New to diesels
#1
New to diesels
Hi All!
Just bought a '94 F-350, XL Turbo diesel. 4X4, 166 K miles, new rebuilt turbo, new pullies in the front, new wiper pump/motor. Technically, the engine is a '93 so I might be in the wrong sub-forum so berar with me.
OK, I need to get a master rebuild kit as the truck has serious oil issues! I lose 9 qts a week and it's most likely due to bad rings. Exhaust is whitish but not alot of oil dripping from the pipe and there's no oil spots.
Just today it also started acting like the trans is slipping. It jerked when it shifted, most of the warning lights came on (water in fuel/ ABS/etc...), lost power to the stereo and when it first happened, it wouldn't engage in 'D' so I dropped it into 2. Then it seemed OK. Drove maybe 10 mi then parked it at home.
I figure I MUST rebuilt the engine and a master rebuild kit is in order and now, maybe the trans. Trans fluid was OK when I checked it a few weeks ago.
I read something in a notice for new guys about advertising so not sure if you can suggest places to get the rebuild kits cheap. I've already blown near $1700 on this POS so far.
Thanks guys!
M
Just bought a '94 F-350, XL Turbo diesel. 4X4, 166 K miles, new rebuilt turbo, new pullies in the front, new wiper pump/motor. Technically, the engine is a '93 so I might be in the wrong sub-forum so berar with me.
OK, I need to get a master rebuild kit as the truck has serious oil issues! I lose 9 qts a week and it's most likely due to bad rings. Exhaust is whitish but not alot of oil dripping from the pipe and there's no oil spots.
Just today it also started acting like the trans is slipping. It jerked when it shifted, most of the warning lights came on (water in fuel/ ABS/etc...), lost power to the stereo and when it first happened, it wouldn't engage in 'D' so I dropped it into 2. Then it seemed OK. Drove maybe 10 mi then parked it at home.
I figure I MUST rebuilt the engine and a master rebuild kit is in order and now, maybe the trans. Trans fluid was OK when I checked it a few weeks ago.
I read something in a notice for new guys about advertising so not sure if you can suggest places to get the rebuild kits cheap. I've already blown near $1700 on this POS so far.
Thanks guys!
M
#2
Before you drop the money on a rebuild where you are most likely looking in the range of $6,000...you might want to step back and do some research and investigation....
Find out where you are loosing the oil...is it injector orings, (fuel and oil mixing), is it the oil cooler (antifreeze and oil mixing), or are you leaving puddles on the ground (common issues being oil pan and valve cover gasket/uvch)...Check the blow by by taking the oil filler cap off flipping it upside down and laying it on the filler neck while the engine is running...if it vibrates off then there is not a blowby issue - aka rings are good....if it blows off then there is a blow by issue but it may not be rings, could be loose injectors, head gasket, valve seals, etc... if there is a blow by issue easiest test to figure out where would be to do compression tests...
Light flashing when it jerked during shifting would indicate a possible electrical issues...worn wires that are shorting or some other "computer issue"...
Take the time...do a correct analysis of what is wrong...it will save you from throwing money at areas that do not need it.
Find out where you are loosing the oil...is it injector orings, (fuel and oil mixing), is it the oil cooler (antifreeze and oil mixing), or are you leaving puddles on the ground (common issues being oil pan and valve cover gasket/uvch)...Check the blow by by taking the oil filler cap off flipping it upside down and laying it on the filler neck while the engine is running...if it vibrates off then there is not a blowby issue - aka rings are good....if it blows off then there is a blow by issue but it may not be rings, could be loose injectors, head gasket, valve seals, etc... if there is a blow by issue easiest test to figure out where would be to do compression tests...
Light flashing when it jerked during shifting would indicate a possible electrical issues...worn wires that are shorting or some other "computer issue"...
Take the time...do a correct analysis of what is wrong...it will save you from throwing money at areas that do not need it.
#4
#6
Morning Gents!
Yes, it is an IDI. THE turbo was rebuilt by some company up north, I believe. Cleveland, perhaps.
There are NO puddles of any kind anywhere. No oil on the engine, heads, valve covers, bottom or anywhere. As I wrote, the exhaust IS white/grey.
As far as the turbo goes, the old one was replaced as they (the shop) suspected the oil was leaking through it but alas, that wasn't the problem as it is still going through 9 qts a week. I checked the exhaust pipe for oil but it doesn't seem to be puddling in the pipe or anything.
They did a compression test after putting in new glow plugs and I have 60% on 2 cylinders (one on either side) and approx 85%-100 on the rest.
Thoughts?
Yes, it is an IDI. THE turbo was rebuilt by some company up north, I believe. Cleveland, perhaps.
There are NO puddles of any kind anywhere. No oil on the engine, heads, valve covers, bottom or anywhere. As I wrote, the exhaust IS white/grey.
As far as the turbo goes, the old one was replaced as they (the shop) suspected the oil was leaking through it but alas, that wasn't the problem as it is still going through 9 qts a week. I checked the exhaust pipe for oil but it doesn't seem to be puddling in the pipe or anything.
They did a compression test after putting in new glow plugs and I have 60% on 2 cylinders (one on either side) and approx 85%-100 on the rest.
Thoughts?
#7
Join Date: Mar 2005
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welcome to FTE.
how many miles does it take to loose those 9 quarts of oil?
if you are running 1000 miles a week, it may just be a bad CDR valve.
if you are only running 100 miles a week, it is a serious problem.
also, you need to do a compression test yourself to find out what the numbers are.
60% on two cylinders and 85-100% on the other 6 really does not tell anything.
what are they calling 100%?
how many miles does it take to loose those 9 quarts of oil?
if you are running 1000 miles a week, it may just be a bad CDR valve.
if you are only running 100 miles a week, it is a serious problem.
also, you need to do a compression test yourself to find out what the numbers are.
60% on two cylinders and 85-100% on the other 6 really does not tell anything.
what are they calling 100%?
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