351w hickup,dies when warm
#1
351w hickup,dies when warm
Hello.
Just got this car 3 days ago ,so im startin from scratch on this one:
Trouble: -Engine has a miss every 1/4 mile or so when cruisin ,even dies
sometimes after warm start,take off.
-When changing pre carb fuel filter there was still a lot of pressure
on hose after car been sittin for 30 min,is this normal?
Things i KNow is bad:It has a leak when cold at the exhaust manifold,
the distributor seem slightly woobly,its black at the tailpipe..
Its a stock 351w '70,250 hp. P.O. put a new 2port Holley on it
but that didnt help.
Im a bit on a budget with this one,so i dont wanna just throw parts at it
like i tend to do anyway...
Beelow ,Denmark
Just got this car 3 days ago ,so im startin from scratch on this one:
Trouble: -Engine has a miss every 1/4 mile or so when cruisin ,even dies
sometimes after warm start,take off.
-When changing pre carb fuel filter there was still a lot of pressure
on hose after car been sittin for 30 min,is this normal?
Things i KNow is bad:It has a leak when cold at the exhaust manifold,
the distributor seem slightly woobly,its black at the tailpipe..
Its a stock 351w '70,250 hp. P.O. put a new 2port Holley on it
but that didnt help.
Im a bit on a budget with this one,so i dont wanna just throw parts at it
like i tend to do anyway...
Beelow ,Denmark
#2
year make and model vehicle?
-what type distributor? stock HEI?
-If stock is the ballast resistor wired up?
-does it look like it has been rewired inside or engine compartment?
-if you have a mylar blanet and a ice pack for a lunchbox wrap the mylar blanket around the ice pack stick it next to the coil and see if it gets better
- Check your grounds (make sure there is one to the block and one to the frame...trust me!)
the distributor is it wobbly at the rotor or the whole unit.. whole unit tighten it down rotor someone else chime in but a bad bushing posibly which cold also be a source of the miss.
-what type distributor? stock HEI?
-If stock is the ballast resistor wired up?
-does it look like it has been rewired inside or engine compartment?
-if you have a mylar blanet and a ice pack for a lunchbox wrap the mylar blanket around the ice pack stick it next to the coil and see if it gets better
- Check your grounds (make sure there is one to the block and one to the frame...trust me!)
the distributor is it wobbly at the rotor or the whole unit.. whole unit tighten it down rotor someone else chime in but a bad bushing posibly which cold also be a source of the miss.
#3
#5
Ok.
Seem like i bought myself a fixer. Just so many small things off on this one.
Im used to having ugly cars that run good, now i have the oposite...
Fixed the negative ground today, i could take off the wire on battery with my fingers...!
Only makes you wonder what else the P.O. didnt tighten...
Are there originally a ground strap engine/frame somewhere? Or do i just add one.?
End play on distributor was not to bad after all so im gonna go with a pertronix kit, since i was gonna do that anyway ,bad dist or not.
Gonna add a spacer on carb also.
See if one off these things help.
Also its a manuel choke on the carb,but p.o. didnt hook a cable to it... should i get that done also? I mean it starts fine with cold engine, and im only gonna drive this one in the summer anyway.
Thanks in advance. Now im gonna sit and wait for parts from your side of the Atlantic...
Seem like i bought myself a fixer. Just so many small things off on this one.
Im used to having ugly cars that run good, now i have the oposite...
Fixed the negative ground today, i could take off the wire on battery with my fingers...!
Only makes you wonder what else the P.O. didnt tighten...
Are there originally a ground strap engine/frame somewhere? Or do i just add one.?
End play on distributor was not to bad after all so im gonna go with a pertronix kit, since i was gonna do that anyway ,bad dist or not.
Gonna add a spacer on carb also.
See if one off these things help.
Also its a manuel choke on the carb,but p.o. didnt hook a cable to it... should i get that done also? I mean it starts fine with cold engine, and im only gonna drive this one in the summer anyway.
Thanks in advance. Now im gonna sit and wait for parts from your side of the Atlantic...
#6
I would find out how to properly adjust the choke and run the cable, choke issues can cause a world of headache. if the choke plate is closed warm it is not getting enough air mixing with the fuel, If you stomp on the accelerator when warm does it die or go vs if you give it gas slowly?
add grounds,you can never have to many grounds. In my opinion run a ground to the block, run a ground to the to the starter bolt and a ground to the frame. If you want to keep a clean look run the grounds from battery to the block then from the block along side of the pan to the starter bolt then from the starter bolt to the frame like a daisy chain.
check the fuse block and connections for oxidization and corrosion. tighten up loose connections and solder and heat shrink crimped connections.
add grounds,you can never have to many grounds. In my opinion run a ground to the block, run a ground to the to the starter bolt and a ground to the frame. If you want to keep a clean look run the grounds from battery to the block then from the block along side of the pan to the starter bolt then from the starter bolt to the frame like a daisy chain.
check the fuse block and connections for oxidization and corrosion. tighten up loose connections and solder and heat shrink crimped connections.
