1967 - 1972 F-100 & Larger F-Series Trucks Discuss the Bumpsides Ford Truck

wiring - fusebox replacement

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Old 04-29-2016, 10:36 AM
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wiring - fusebox replacement

I may be swapping in the under-dash wiring from a 68-69 to replace the cut up one wiring harness my 71 and to make it easier to connect the f600 instrument cluster.
The fuse box is the only thing messed up on the replacement harness. It just as a plastic piece busted and is usable. This would be a good time to perhaps improve that fuse panel. Any simple and inexpensive off-the-shelf options one would recommend?
 
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Old 04-29-2016, 12:45 PM
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Those three words (simple, inexpensive, and off the shelf) never go in the same sentence. I've been looking myself and have yet to find anything. Hope somebody out there has the solution.
 
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Old 04-29-2016, 01:11 PM
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Old 04-29-2016, 01:26 PM
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Not exactly painless in costs, but it does look like a definite improvement and potentially something someone of my limited skills could tackle. The next step down for this 20-fuse panel is 7-fuse block and that's not enough.
 
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Old 04-29-2016, 01:36 PM
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NBC Steve over in the Dentside forum replaced his fusebox with a Painful... erra ... Painless box. He has a couple of upgrade threads featuring "Candy Cane", his 4WD 79 F350.
 
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Old 04-29-2016, 02:48 PM
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Looks like kwikwire has wire harness with fuse box. Price for 14 circuit just over $300. Anybody out there using one of these. Instruction look good.
 
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Old 04-29-2016, 02:50 PM
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The EZ wiring harness I purchased off Evilbay, came with a fuse panel, each circuit labeled, and with extra fuses. It was not very complicated to install. If you are looking for just a fuse panel, try some of the marine stores, or the West Marine catalog on line, and you may find one that will fit your needs. Of course, the marine versions may, and probably will, be a bit more Spendy, (if that is a word), but the quality will be superior to automotive versions. Or, at least the price will make you think so. I call Marine stores, Jewelry Stores, due to the prices..

I will check with Allied Electronics, as our daughter is a mid level manager at the Dallas/Fort Worth plant. They are the 3rd. largest electronic company in the world, so it could be a good shot?? You never know...

Baja
 
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Old 04-29-2016, 09:37 PM
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I checked Dell City, the place I ordered my connection blocks, and they did not show anything. Will see what the marine store has. Used to haunt those places when I was redoing a 22 foot Southcoast sailboat.
It's not that big of a deal. Just seems like an opportune time to make an improvement if reasonable.
 
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Old 04-30-2016, 03:27 AM
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I got mine from a 79 F350 in the junk yard. I got the panel cover too, it list which fuse goes to what. I haven't installed it yet. It's just a bigger version of the original. It has 18 blade type fuses instead of glass. That should be enough for most trucks. Just mark the wires before you start cutting your old fuse panel out. Switch the wires over to the new fuse panel, mount it and call it a day basicly.
 
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Old 05-03-2016, 10:38 AM
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A question about removing the existing harness.
How does one disconnect from the three connectors going through the firewall?
Is it just force.
 
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Old 05-03-2016, 10:49 AM
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Originally Posted by hillcountryflt
A question about removing the existing harness.
How does one disconnect from the three connectors going through the firewall?
Is it just force.

Yes just have to get the grommets to pull back into cab
 
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Old 05-03-2016, 11:03 AM
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This is what I went with and also a relay box next to it and for a great price
Amazon.com : Blue Sea Systems ST Blade Fuse Block - 12 Circuits with Negative Bus & Cover : Fuse Block With Relay : Sports & Outdoors Amazon.com : Blue Sea Systems ST Blade Fuse Block - 12 Circuits with Negative Bus & Cover : Fuse Block With Relay : Sports & Outdoors

Also I have two of them mounted. One under the dash and one under the hood next to the relay box. I don't think all the power needs to be loaded under the dash that's why I did it that way and it's a boat fuse panel which = water proof
 
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Old 05-03-2016, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by CrossPlainCrazy
This is what I went with and also a relay box next to it and for a great price
Amazon.com : Blue Sea Systems ST Blade Fuse Block - 12 Circuits with Negative Bus & Cover : Fuse Block With Relay : Sports & Outdoors

Also I have two of them mounted. One under the dash and one under the hood next to the relay box. I don't think all the power needs to be loaded under the dash that's why I did it that way and it's a boat fuse panel which = water proof
Cool. Does one need the negative bus?
 
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Old 05-03-2016, 11:23 AM
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Originally Posted by hillcountryflt
Cool. Does one need the negative bus?
I just grounded it to some cleaned and bare metal next to the fuse box for a extra ground. The more good grounds you have on the body and frame the better electrical current you will have. A buddy of mine use to own a stereo and when they installed high power competition systems they would ground the car body to frame and electrical system at least at 18 points across the car to keep the power flow smooth with the draw that was happening and none of his cars ever has power surges that made any light dim or anything and the systems they put in some cars was just ridiculous in my opinion lol

Also the link I added to amazon should show tons of electrical components. I have purchased all my electrical connectors and such (modern connectors) off amazon and the prices are the best. I personally just look through and get marine items more then automotive because I like my electrical to be water proof. Makes pressure washing the truck everywhere less of a concern
 
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Old 05-03-2016, 12:28 PM
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I agree on the grounds. My tail lights worked better when I ran a ground that was connected straight to ground on battery.
An electrical shop I found on-line called Dell City carries the Blue Seas stuff.
I will see if they have this part number.
 


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