Hi,

As you can see in my signature, i got screwed with buying a 2008 f-350 diesel, seemed to work fine when i bought it, but when i did the first oil change, it started to knock crazy in the valvetrain, turns out the previous owner had hidden the engine noise by throwing 4 litres of lucas treatment in the oil so the engine would shut up, so story short i no longer have the truck, couldnt afford the 15000$ engine rebuilt.

So now i want to buy a 2011 and up with the 6.2 L engine, ( no diesel ever again for me).

Question1 : will the 6.2L be strong enough to handle the 6" lift on 37"x14.5R20's Without Regearing?
Question 2: any known issues with the 6.2L? I don't want another engine like the 6.4L

Note that I won't haul much, maybe my 1974 corvette in a enclosed trailer but not that often, it's mostly going to be a show toy truck. And won't see the mud.

I'm open to any suggestions or any advise.

 

What gears are in the 2011? 4.30s would be best when going to a larger tire but for your use, 3.73s probably wouldn't be terribly bad.

 

Not sure yet buddy, I have to find the truck first, but before i do, i wanna do all my homework first. I don't want to repeat the same experience i had with the other one, imagine ive bought the truck 25000$ drove it for 2 weeks then traded it at ford cause it was a 15000$ repair and they wouldnt warranty the job since they says they don't trust the engine themselve. And that was a ford dealer! Actually almost all the ford dealers and diesel shops around here don't want to work on those 6.OL and 6.4L. I's crazy. Also for what you will save in gas money, the 6.7L requires way too much maintenance, diesels are not for me, too many **** that can go wrong and way to expensive.

So if you can suggest a gearing, yes I'll gladly note it.

 

I would definitely go with the 4.30s with 37" tires. If you stayed with stock tires, 3.73s would be fine.

 

I ran 37s on both ratios. You have to realize they are only 2 or so inches taller than the biggest factory size. 4.30s are better, it will put you to stock feel of a 3.73 truck but 3.73s aren't horrible. Biggest thing with the 3.73s it will shift between 5th and 6th quite a bit. I towed a car trailer with different weights no trouble, can't say 10k or so would go all that great though. The 6 speed makes up a good bit ground on hiding the need for gears, not a good as diesel would though. Definitely not all that bad.

 

You've clearly already done your homework well. Going to the 6.2 is what I have done since leaving the headache diesel world of nearly 20yrs for me.
Owning my current 6.2 3.73 geared I can tell you I can't wait to get another one(just oredered) with 4.30 gears. Going to the larger tires it isn't even a question to me as to what to get. It is hard enough getting used to the gasser after so many diesels but do yourself a favor and plan on 4.30's. They are harder to find, that's why I ordered this time. If you can't find them, know most dealers will do the swap for around $2500 if you decide to go that route.
I only run 285/70/17 which is not even a full 33" and daily driving is ok, will be much better w/4.30 IMO and as for towing, I can't stand the 3.73.

 

There is a lot of 6.2 info in the 6.2 section located here:
6.2L V8 - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
IMO, The 6.2 in the SuperDuty is the most reliable new or used truck you can get today. I frequent my Ford dealer a lot, when they sell 6.2's, they don't see the buyers again until the 100k service. For a newer truck, you can't beat it.

 

Thanks !!!, I'll go ask more questions over there. I need to know how much HP/Torque i can gain with a computer chip, I'm trying to reduce the lost from stock running those big tires

 

A chip or tuner isn't going to get much feel back after bigger tires, not like a diesel. Gears are the real fix for big tires. Bad thing is for the 11&up trucks 4.30s are as deep as you go. I'm sure someone has installed and older 10.25 set to use deeper gears but I haven't seen one done yet. I didn't have the time to be the test dummy and find the bearings that would be needed to to do it not to mention the driveshaft slange wouldn't work either. Best thing to do is run what you have. If you have the high gears you have the option to swap, if you have the deeper ones that's all you get.

 

I can tell you the 6.2 is a great trouble free motor. Expect it to rev while towing, it isn't a diesel by any means. But for towing >10k, it is plenty. It will pull more, but I would not want to regularly, unless it was local around town. I love mine with a 6k travel trailer. Set the cruise and go. With 3:73's, if I get into hills, I lock out 6th. I think I could do the same thing with larger tires and not have a problem. My dad is waiting on delivery of a 6.2 with 4:30's. Interested in feeling the difference.

There is no way I would buy a new diesel. Everyone I know that has one, no matter the brand, has had some sort of issue. Some leaving them stranded. And there is only a couple I know that could not get by just fine with the 6.2.

 

Nice to know. I had a really bad experience with the 6.4L. So It's good to ear that the 6.2L is a good reliable motor. So unlike the Diesels, and K/N cold air intake and a good exhaust system shouldn't hurt it too right?

I was wondering if a chip would boost that much power, like you said it's not the same as a diesel. But at the same time I didn't know, I don't work with computers much, I own a 1974 corvette and if you want real power on those , it's cylinder heads, cam shafts etc....

 

A good custom tune will help tremendously with the shift pattern/timing on the 6.2 with the 3.73 gearing. You can get a performance tune, an economy tune and a towing tune.


Night and day difference from stock.

 

I have not bought the 5 star tune for my truck... yet. But from my experience with the new throttle by wire systems and electronic transmissions, the tuners make a very noticeable difference in throttle response and help with shift points and firmness. They may pick you up a few horsepower, but that's not where you will feel the difference.

The intake and exhaust flow very well from the factory, not much to be had there. If you want it to sound good, just delete the muffler. If that isn't loud enough, remove the second resonator.(both of these are simple to remove) And if you want to wake the dead, remove the first resonator. The first resonator is a bit more involved in removing, but would make true duals pretty simple.

The 6.2's run good, but if your looking to go fast by today's standards, it's the wrong truck, unless you have deep pockets. The whipple supercharger kit for the 6.2 raptor is adaptable to the super duty. But I beleive its around 7 grand plus dyno tuning. But that would still be half of what a new 6.4 ticking time bomb cost.....

 

Are you planning on towing with it? If so I would go with 4.88's if not 4.30's would be adaquate imho.

 

As the truck sits 4.30s are as deep as you can go. For the 11&up rear axle there's no deeper ratio. Whether an older 10.25 gearset can be retrofitted nobody knows for sure, including vendors. The ring gear will bol to the carrier but the bearings are what needs figured out plus you need to change the pinion flange and the driveshaft flange being the older flange is a smaller bolt circle. 4.30s and 37s will put you are stock performance of the smallest stock tire size and 3.73s