tires. Can you lift it though? Sure, but be sure to get an alignment and keep a check on it. Solid axle wont have that problem as bad since it does articulate like a TTB does.

 

My '91 F150 had the Tuff Country 2.5" lift kit with extended radius arms. With 33x10.50R15 tires it handled very well and actually rode better on the dirt/gravel roads then the concrete interstate hiways. The TTB is noted to handle and ride better than a solid axle, even the Chevy guys will say that. Granted it takes some work to upgrade to the poly bushings and make sure that it is aligned correctly, but when done, it is a joy to drive. I did a little trail driving at Tuttle Creek park in KS and it wasn't challenged over the rocks. And I think that the domestic power will be appreciated.

 

That really is about all it can take. Anything bigger is gonna start showing how sucky the TTB can be.

 

Tuttle Creek! Hadn't remembered that place in a while. Made a few trips up there while at KSU - for various reasons. Was half-way across on my first ice skating venture when the ice cracked like a shot to relieve the pressure. I thought I was dead.

Anyway, I doubt we would go any bigger than 33's. And it sounds like y'all are saying 33's work ok with the TTB and a small lift, but take the time to set it up correctly.

And, I agree the power would be appreciated.

 

So, how much weight can be put on a roof rack on a Bronco? Is the NP203 full-time t-case preferable to a part-time t-case?

 

The NP205 is a better tcase. It is gear driven unlike the chain driven NP203.

The NP205 can be twin stick to make both axles operated indenpently of each other. Like if you want to make a real tight turn you can shift the rear axle shifter to N and engage the front shifter to L or H.

The NP203 is mainly used for a double transfer case. The NP203 gear box bolts to the NP205 to give you a more lower crawl ratio..


The roof can handle some weight, but its best to have an attachment point to a more stronger point on your Bronco.

 

Ok, thanks. Not sure that we would want to go to a 205 as I'm not sure how "serious" we want to make it. But, that is an option.

I was asking about the 203 vs the 208 as I have only recently been made aware of the 203 when a friend bought a '78 F150 with one. I read up on it and found that it is a full-time unit, meaning it has a differential in it and sends power to the front and rear at all times. Or, you can put it in locked high or locked low, meaning that it locks the diff in either the high or low range. So, the up side is you can lock the front hubs in and have the equivalent of AWD with 3 differentials. But, the downside is you are always feeding power to the front and it uses more gas than a part-time transfer case because of that.

Just weighing the options.

 

The NP203 can be converted to part time with a kit.

 

Ok, wasn't aware of that. Will pass it on to my friend as he may want to do that. Hasn't calculated MPG yet, but with a stock 351M and the NP203, I think he's going to be a bit surprised.