VA to CA: 1952 F1 Rebuild (S) Project: Day 0
#16
If the doors are just locked I would try to unlock them by using a coat hanger thru the window rubber. On the 49's if the handle is pushed down the door is locked. Pulling up on it will unlock it. Not sure if a 52 is the same. If you can't get thru the window rubber the gas filler rubber is easy to remove and gives you a bigger hole to work thru. Again as I don't know 52's it may not be the same as a 49. That may just save your hinges good luck. Have fun
#18
I have successfully unlocked my door by sliding an unbent coat hanger up from the bottom of the door and hooking it on the handle... but my truck has no rubber seals around the door.
But looking at the original post picture, the window is down, so the door isn't locked, it's stuck.
#19
#20
I think 48 - 52 doors are all the same except maybe the optional drivers outside door lock.. My inside door handles face the rear.
#22
#23
What a great adventure you are going to have! I finally got my Great-Grandfather's truck towed from my parent's house this past January. I think I'm going to go the "get it running first" route and then tackle the longer and more expensive, extensive restoration after that.
I'm envious of your geography. I can't imagine how wonderful it will be to cruise in that truck in some of the Bay Area's great natural areas. I can't imagine driving it through the city though! Another kind of adventure entirely.
I look forward to seeing your progress.
I'm envious of your geography. I can't imagine how wonderful it will be to cruise in that truck in some of the Bay Area's great natural areas. I can't imagine driving it through the city though! Another kind of adventure entirely.
I look forward to seeing your progress.
#24
Things are moving!
Well the project has kicked off in earnest! I got a shot in the arm from my visitng uncle. Woohoo! Sunday the hood off. Monday family (East Carolina style) BBQ and organizing. Tuesday bought oxygen & acetylene tanks and other equipment, got one running board off. Wednesday more tool acquisition, rt fenders and door off. Thursday/today, left fenders, door & running board, grill, bed, seat.
The door hinge pins were a formidable foe and I don’t know how we’d have pulled them without a smoke wrench. Heat and penetrating fluid and some serious banging with a punch & 3 lb hammer. Probably an hour and half on the hinge pins alone. Most of the front fender bolts had to come off with a cutoff grinder. The running boards are shot, time for new ones.
Working in tight space is not easy either but I have no choice and am even lucky to have this much garage in the city.
I’ll have a few specific questions to ask shortly and pictures to support the questions. I’m not sure yet whether they belong in their own thread or in this one??? Can someone point me on that? I’m assuming a new thread.
Next up: inner fenders, gas tank, cab, transmission.
John
The door hinge pins were a formidable foe and I don’t know how we’d have pulled them without a smoke wrench. Heat and penetrating fluid and some serious banging with a punch & 3 lb hammer. Probably an hour and half on the hinge pins alone. Most of the front fender bolts had to come off with a cutoff grinder. The running boards are shot, time for new ones.
Working in tight space is not easy either but I have no choice and am even lucky to have this much garage in the city.
I’ll have a few specific questions to ask shortly and pictures to support the questions. I’m not sure yet whether they belong in their own thread or in this one??? Can someone point me on that? I’m assuming a new thread.
Next up: inner fenders, gas tank, cab, transmission.
John
#25
Interesting as it has 5* extra cab side hood molding but no bright metal windshield trim .A pic of the heater please & wing windows . Fender mount radio antenna another interesting feature .Try to save & use the original turn signal / parking light lens retainer bezels .The repop units do not fit well . New metal repro lower gravel pans for behind the front bumper are available . One can spend some time repairing that pc w/ the double wall around where frame rails protrude . Running boards are pricey but new ones are the way to go . Plan on around 5 yrs. to get it in decent shape unless you are retired & have extra $$ to spend .A professional engine rebuild is the way to go unless you have a lead on a used replacement engine . Have had the stock truck since '68 when purchased from Grandpa. Thanks .
#27
That was my dad & my uncle working in the 60s to try to get tunes in the truck. The antennae was from a 1952 Ford 4 door sedan.
#28
#29
#30
The good & bad news
Getting started on a project like this, you have to brace yourself for the good news and the bad news. So far it looks like this:
Good news:
Bad news:
Good news:
- no gigantic nightmares that make me want to scrap the truck, whew!
- granddad was a strong believer in nevercease, many bolts turn easily.
- engine turned over with a breaker bar
- angle grinders took care of other bolts quickly
- pleasantly surprised how many parts can be found (not all but a lot! for example, a whole new wiring harness seems like a luxury)
Bad news:
- some frame rot at the back
- leak in the roof seam was letting water in the cab
- right floor pan is shot
- all fenders at running boards need repair
- bed steel rotted further than believed