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Or aluminum antenna grounding wire (heavier - holds bends better when transferring pattern)
Or... (don't ya hate that ;-) ) you can use '65 F100 rear shoes and get self adjuster kits (around $6 -$7 each wheel) and not have to mess around with occasional brake shoe adjustments. (depends on year of your truck)
When researching the various options with a dual master cylinder replacement keep in mind they are not always "plug and play" and must have a full stroke in order to work properly.
What that means is, if they are not setup correctly you may as well have kept the single pot, you will not be able to stop if a line bursts.
Here's the inside of the wheel in case it looks familiar to anyone. Again, 16 x 650 tire, so I assume it's a 16 inch wheel (despite my ruler measurements).
I'd love to hear if anyone has used these wheels with the disc conversion kit and not run into any clearance issues.
Yes, that's a 16" wheel for tube type tires. Sometimes you can get away with running tubeless radials on them, and sometimes you can't. It all depends on how well the rivets seal.
Ya know, with your stated intent to use the truck for around town putts, I personally feel like you'd be much better off sticking with a rebuild of your stock drums, skipping the booster, and adding a dual circuit master cylinder for safety with an adapter. The 1967 Mustang master cylinder is a really popular choice for this. The original drums are no slouch. With everything in good working order, you can easily lock all four tires up in a panic stop. Installing a booster and disk conversion is not what I personally would consider to be projects for beginners. The kits get you started, but ALWAYS require a certain amount of engineering on the fly. If you're not experienced with this stuff, it can be a nightmare. Did I mention that there is also a handshake agreement between every aftermarket swap kit supplier to only provide cryptic instructions with illegible grainy pictures and generic diagrams that cover every make and model they make a kit for? So yeah, there's that too. Think it over.
X2 BlueOvalRage's comments. The only real issue with the stock drum system is is single bowl master cylinder. One line or one wheel cylinder pops and your on your own trying to stop. Also many of the front disk brake kits require relocating one of the kingpin grease fittings. This could involve having to remove your king pins....
Agreed. ^^^ The four drum stock brake setup works fine when it's maintained properly. The dual master should be considered a mandatory upgrade but the rest is more of a preference.
The more you do the more you'll learn that there's a lot of things suppliers 'conveniently' (for them) don't tell you. And then there's the 'good enough for the warranty period' quality. On the flip side just be happy there are parts of any quality available for sixty+ year old trucks. Try to get parts with well known brand names attached when possible and remember that the farther you veer from stock the more you'll have to buy to finish a job.
Did I mention that there is also a handshake agreement between every aftermarket swap kit supplier to only provide cryptic instructions with illegible grainy pictures and generic diagrams that cover every make and model they make a kit for?
HA! Well said, BlueOvalRage (Joe?) That's great advice - thanks!
Originally Posted by bjmayberry2
Also many of the front disk brake kits require relocating one of the kingpin grease fittings.
Yea, I've read about that possibility too.
Having to drill and tap a new zerk fitting doesn't sound like much fun.
Originally Posted by CBeav
The dual master should be considered a mandatory upgrade but the rest is more of a preference.
Yup - that's the direction I'll go then.
I hope it's clear how damn appreciative I am of the support on this forum.
I'm having a ton of fun on this project, but that sure wouldn't be the case if I had to "guess" when I ran into a major question.
I don't want to convert to front discs, but was thinking about doing the dual master cylinder swap with power booster. I believe Mid-Fifty has the booster setup for drum/drum, and it seems relatively straightforward install.
I'm sure there is quite a range of opinions on whether or not the booster upgrade is worthwhile given the stock drums, but considering I want to drive the truck regularly, it's something I want to look at.
Here's the inside of the wheel in case it looks familiar to anyone. Again, 16 x 650 tire, so I assume it's a 16 inch wheel (despite my ruler measurements).
I'd love to hear if anyone has used these wheels with the disc conversion kit and not run into any clearance issues.
Yes I used similar wheels and the two things I had to do is relocate the grease fitting in the king pins...BFH works real well have to get a punch and hit up from the bottom and have to file or grind a little off the calipers Ju at where it rubs.
Before you order a booster, be sure your engine supplies enough vacuum. I speak from experience here, and put the CPP master with booster under the floor in a truck with a cammed up 289. I ended up having to install a vacuum pump for another 189.00, and couldn't stand the horrible noise it made. Sounded like a guy with a jackhammer in the bed, even with a rubber mount system. Ended up going with the mustang master with no booster. This is with a 4 wheel disc setup.
05-11-2016, 03:44 PM