#7
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#8
Yeah its pretty expensive overhere,plus the tax on a package before they
release it, 300 $ worth of parts end up being 800$ sometimes... Just cause its not
from an Eu-country.... free trade my a..
Anywho. Sometime local vendors are actually cheaper cause they can gather up orders,
or for bigger orders, i can get it shipped to relatives crossborder in Germany
where taxation are lower.
But thank you for the tip, your offer applies especially to used parts since there arent many
U.S. junkyards ,plus a private package usually slip through customs easyer than one that
"Dennis Carpenter"all over it...
Sorry for the rantin...
I will go troubleshoot this beast soon, and prob return for further questions.
Beelow -Denmark.
release it, 300 $ worth of parts end up being 800$ sometimes... Just cause its not
from an Eu-country.... free trade my a..
Anywho. Sometime local vendors are actually cheaper cause they can gather up orders,
or for bigger orders, i can get it shipped to relatives crossborder in Germany
where taxation are lower.
But thank you for the tip, your offer applies especially to used parts since there arent many
U.S. junkyards ,plus a private package usually slip through customs easyer than one that
"Dennis Carpenter"all over it...
Sorry for the rantin...
I will go troubleshoot this beast soon, and prob return for further questions.
Beelow -Denmark.
#9
Sorry , i only saw your latest reply there,im on my phone here...
Its hard to start when warm, meaning its very touchy on the pedal, to little gas and it
wont start,to much and it drowns itself.
Stop at a light,and on startup its the same , like its difficult to find the right "spot".
It died on me coming out from a small sideroad,so i made a tail of cars... Not really cruiseworthy yet,but at least i like the looks of it.
Just need a set of dog dishes for this one,..
Its hard to start when warm, meaning its very touchy on the pedal, to little gas and it
wont start,to much and it drowns itself.
Stop at a light,and on startup its the same , like its difficult to find the right "spot".
It died on me coming out from a small sideroad,so i made a tail of cars... Not really cruiseworthy yet,but at least i like the looks of it.
Just need a set of dog dishes for this one,..
#11
Hello anyone..
Ok, so i went over the grounding,and ignition system. Seem to me this
is fuel related.
Accelaration is fine,cruisin is better than before. But i still have a slight miss
when exiting fx the highway, and taking an exit. I brake almost to a stop,and it almost dies
on me when i barely touch the gas pedal,if i step a bit more it comes back.
This is extremely annoying in stop and go traffic,and since this is gonna be a cruiser whale,it really bugs me.
Its a Holley 350,2v std intake. Std '70 351w.
Pcv is not hooked up on back off the carb(P.O. once again..)?
How do i know what fuel level/jets should be?
Ok, so i went over the grounding,and ignition system. Seem to me this
is fuel related.
Accelaration is fine,cruisin is better than before. But i still have a slight miss
when exiting fx the highway, and taking an exit. I brake almost to a stop,and it almost dies
on me when i barely touch the gas pedal,if i step a bit more it comes back.
This is extremely annoying in stop and go traffic,and since this is gonna be a cruiser whale,it really bugs me.
Its a Holley 350,2v std intake. Std '70 351w.
Pcv is not hooked up on back off the carb(P.O. once again..)?
How do i know what fuel level/jets should be?
#12
#13
#14
If the pump has too high of pressure it could be pushing the float valve pin down and forcing fuel through the system and flooding. At cruise it is using the fuel, Slowing down it begins to flood (slight miss), at a stop idle it begins to pool and get richer and richer then, the accelerator shot make it go full rich . Most carbs like between 4-7 psi.
Not sure if the high pressure is normal
It could be also that the float valve pin is sticking. Running, the fuel pressure has enough force to push it down. Once off the force of the float pushes the pin back up blocking the fuel flow.
If the po let it set for long time you may have alot of oxidized crud in the bowl.
Not sure if the high pressure is normal
It could be also that the float valve pin is sticking. Running, the fuel pressure has enough force to push it down. Once off the force of the float pushes the pin back up blocking the fuel flow.
If the po let it set for long time you may have alot of oxidized crud in the bowl.
#15
Ok.
I might need some type of fuel pressure regulator.?
Car have been sittin for some years before(3 years ago)but carb is max 2 years old.
I also believe it is gettin to much fuel...
it is beginning to miss a bit again when drivin , every mile or so it feels like it shuts off/drowns for a millisecond or so, on straight road mostly.
I will try to further inspect it this weekend, and will return after.
Thank you. Feel free to stop by for a brew, should you swing by Denmark...;-)
I might need some type of fuel pressure regulator.?
Car have been sittin for some years before(3 years ago)but carb is max 2 years old.
I also believe it is gettin to much fuel...
it is beginning to miss a bit again when drivin , every mile or so it feels like it shuts off/drowns for a millisecond or so, on straight road mostly.
I will try to further inspect it this weekend, and will return after.
Thank you. Feel free to stop by for a brew, should you swing by Denmark...;-)